wfl_colorado

3rd house up on the right?

So I emailed the owner and she said it had NOT been repainted and has been parked for about 2yrs w/ a several new items. Fuel pump, distributor, wires, plugs, points, etc. Would like to go look, but have too many projects as it is and don't want to be tempted... Bill

Maybe I can call in sick, but I am booked w/ soccer again on Oct 7th. I didn't see anything on the zccc calendar though. How did Steve's car look? Thanks for rubbing it in, as I would have really liked to have been there.

Hey now! I wish I could have gone, but too many kids w/ too many soccer games on Saturdays. Maybe next time. Look forward to the pictures. Bill

Nate, Thanks for the info. Now all I need is for you to come to Colorado and give me a hand. Sounds like a huge project. Something I can maybe work on over the winter while the car is parked in the garage! Tx, Bill

What does one of these overhauls cost? I have a stock 73 and keep wondering what is or isn't worn out. I am also assuming that nothing has been replace, so most everything is probably worn out, right? I don't need anything fancy since I just want a daily driver to/from work. I am assuming if the struts aren't leaking, them and the springs are fine, but all the bushing, etc probably need to be replaced. Bill

I might be interested in trading up if the price was right. My only confusion on the post was that Aurelius was looking for a 71, but at the same time had access to 100's. So it appeared to be a bit odd to me. Bill

Thanks Todd! Now I have to climb under and take a look at mine. As I recall, the band that fits of the top of the diff didn't seem to be even side-to-side. Need to look a little closer now that I know what I am looking at. Bill

Resurrecting an old thread.... Does anyone have a picture of this front diff mount? I can't picture it as I am at work and I think I might have this issue. I thought it was the u-joints and replaced all 4(not the ones on the drive shaft) and the car still makes the sound. Especially when I start to back up. Tx, Bill

Sounds more like a vacuum leak to me. Do you have a picture of your setup? Is the vac advance plugged into the front carb? What did you do w/ the rest of the balance tube? If it is running that poorly how did you sync the carbs? Just curious. Bill

Mine has one, but is not connected. Under the car right in front of the gas tank on the passenger side. Bill

Hey Brian, Where are you located? Looks like a good starting position to me! Bill

I just switched over to round tops recently since I knew little about the flattops. The flattops will work fine if adjusted right. Of course it all depends on what you want out of them. You should be able to find a set of roundtops for around $100(plus rebuild kit costs ~$100-150 from Ztherapy), unless you have the ~$600 to invest in a nice set from Ztherapy. Don't know the mechanic cost since I did the work myself. Not too bad and you can get a lot of help from this site. Let me know if you need help and I can guide you a bit. Bill

johncdeere, That is what I was thinking. Why did they talk you out of it? What was the reasoning? Tx, Bill

What is you setup now? Stock 71 w/ stock SU's?

Hey Darrel, I might be interested in that, I am in the Springs. I will check the details. Bill

Have you check the that manual pump actually works? If not, it is pretty easy. If so, does the fuel filter seem to circulate fuel while you are cranking the car over? If not, you might have a fuel line leak. I had this issue and while the pump was working there was an air leak in the fuel line that was not allowing fuel to get to the carbs. h

Beandip, I have seen several messages where you state "you need the thicker insulators". Why? I have SU's on my 73 w/ the thin insulators and it seems to do okay. What is the issue w/ thin vs thick here? Just curious. Tx, Bill

Drill w/ a buffer and polishing compound. The make various type/shapes of buffers for your drill that should work. Will take some time to do though.

Just use standard 3-in-1 oil from any hardware store. Use they will work, but depending on temp they may not work like they are supposed to.

If you end up w/ too much oil, all you have to do is raise the piston to the top w/ your finger and the excess will drain off into the engine w/ no harm done. Once you do what Arne and Enigma said and you get the car started is when you start changing the idle screws along w/ a flowmeter to get the carbs adjusted just right. That is the basics, but there is a lot more detail on the website or on the Ztherapy video.

Dang! I wish I had seen and/or thought about this a month or so ago when I had my dash apart. What a fantastic fix to an every present issue!

An Audi or a BMW.

Stock L24 in a 73 240 w/ SU's. The exhaust at the muffler is rusted through and the muffler is just hanging. No header that I know of, but would like to look into one. Tx, Bill

I am in need or replacing my exhaust, resonator and muffler. Anyone have any input or ideas on this? I know I can just go to the muffler guy and take what they offer, but wanted some input from the z experts. Any info on magna flow, vforce, etc. Or do I just go get a simple exhaust and muffler setup? Tx, Bill