aarc240

Update to rear kit links issue. quote/ Thank you for your interest in Whiteline sway bars. You are right on the money with you assumptions, our "replacement" type sway bars are a direct replacement for the OEM sway bar and usually only come with the D-bushes to allow fitment, usually the OEM end-links are to be re-used. The "Kit" type of sway bars are for vehicles that do not have a sway bar fitted as OEM, therefore they are supplied with all the components required for the fitment. I hope this helps you. Regards, Wayne Cunningham ----------------------------------- Technical support Go Flatout with Whiteline Automotive * Email: wayne@whiteline.com.au /unquote I would get back onto Whiteline and ask them for a full and detailed explanation of just how they expect the kit to be fitted without links. Probably worthwhile emailing Wayne direct, at least you won't be dealing with a salesman!

Interesting reply from Whiteline. Checked their catalogue and listing for a 240k is Front: part BDF33 type R diameter 24mm price code C Rear: part BDR5 type K diameter 18mm price code C and the notes at the bottom of the page explain the types as R = Replacement & K = Kit now if BDR5 was type RK then I would accept the use of the original links as that means 'Replacement with kit' (their description). So they obviously know that it is NOT a replacement and thus SHOULD know that links are not there in the first place! Not good marketing!!

The KAAZ unit is available 1 way , 1.5 way or 2 way. Put a 2 way in an early R200 under our KHGC110, just about indestructible is my opinion (FWIW !!). Tried the Torsen with seperate axles in Dana 44 front end in a Jeep Cherokee, took less than 12 months for the 400 Chev engine to destroy it.

Get onto Whiteline for those link rubbers - they should be in the kit! Most likely someone goofed in packaging. Updated - looking at the pics of the kit I don't see any vertical links either! These and the rubbers most certainly are NOT on most cars as they don't usually have a factory bar (at least not on the '73s)

For info, you can source a gearbox with the same ratios as the GT-R from a 260Z and get a bigger clutch from a 260Z 2+2. btw, first gear is actually 2.905 (yeah I know, picky picky!) If a C110 is 4 or 5 speed manual it should have a 3.90 R180 as should an early '73 auto. Later autos got the 3.54 R180. I've just pulled another 3.90 from an auto!

Kept this totally seperate so as not to confuse TOO much. So far CAMS (the FIA recognised sanctioning body) is heading down the path of old. It appears that the intention is to freeze the Historic and Tarmac world to what it was in 1973/74. That way the main interested parties within CAMS can go on running their $200k replica Porsches without risk of being beaten by any plebian types in their modified Japanese cars. A very different story to New Zealand. MOM, I for one would love to see Group 5 cars accepted. It would then be feasible to finish building our 240z where at this time we have abandoned the project as a waste of time and money. Very annoying that we can't even run the triple Mikuni carbs and manifold I still own which came from a works rally 240z back in 1973!

The HLS30 280Z as marketed in USA is a 260Z shell with an L28E engine, the S130 of all stripes is what we call a 280ZX. While working on a co-located base I got to see both the 280Z and the 280ZX in two seater LHD and thre is very little in common between them. Yes there are HLS30 280Z's in Australia, at least two that didn't go back to USA from military personnel at Pine Gap (Alice Springs, Northern Territory) and one from Nurrungar (Woomera, South Australia). One of the NT cars wound up in Victoria, Steve Gee had it at one stage I believe, the other stayed in NT until a friend and I ratted the rusty hulk for the few things left usable, the one in SA went to Canberra and AFAIK is still there in LHD. Interesting that the rusty hulk (early '76 HLS30) didn't have the big ugly bumpers so your guess is as good as anyones where that was supposed to be marketed! This DOES NOT mean that is all that got here, just that these were ones I was personally aware of and physically sighted! Yes the S130 is a 280ZX anywhere but Japan where it is a Fairlady 280Z. One of these (a HS130J) also got here with an American serviceman who had bought it new when stationed in mainland Japan. AFAIR that went on to USA and yes it was RHD!

Hope you are not planning on any rough roads 'cause these style camber plates tend to slip when jarred hard! I've gone the other way with slots, reinforcing plates and cam adjustment discs on the inner end of the lower arms. If you want to see how it works find a manual (or a car) for ANY Chrysler Australia Valiant and check out how they did it on the inner end of the upper arms. They never gave trouble, even in the outback. Only snag is having to modify instead of bolt-on.

