Duffman

Thanks, Arne and Carl, for the feedback on the clear hatch glass!

Back to my earlier comment about clear hatch glass, was this the norm or was the vertical defroster lines the norm on Series 1 cars? I would like to replace my glass and can't find a clear replacement, whereas I can find the vertical defrost-lined glass. Your thoughts?

My hatch glass is heavily scratched but clear, without the vertical lines. I am assuming the glass is original. Have thought of getting a nicer piece of glass with the vertical defrost lines, but keep thinking that I am getting away from the original look. Will replace or get louvers one of these days!

Thanks, Dave, speaking for many of us in need of better gauge lighting, we appreciate your being the guinea pig! I have been looking into different ideas for gauge lighting and this seems like a good one! My order goes out this week!!

They came with the plastic expansion tank, as mine has one.

I will look forward to seeing it, as I live 5 minutes from the auction at Westworld in Scottsdale!

OK, decided to take the car to an auto electric shop to get the dancing ammeter problem resolved. But before I did, I thought I would try one thing to see if it would make a difference. I figured the problem was a bad alternator/internal VM or some kind of ground problem. I had the alternator benchtested before and it passed, but wasn't sure if it was a valid test. I also knew the ammeter would settle down when I turned on the lights and/or fan, so maybe a ground problem existed. I checked everywhere and couldn't find a bad ground, but still thought there was something to this. So, today I attached a large wire from the back of the alternator (a small bolt on the backside) to the body frame to make sure there was not a ground issue somewhere between the alternator and the frame or body. To my surprise, the dancing ammeter is no more!!! I test drove the vehicle and had no issues, and my idle was much better! I am stunned by the simplicity of the solution but ticked off I didn't try this earlier!!:stupid: Thought I would let everyone know that a happy ending did occur and now I can move on to so many other things to take care of ... Thanks everyone for your assistance on this!!! Stephen

Bruce, please let us know how this turns out, the idea sounds like a good one!

http://www.dashboardrestorations.com/ They are in Washington state, check prior threads on feedback.

Don't mean to steal Gary's thread, but what is the wire that is taped to the harness as it comes into the engine bay, in the vicinity underneath the battery? Just saw that and have no idea what it is for. Thanks!

Thanks, Jim, it is a new fan belt.

Thanks, Jim. For me this is a simple solution, as I don't have to search any more for faulty wiring, etc. Now, if this doesn't resolve the issue, I will go back to crying ...

Thanks, John, that was my next solution; getting a new alternator! I will pick one up tomorrow and see what happens!

Per Jim's instructions, I took the alternator off and cleaned all contact points (wire brushed, etc) and put it back on. I found the main ground in front of the battery Jim mentioned (hidden by wire bundle and black paint!), cleaned the contact points up, put a new bolt and washer on and secured it. I double checked the positive and negative connections on the starter and wire brushed again. I started the car and let it warm up, no bouncing ammeter!!! Took it for a drive and it started to bounce around a little (+10 to -10). When I would come to a stop, the ammeter would read straight up, or slightly to the +. Once I take off, it starts moving around again, though not anywhere near as bad as before. It seems to bounce to a constant "beat"; -10 to +10 to -10 to +35, and repeat. When I turn both the lights and fan on the ammeter reads straight up, just fine. I feel I am getting close but still something is still causing a problem ...

Thanks, Jim, I appreciate your patience with an electrical neophyte!!

Thanks, Jim, I am comfortable about the connections around the starter being clean, secure, etc. I will take the alternator off and clean all contacts, etc. Will also doublecheck the white and white/red wire connections again to see if something is not connected correctly under my dash. Will also check the original capacitor on the original alternator and see how it was wired up. Are you suggesting that I place the capacitor on my upgraded alternator casing? Is there another option to creating a back up ground for the alternator, such as running a ground wire from the frame to the alternator itself?

Still battling my problem ... Any other thoughts? Arne mentioned checking the alternator ground, should I run a ground wire from the ground connection on the alternator (with internal VR) to the body and see if that makes any difference? Anything else?? I can't drive my car and it is pathetic to see a grown man cry ... Thanks to all for any assistance.

I have gone through and checked any/all grounds I could find and see. All seem to be fine, though I am not sure how to find the end of the ground on the alternator as the wire goes into a harness. What if I ground the alternator directly to the frame, would that help determine anything? I have checked voltage around the alternator while the ammeter is dancing around, it is consistent but measures from 14.60 to 16.2, and all points in between. I believe that the problem is heat related, as the ammeter is fine until the engine warms up and then it starts dancing between +15 to -15 while parked. I hear a funny whirring noise that goes up and down, can't pinpoint where it is coming from in the engine compartment. When I turn the lights on (while parked, engine running) the ammeter is straight up, no dancing. Once on the road, it dances wildly and will calm down only a little with lights and fan on, though the lights flicker up and down. Any thoughts?

Arne, will doublecheck but I have wire brushed and spray cleaned the connections to the grounds. Will see if I got them all.

Jim - no, I do not have a rear defogger (clear hatch glass) Rxsleeper - the battery ground has been cleaned and firmly connected. Thanks, everyone, for your responses and please keep 'em coming!!

Will check it out, thanks.

My alternator is an upgraded 60 amp with internal VR. Yes, I have Arne's adaptor.

When I start my car the ammeter stays straight up until the engine warms up, then it starts dancing quite often from +10 to -10. Once I start driving the needle will either stay calm or start bouncing irratically when coasting from +45 to -45. When I turn on the lights or the fan, it seems to calm down a little but still bounces. I notice the headlights and interior lights pulse consistently from normal to dim, while the ammeter bounces to the same beat. I had the alternator (with internal VR) taken out and benchtested. Was fine. I checked all of the wire connections and cleaned everything from the alternator to the ignition. I checked for bad wires, replaced one and didn't see any others. I have checked through other threads and only come up with replacing the alternator/VR, but I had it tested in the car and then taken out and benchtested, with positive results. Any other thoughts on what else to check?

The series 1 Z has the differential mounted slightly forward and it causes stress on the half shafts, as well as potential vibration and noise. I believe that anything after 1971 does not have the problem.

Anyone out there have the correct R180 moustache bar and curved transverse link brace for the differential mounting "fix" they want to part with?