rtaylor

And I know the seller. He is trustworthy, so what he has said in the ad can be relied on.

Chris. This is a link to their website. Afriend took parts from his street rod for chroming. They did a great job on the chrome. So I want to see how they do on the yellow cad plating. I spoke to the guy and he said that he does individual batches, especially on the small stuff, because it is easy if you are not careful to loose some of the smaller washers, nuts and screws in the tanks, such as the little hose clamp washers...so he pays more attention to the contents. We'll see. http://www.artisticsilverplating.com

I'll take a picture tomorrow night, I won't get home until late this evening. It may be hard to see the olive color, what with it being such a dark shade, but I'll try. My horns are in the car. Come to think of it, I have to look in my home computer, but I may have a picture of the horns on my work benchwhen I took them out for cleaning.

Restore? no. Replate, Yes. Or paint from Eastwood. Plenty of info on this, just search cadmium. Personally, I have just located a service that I plan to use in Long Beach that specializes in automotive restoration replating. I hope to pull some parts this weekend and take them in to see the quaility of their replating.

Hey all. My 71 has the original horns. They are a dark olive drab.

Stephen. I want by Elvan's shop today and it is indeed closed. The phone number is disconnected as well. However, there are still plenty of Z cars inside and the yard is a bit tidier. I spoke to the neighbor. He said that Elvan has some personal matters to attend to but would be reopening in December. I trust him with my car and hope that he does reopen.

Elvan lives in Pomona Stephen, I've dropped off parts at his house before. Maybe he is working out of his garage...

And just about 50 miles for me as well. I think that I will go check things outl. Should be very interesting and fun. I bought one of the autographed Mr. K books from them. Can't wait till it shows up in the mail.

I have the standard drums in the back Daniel. I tried the ramp thing, as I figured that was what was going on, but just couldn't grab those threads. Heater hose should work well. Thanks.

One question for the guru's. The e-brake cable rubs on the sway bar, no way around it, either on top or below the sway bar it still rubs. Should I be concerned with the outer protective sheath on the e-brake cable being worn away? I was thinkning of getting some type of rubber hose, slitting in down the middle and clamping it on the e-brake cable with tie wraps or some other type of fastener.

Thanks for all the information. Carl, I sort of did things backward from your suggestion. I have new Falken tires and new KB struts. All new bushings in the front, control link tension bar, etc. I installed the sway bar this weekend. Had to remove the Moustache bar to gain access for the bracket r&r. I used MSA endlinks, but had to use a smaller spacer, i guess the size is about 1/2". The 1" spacer was too long, couldn't get the bolts threaded. Now for the good part. I took it out for a spin Sunday afternoon. Daniel, what a noticeable improvement this addition makes. I would say I get about 40-60% less body roll, although its hard to put a numerical value on it. Even felt the difference when going through highspeed non-radical turns. I had it up to 100 through some four lane highway roads in Chino Hills. I still don't push it to the limit, as I am not well versed or trained in highspeed manuvering in any car. I would hate to lose control and wreck the beast... Front sway bar will be next. I keep all the stock parts I replace in case I ever want to put it back to completely stock.

Did you flatten out the stamped works in the cap or just go over them Arne?

You car really looks good Arne. The wheels look great on it. Where did you get the center Z decals that fit the Eagle caps?

I sure hope he doesn't close Stephen. He is a great resource and a heck of a nice guy. I better check in with him, haven't done that for awhile. What a collection of parts cars he has sitting there, last time I was at his shop. Must have been over 20 cars...

Is Upland to far away? Elvin at Z Car Specialties is a great mechanic. He rebuilt my motor and installed a new clutch for me. Great guy and knows Z cars inside and out. 909) 981 - 1074. He is on 9th street just west of Grove.

Hi Daniel. My front sway bar is stock. That's great advice. I need to see how it will behave. The car is not a daily driver (29,383 miles on it now) but the original roll was noticeable when I went tearing around cloverleaf onramps. That's about the extent of my wild and crazy driving style. My car never sees the rain. I have heard what water can do to these cars... In fact, this will be the first non original dealer installed item on the car.

Thanks for the info Ron. Hoping to feel a difference when I get this hooked up.

I am picking this rear sway bar set up on Monday. All it needs are the end links which I think I can get from MS. With this kit I will not need to weld any tabs or drill holes in the floor to install it. Can anybody confirm that this was the BRE manufactured kit? Looking forward to the new anti-roll feeling that should come with the install. It doesn't look like the install should be too difficult. Thanks

John: I think that the ones available in Japan are around $125 made out of fiberglass. And then there is shipping costs to be added, so figure what, another $25 for shipping. And if a bunch of them were ordered, pricing would come down. So in order to be economically viable, the people you contact should come in below that number. The fellow that I bought mine from has done business with that company in Japan that Kats mentioned. They could always be contacted and see what type of price point is available... Another question on mounting the splash pan. The part of the pan that lies centermost to the motor has two holes. For anyone that has the pan already mounted on their car, is there a special rubber washer or something that goes between the pan and the crossmember? I have seen a few used splash pans that have elongated holes in those places from wear due to movement.

Not quite LA, But Elvin in Upland at Z-Car Specialties 909) 981 - 1074. Excellent work, Did my motor, great job. Does everything I don't know how to do or don't want to do.

Thanks All. I think I will go with the silver/gray matte finish. Here's a picture of the splash pan that I just bought. I also heard from the guy I bought it from that someone is making fiberglass replicas.

It was a taste dear on the purchase, especially for a used one Arne. I have been wanting one for awhile now. Looking back at my last post, seems I have trouble spelling powdercoater. I'll have to find out what size bolts hold the thing on and see if Nissan has them in stock. After I get the answer to my questions, I'll post some photos when it is done. My powdercoater has a minimum $80 charge so I'll through in some other parts with it.

Hi All. I picked up a used splash pan for a 71 in decent shape. It appears to be gloss black on the bottom and silver or gray on the side that faces the engine. Is this the original paint scheme? I am going to sandblast it after some minor panel straightening and I wanted to get it powdercoasted. I don't think that a powdercoaster can coat two different colors on the same piece. I want to stay original as possible so that may preclude powder coating. Or if those are the original colors maybe I can powdercoat it all silver (or gray) and then paint the bottom side gloss black with some rattlecan paint. Will paint stick to powdercoating? What do ya'll think? Thanks.

I have a 71 that had the black carpets that were faded dark gray in spots. I sprayed mine with SEM Landau Black and used a fingernail brush to work the stuff in. The carpets look almost new, no issues of coverage. Its been two years since I sprayed them. No new fading that I can detect. IIRC the label on the spray can said that you could use thie stuff for carpets. Hope this helps. Wil beat me to the punch. But I did not have the trouble with it gouping up at all. Maybe you had a bad batch Will? Did you use Landau Black?