Expanding on my previous answer. The fronts to give a reasonable match with the 280zx rears are: Toyota 4WD 4 piston calipers (direct bolt-on to late C110 struts) Peugeot 504 disks (DBA272) with 5mm spacers, redrilled to mount on 240k hubs. Left brake hard line slightly reshaped on right and vice versa. That's all! Struts MUST have had 270mm solid discs originally - mine were from a C210. I figured that most braking effort was on the front so as long as enough was present on the rear to keep the car straight without locking them then it should be OK. So far experience has shown it to work well although there is some sign that pad wear on the rear is considerably higher. I would have preferred a bit more pad and slightly larger piston for the rear but couldn't find anything just right with parking brake included. Probably should have hung a small extra set of cable operated calipers on Jaguar style for the parking brake!! Master cylinder needs to be at least 15/16". The stock 7/8" results in far too much pedal travel to push enough fluid to the 4 piston calipers and also gives a soft unpredictable pedal feel. I'm using a 1" Patrol part for a firm short pedal and find it's much easier to control (modulate) the brakes with it.

If you are running this on the road then use vacuun advance. Lots of carbs and a hot cam are not insurmountable - connect EACH carb to a common 'rail' from which you then take the distributor vacuum. If there is too much interaction, put a short lenght of small bore tube in each line from the carb to the 'rail' (the restriction acts much like a one way valve). No vacuum advance really will kill low down performance!

Hi Kent Been down this road and there is nothing I found that is a straight bolt-on. 240z has a different distance from the wheel mounting flange to the backing plate mounting face so although the disks will fit, the caliper mount bracket is unusable. I have used 280ZX rear brakes with 'Annette' style calipers. The 280ZX also supplied the longer wheel studs. A custom pair of caliper mount brackets and custom handbrake cables. Not yet investigated but a possibility is a C210 coupe I have access to which looks to be near identical in the rear end and already has 270mm disks. It really depends on what use you have in mind. Our C110 is a 'regularity' class competitor so doesn't need huge brakes. 270mm by 20mm ventilated front disks with four piston calipers and 270mm solid rear disks with 'Annette' calipers have proven adequate. HTH

Is that a fibtrglass bonnet??? THAT would interest a few people here to lose some weight.

Thanks for that Kent. I was interested in the eBay one but couldn't get an answer on the part no from the box. Photo showed a small connector similar to that on the headlight switch (about 20mm by 15mm). Our '73 KHGC110 000302 has a ten way connector about 35mm by 14mm. It was still tempting as rewiring to a new/old connector isn't hard. Part no's both starting with 25540 tends to indicate they may well be minor variants on the same base hardware.

Can someone please look up the part number for the indicator switch assemblies used in the C110 and C210? It appears that C110 1973 are different to C110 1974 - 77. No idea what the difference might be to a C210! Unfortunately the C110 and C210 models are not covered in the various CD parts book copies I have. thanks Art

Can someone please look up the part number for the indicator switch assemblies used in the C110 and C210? It appears that C110 1973 are different to C110 1974 - 77. No idea what the difference might be to a C210! Unfortunately the C110 and C210 models are not covered in the various CD parts book copies I have. thanks Art oops, forgot where I was! Reposted under general discussion.

A few bummers with this one. It needs at least a pair of original front seats and a set of door trims (the ones in it are not). One of the cars near Gawler is nearing registration & club use, would be a good 20/20 car (20 feet at 20mph) but at least it is pretty much all there and mainly original. btw, a good 240k with some work (eg Webers, headers, cam etc) will blow one of these away, and is more than a match even with a 240z twin carb motor. A GTB is significantly heavier and that 2 litre 6 is only rated at 127bhp in stock form! A bit like a Formula Ford, very quick if you can keep it on the boil but hard to do just that.

exactly what size is that bit that you do have? 73 parts car is an auto so may not provide what you need but I can check.

Lachlan, I would agree with Miles. The fuel return is most likely the culprit, and assuming you are using a 240z fuel rail set on the motor, blow it clear both ways with high pressure air. Then blast air through to the tank with the filler cap OFF. If you haven't got the 240z fuel rail set on the engine, go get a set. The 260z is identical with addition of heat shield wrap. You MUST have the fuel rail set connected to both the supply pipe and to the return pipe with the Hitachis as per a 240z or you will always have trouble with them. Have you considered an electric pump? The wiring is already there in all GC110 harnesses. About 9cm from the alternator wiring branch towards the firewall you will find a short stub of two wires, one black and one black/white. The black/white has a wide spade connector which you will probably have to replace (it's a bastard size unique to Nissan or maybe Mitsubishi Electric) and that is powered from the ignition and fused. The black is ground. Use a low pressure pump, 3.5psi maximum, particularly with Hitachi SU's. Facet make a decent one at around $80 new. Genuine SU pumps are available again but count on $270. The OEM Mitsubishi Electric part for the 240K GT hardtops delivered here in Australia is still available but is over $300. Questions? Feel free to ask - our 240K GT hardtop has a similar setup to yours judging by your description, apart from the electric pump. Miles, got it in one! You need a GOOD pressure regulator allowing excess fuel to dump back to the tank. Fixes the fuel puking Webers right smartly. This is just like a modern injection system, allowing full flow to the carbs but keeping the pressure under control. A good ratio on a race car with triple Webers is 10mm supply and 8mm return lines with a regulator having a flow rate of 70 litres per minute or better. Art

Very tempting! The sort of data needed to prove 'factory stock' for Historic Registration in South Oz. Unfortunate that so many don't seem willing to ship internationally.

