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Hey guys, This is my first car I've ever worked on. Im 20 yrs old going to Cal Poly. Bought the car in November 2005. Its a 3/74 260z. Didn't run good, flat tops, suspension was gone, brakes were gone, and the paint was faded and oxidized. How does she sound? The engine clip has a large knocking you can hear, I know its cuz the air lid isn't on and the hose that connect up to the bottom on the back plate makes the noise. http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-4896065304379408623 http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-4802243828980094343

Wow, thanks! I will check all that out. I can't remember if it did it while clutch depressed or not. But I'll let ya know.

I'm all urethane, brand new the past couple of months, and tokico adjustables with AZ car springs.... its pretty rough! .....................But I like it!

Hey guys, I bought the 74 260z in November from a guy who had it on jackstands for 5 years. I rebuilt suspension and swapped to 71 SUs. Took it for a drive today and went to McDonalds about 2 miles. Once leaving, I noticed 2 noises I didn't notice before. 1) From the transmission tunnel a sort of constant wooooossshhhhhh noise. Could this be due to transmission fluid? Haven't really checked it out yet, might be a good idea to check it. 2) From the rear, maybe differential, a constant low whine I'd say describes it. Also, haven't check any fluids in that. Other than the fluid possibility, are there any other things to check out? Can hear a know, might be u joints, when accelerating kinda hard. Anything will help a ton!

I have a 260z rear with the overriders I might be able to part with... its good shape, but needs to be bent about 5 degrees. I'll take pics if you like. email me at cloutierjoe@gmail.com

Thanks, I'm searching here and there, but trying to gain some other opinions while I search.

Hey, stopped down at a junkyard on the way home and found a 89 and 92 300zx both with their differentials... 5 bolt output shafts... also found some late 80s and early 90s 240sx's with differentials also. This is whats needed for V8 swap and LSD right? Any info on this would help a ton! Thanks

Hey guys, I've already just replaced the oil pressure sending unit 3 months ago, but the oil pressure usually reads around 40-60 when the car first starts, then as it warms up it goes back down to about 0-10, but I looked down today while driving and it was still there... The sending unit is new, is there anything else could be wrong? Car has been sitting for a couple years, I bought it from the guy in Nov and have been doing suspension and SU swap. What else affects the whole system? I know the oil pump would affect it.... but are there relays and/or fuses, or wires to check out?

HAHA thanks, I took out the old ones and put them back in a while ago.... didn't take too long, but I'm assuming the urethane will be nice and thick.

I searched some more and found the split of 70-73 and 74-78 so I guess I need 74-78.

Hey, I need new steering rack bushings, the company I ordered from, PST, sent me 2 thin bushings instead of one thick and one thin. I've search the common MSA, Black Dragon, Courtesy and their years only go to 73 240 then consider 74-78 260 and 280 the same part number.... does this mean I should get the 260-280 kit since my car is an early 74 260? The pictures for the 240 shows 2 different sized bushings, none show the other years so I don't know if they are the right kit to buy. Thanks

where can I buy wheel spacers? no stores in town have them...

I'm getting new ones soon.

I got the new Toyota s12+8 calipers with the vented rotors on lst night. The slotted rims dont clear the caliper, probably by 1/8" or 1/4". But my question is how much of the wheel stud is needed for safety? Right now, without the wheel spacer, the wheel studs barely stick out through the holes in the wheel and the lug nuts probably grab about 1/2" of thread. Are longer wheel studs needed, or longer lug nuts, or is it safe?

Hey, Chaning to the Toyota brakes tonight, and in taking out the cotter pin for the nut on the spindle, it broke. Any fixes for this? Can I just use another thin piece of metal, zip tie, anything ideas? Thanks

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/D287BFDB-BEC8-4DF1-9647-DAAF2075EF6C.htm

GOT IT RUNNING! Thank you Colorado for having the same issues and solving both our problems and helping me along the way.

That line on the last picture is a Canister Purge Line. Found that out in the Haynes manual page 68 figure 3.76 number 8. Why am I the only on with it there?

Hey guys, car wont start after the SU swap. No fuel getting to the fual lines going into carbs. Haven't tried using starter fluid yet, and battery has been losing its power, so gotta get some starte fluid and a battery charger. Heres a link to page 4 with some pictures from all angles, http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2228239/4 let me know how it looks, and if I messed anything up. Also, last pic has a hose that runs with the fuel lines and looks like it might end at the carbon canister, anyone plug this up or do away with the whole line?

Bump for me not getting any gas either.

I took a pic of the hose. Its a 74 260z. Its the 90 degree bent hose in the middle of the screen coming up from the balance tube., it goes into the heat shield with the fuel.

What have people done with the line that runs from the balance tube along on top of the fuel lines to the Purge outlet on the carbon canister???

Got the floats all set, almost got carbs back together.