aarc240

It appears that the part no's needed are 32862-E9300 boot - control lever (all transmission models) -- this is the small lower one that keeps the crud out of the shifter bushes & pivot pin. 74963-50102 boot - control lever (all body types) -- this is the one that seals off the floor. Maybe you want to also try for either 96935-R3700 boot - console ( to 3/75 ) OR 96935-R3760 boot - console ( from 4/75 ) -- this is the 'leather' bit that goes in the console I'm pretty sure that 32862-E9300 boot is the same part as Z cars and likely most all floor shift Datsuns through the 70's I'll check back in a day or so for your wants. Art C

Will do. I really should get a replacement or two for my car too. I'll let you know asap. Art C

Kent, if it's any help I can try Main North Nissan in Adelaide. They've filled some weird requests in the past - like Nismo conrods for an FJ20! Art C

Forgot to include that the plating should extend well past the steering box outer profile (after all, you're trying to spread the load, not increase the stress at the edge of the box). Same with the idler.

Apologies for the tardy reply - been playing with the 'other' toy (gravel navigational trials 240z - under construction) All parts are fabricated either in my own workshop or for some specialised stuff, in a friends heavy engineering shop. Dang, you wouldn't believe the bearing range and variety he's got on hand!! The lower arms are now 30mm diameter 3mm wall steel tube with fabricated ends and wrap-around reinforcement tying the inner (pivot) end to the tube. The first ones were 25mm diameter 2mm wall and both bent in a heavy landing. Not good. No patterns kept of the reinforcement plates and crush tubes but it's pretty simple to work out. Use some thin cardboard to mock up the plates & then fabricate out of 18G mild steel sheet. Sounds thin but it effectively doubles the wall thickness. You need plates on both inside & outside of both left & right rails and they should be stitch welded on, not fully perimeter welded. Crush tubes go up into the frame rails from underneath, attached (welded) to 16G sheet plates extending 1/4" past the stabiliser bar brackets. The top of the tubes butt against the underside of the top wall of the frame rail, suitable holes are drilled in the frame rail to allow bolts to pass right through the bracket, crush tube and top wall. I used 8mm grade 8.8 high tensile bolts, hardened steel washers both top and bottom and 'Nyloc' self locking nuts. btw, drilling through from the bottom to take the tubes is 'interesting' as you're going up through the original weld nut and they are hard. hth

An R35 over a KPGC10? Not a hope in hell once they dropped the RB engine - after all, a GT-R is supposed to have a fire breathing straight six!. Good to see the C10 where it belongs, Alan.

Being on the other side of the world makes this a bit hard but this is my take on it. Engine - L28's and RB's are pretty hard to source in UK I believe so I'd look at Rover V8's. More parts and expertise available locally, it's light and can produce good power on carbs or FI. Add a blower and hang on. Gearbox - Getrags etc are more readily available your side, look for suggestions from experts on the engine you settle on. Rear end - at least an R200, you'll blow any R180 with drifting. On the other hand, if you want something really psychotic, stuff a Jag V12 in there and add a Paxton blower kit. Yes, a Jag will fit but the radiator goes in front of the support panel and a Davies Craig electric water pump is needed (you don't want to know how I found that out). Do some fishing around in wrecking yards, there's some surprising stuff out there. Some of the European based gear has real potential with fast parts available close to you. Look into BMW's etc. Art C

Stick with your 8, it's gonna be so different anyway you might as well make the knockers get their knickers in a real twist. You might want to look into a pair of alumimium heads for the Mopar along with as many other alloy parts you can use / afford. Iron block alloy head Mopar is surprisingly light - only some 30 pounds more than the L6 was anyway. I've always been intrigued with the possibilities represented by stuffing a Cadillac 502 into something like a K - one of the lightest 8's plus HUGE capacity. Just not enough of those engines get into Oz! Art C

Apologies Craig, I wasn't ignoring you, just a bit busy lately and hadn't looked at the forum. Really not sure but let's just say a good source of spares (that's what I told the missus anyway). It's actually too good to dismantle and scrap so it will likely stay under cover in case we really crunch the GT. In fact the front panels are so good (as in straight) that a small amount of rust repairs on fenders and under the hood will provide nice masters for molds. Just went and looked at it again - the boot / trunk lid is equally salvageable, doors could be saved with relatively small steel patches in the bottom corners.

Former owner (Andrew) was on the conservative side when describing how bad / rusty the panels were. The shell is actually surprisingly good apart from the roof. The hood he described as rusted underneath actually is a perfectly straight replacement panel, still black Nissan primer all over and the rust is only about 50cm patch on each front corner of the frame. Matt is right, the front fenders are easily repairable too (as are the doors). And I nearly didn't bid!

Another sicko!! More seriously, do you have any early imperial gauges? ie MPH speedo, lbs/sqin oil, F temp. Kent needs those for his GT and I've found both my spare oil & temp gauges are faulty. I can and probably will make up a set for him but then we won't have a full set for our GT just in case we ever wanted to return it to original. Not that that is too likely so he's probably going to wind up with the only documented original Aus 240K GT left. If we weren't half a continent apart I'd seriously consider doing a trade with KH simply because ours even has the original engine with it (which his has lost).