If anyone has a disc in Oz and is prepared to package real carefully, I have the gear to do a digital copy, complete with de-popping, hiss reduction etc. Naturally that can be fired through the 'net for anyone to burn on their own CD burner. Same goes for any other rare soundtracks of the cars from the earlier years.

OK, tried a 350z Track with extensive mods for tarmac rallies. Needs 400mm disv brakes to have any hope of surviving long, we cooked a set of six pot Brenbos on 340mm discs in less than 40km. Could use a LOT less weight (like a 400kg diet would be real good). I never thought I'd see a 30mm front bar, but that is what ended up on it together with a 28mm rear bar. Yes. it was finally heading in the right direction and with some more tweaking could have been an awesome weapon but there was just too much bloat to be worth continuing. A two door luxo mobile it is, a GT it really struggles to emulate and a sports car it sure isn't!

If you really get desperate, the parts can be sourced from an Australian car and shipped. Smart thing there would be to ship only what you can't source locally. I suspect it would still get a bit expensive! Have a look at what is available through the auto dimantlers (or whatever they are called you're way). Several Japanese cars have taken a similar approach in recent years. Another option is any heater/aircon (even truck) that has an inline aircon to heater type system, particularly if the case is fibreglass (glass reinforced plastic, or GRP). Amazing what you can do with a cut and shut on sections out of that sort of system. The trick there is to use thin cardboard to mock up the sections needed to get 'from here to there'. DON'T try using plastic sheet without soaking a sample in acetone first (if acetone attacks or softens it then GRP resin will too). Masking tape can be used to hold it together (don't get carried away with thick layers, use JUST enough to hang it together). When satisfied punch lots of holes about 6mm in dianeter through the cardboard (actually you CAN do that first, it's just a bit harder to work with). Fibreglass and styrene resin can then be applied over the cardboard, inside and out. Once set, cut away any untidy bits, add more GRP until you have a case sturdy enough to do the job. If it doesn't fit spot-on, no worries - just grind on it as needed and reapply GRP to get exactly what you need. Same thing to 'pretty up' the shape. Lay on a thin skin of body filler on any areas visible after installation and sand to smooth things out. Spray on s coat of rattlecan satin black paint (preferably urethane or epoxy) to make it all look the same. Presto, one 'factory look' ducting/casing system that very few people would realise wasn't standard. If you are careful you can do a similar job on a plastic case - just use a heated old butter knife to weld and smooth the plastic. Experiment on scrap to find how hot the knife needs to be - usually not very hot! Scraps cut from the case will provide filler material for welding. Not as easy to get a 'factory look' but it CAN be done. Often this method will still need aluminium straps to be added to carry the weight. If that is a route you take, just make sure you do it outdoors with a gentle breeze to sweep fumes away. Some of the plastics used in cars are pretty toxic when heated or burning (as a fireman I have good reason to be careful). How did I learn those tricks? Converting Chev Corvettes to right hand drive - and they are a piece of s*** to do anything with. Of course, if you are REALLY good with sheetmetal work you can do what one slightly crazy friend has done for his '69 Mustang - build it entirely out of thin alumium sheet, all hammer formed and TIG welded together. It's the ONLY heater/aircon I've ever seen with a polished aluminium case!!!

oops - forgot this little snippit. C210 (L24) has a cast steel bracket mounting the compressor. R30 (L24E) has an almost identical appearance part in aluminium.

Just checked out the C210 vs C110 aircon in parts cars. Miles is close - you MAY need the genuine C210 bits under the dash as the C110 looks to be physically incompatible. That said, the aircon evaporator is an add-on tacked onto the heater system. KHGC110 (240K GT) as a comparison has exactly the same heater as non aircon C110, evap is tacked on where the blower was and blower is now further toward sidewall. The heat control lever now trips a switch when on full cold to engage the compressor clutch (no extra aircon switch on the dash). This seems to have been a popular solution with japanese manufacturers about that time. Service Bulletin Vol 289 "Introduction of Datsun 180K and 240K GT (Model C210 Series)" dated November 1977 shows 1. the heater only version has a convoluted tube between the fan assembly and the heater case 2. the aircon evap goes in place of that convoluted tube Interestingly, the C210 indash controls appear to be identical to C110 !! Maybe later C110 aircon bits will fit and look the same ?? Art