rtaylor

Arne, that is quite bizarre. My first car was an MG 1100 as well. A red one. Quite minimalistic but did seat four.

And mine are black as well Arne, they've never been removed.

Arne. Excellent! The car looks fantastic. The rims look really good on her as well. I know you are jazzed!

If you PM me the address of the lot, I can pm you ownership information. I have a database with that information.

Finally got some time to work on the problem. It was a little chore to fix, but that is what three day weekends are for. I had to remove the AC unit from inside the car in front of the squirel cage. In order to do that I had to disconnect both AC hoses under the hood and pull them through the firewall. What had happened is that the cable had loosened up. A quick adjustment and tightening of the clamp was all it took. Lever moves freely now. Next I removed the glove box to get at the top screw on the squirel house in order to pull the squirel house and peer inside at the flap, just cause I was there. As you mentioned E there is foam on the inside of the flap to seal it against the housing. I might as well replace this stuff as it is disintegrating while I am there. What type of foam should I use? I went down to Ace and they have two types, open cell and closed cell. I bought both. Finally, there are two ac grommets on the firewall where the hose passes through to the interior. Do you think these are still available. I would like to get new ones WIAI. And one more question. Stephen probably knows the answer. There is a solid core silver colored bare wire, maybe 14 0r 16 gauge coming from the drivers side and going over the glove box. What is this for?

I looked at Bob's gas tank this weekend. It is as clean as the rest of the car. And black it is.

Motorsports Auto carries them.

It was an electric"supercharger" powered by if I remember correctly, a makita cordless drill, or some such device.

And if you look close enough the second picture shows me sporting the club t-shirt.

Thanks for the heads up Andy. Good pictures. They even wrote a little about my car "....29,000 miles" And when I clicked the number it came up with photos of it. Good lookin out... What a great collection of Zs that day.

I saw that car a WCN last month. As good as they are the pictures don't convey how nice this car looks. Worth every penny in my book.

Bob: on my 71 I just unplugged the red wire on the ignition switch, no more annoying sounds. Don't know if its the same on a 77 though.

E. This just happened this weekend, It was working fine on Sunday, all the way to the left with no problem, smooth action. I guess I had to pay for all the fun at WCNs. I went to move it this morning from the middle detent and no workee. So I need to remove the fan housing. Now, dumb question, is this located under the air conditioner housing on the passenger side? Thanks. I'll detail the repair once made.

Hi all. The uppermost lever on my heater control panel will only go to the two right detents, can't get it to go all the way to the left on my 71. Will this be a pain to fix?

And as far as I am concerned just about the coolest thing this site has to offer is an administrator that devotes as much time and energy to make sure this club has become what it is.

Will. I am taking my Z. Its about 18 miles from my house. No need to use a trailer

Don: I have two air cleaners. I sprayed the one in the worst condition with the high temp Chevy orange engine paint after prep work. Then I compared it with my good one. Unless they are side by side one would never know the difference. Of course, if you are a stickler for originality....or need a concourse car, then get the $28 can. Otherwise, save some money.

Chevy engine orange is a pretty close match. You could also order a can of the stuff that is mixed to the original paint code from Les at http://www.classicdatsun.com/

I was just looking at the piece of plastic that covers the hand throttle slot. It is very brittle and has broken on one end. About 1/4" x3". What are you guys using to replace this? Looks like it is some type of thin plastic. Thanks, as usual.

All the bolts go into the block. Take the cover off. The broken bolt MAY come out if you get get some vice grips on it if there is enough of the bolt remaining that will be sticking out of the block. Easy outs don't work that good. I had one snap off in the block and had to drill it out , which wAS A MAJOR pita when I had to do the same thing you are going to do.. Be careful putting the cover back on so that you don't pinch the head gasket. Loosen up the front pan bolts which will make the job much easier reinstalling the cover. Search "water pump removal" and you will see what I am saying.

And down here in the Inland Empire temps are supposed to reach the mid 90s this weekend. The joys of Southern Cal. Now I need to start working on the air conditioning in the Z. But, this post is probably not a morale booster for our northern friends.

I have just spent the morning calling all over the country to various Nissan dealers, including Coutesy Nissan parts etc. Nobody has them. Will, you are a genius. Spray electrical tape it will be.

Thanks guys. I didn't see the prior thread Tomo posted. I think I'll give Courtesy a call, but at $109 per set, that is pretty darn steep. I wonder if the nissan set they have have the original plug numbers like your originals Arne. I'll post once I call them and inquire.

I stopped by MSA on the way home from work today. I needed to pick up a set of NGK plug wires for my 71. I have yellow Taylor wires (great product name!) on my car now, but wanted the NGK wires to swap out for the MSA show this month. The Taylor wires are the only non stock/Datsun/Nissan item on the car now. Guess what? The NGK wires are now electric blue, they no longer make the gray wires. Needless to say, I didn't buy them. Anybody have any ideas on where to pick up a set of NGK gray wires?