Just needs a complete roof replacement. No problem, get one of those from Nissan tomora! Pretty appropriate number plate "SHT"

Our early 20's daughter reckons it's just wild!

Just watch out for the inlet tract length. Aside from clearance of carbs to body (not usually a problem) this affects two areas you should consider. SK Sanyo is about the longest tract I've tried, gave good mid range up (3000 on) and plenty of room for decent header shape. Redline is a little shorter, power band started around 3300 with SAME carbs on SAME motor. Didn't create any header problems either. Unbranded manifold tried looked pretty similar to the one in the first link, MUCH shorter, required different headers to get clearance and the power just fell off (like died!) below 3800. This was all with same Webers, same exhaust (after the headers), rather aggressive cam, big valves and a 3mm overbored L28. A smaller engine is going to want more revs before it gets things flowing in the manifold and will exaggerate the charateristics. Hope that saves someone else the wasted time.

440k came up with this one: So, can anyone shed some light on a 240K GT coupe, with number KHGC110000170? It has a compliance date of 12/72 and the letters GT stamped above where it says "seating capacity" Anyone know anything further?

Apparently the ADR plate is adequate as we have them make Datsun model KHGC110 type coupe GT chassis no 000280 positively identifies the car and provides sufficient description. The 240K additional descriptive information on both the car and the sales documentation is evidently covered by the KHGC110 on the plate.

Dash facia depends on which one you want. ie, with brake circuit & parking brake warning lights in the lower right corner or not.

Geez, really goes to show that if you are determined enough just about anything can get on the road legally! Good on you.

Here's one: KHGC110 000302, ADR Compliance Plate dated 2/73 bearing the description 'DATSUN COUPE GT'

Kent has come up with this one, and I also believe it's a good idea. Keep in mind that we are trying to document those cars actually and provably sold by Nissan in Australia as either HGC110 or KHGC110 Datsun 240K GT's. Considering that by 1973 when the first were delivered: 1. the fitting of an Australian Design Rule Compliance Plate was mandatory and 2. the description on that ADR Plate was required to describe both the make and model it is a fair assumption that each and every one of those cars will have an ADR plate which describes the car as a Datsun GT in one fashion or another. If the car doesn't have a plate carrying that description then there is no way of proving that it originally was a GT unless the original delivery documentation complete with receipt describes the car as a 'Datsun 240K GT'. Nissan doesn't have any records (or so the Australian arm says). The Australian Government doesn't have any breakdown to model level in their records. If anyone has access to Nissan Japan and can get documented evidence of what was shipped, when it was shipped and whether it was really sold as a GT (and not debadged or rebadged as a GL in Australia) then we would like to hear from you. Assertions that this or that happened are not acceptable in this context. Under Australian law if Nissan did not identify it as a Datsun 240K GT then it is not a Datsun 240K GT regardless of badges etc. Interestingly, my daughter (a law graduate) has pointed out that it is actually a breach of Australian law in all States and Territories to even advertise it as a 'Datsun 240K GT' without having either an ADR Compliance Plate with the correct description thereon or being in possession of the original delivery documentation including an invoice, receipt or bill of sale also bearing the correct description. Apparently we can state that it is a 'Datsun 240K GL, sold elsewhere as a Datsun 240K GT'! Let's see if we can build an accurate listing of these cars and maybe put to rest some of the fables about them.

AFAIK it doesn't matter whether it's a 4 door or a 2 door - elsewhere throughout the world they were all GT's. The GL badging is unique to Australia and we owe that to rapacious insurance companies. So I guess that makes a GL really a GT rebadged by Nissan! It makes a genuine Australian market Nissan ID'ed 240K GT a pretty rare bird but not really something significantly different (although our legal system distinguishes between them).

Re differences in consoles: Auto has a different opening & frame for shifter. Early console, either manual or auto, can't safely be used with GTX style power window switch panel & switches. Later console raises these a few mm for adequate clearance to the tunnel. There is at least one example of a really early version not having a rear demister switch at all (but then the car doesn't have a demisted back window either!).

If you like running it in comp, they have 16 x 10's Superlites in the same offset too. btw, you can get some variation in offset by talking to Performance direct. They've built me some oddball Superlites in the past. Thought I should add this: Superlites (like all Performance wheels) are manufactured to Australian standards. Lot's easier to get past registration/engineering plus insurance doesn't have a problem (as long as they are told about them). Watanabes of recent vintage seem to be OK but early ones don't have the safety rim bead just inboard of the tyre bead seat and are just plain illegal.

As others may be interested to see differences too, I'll attach pics here. Background on badges are solid deep blue almost blue/black like the one on eBay. Fortunately I scored a good unmolested set on one spares car because the ones in use on our road car have been 'restored' by a 'professional restorer of great experience'. Yeah, right!!!! Front and rear badges are diecastings, side badges are metal (stainless steel) pressings for some reason. Centre consoles are identical to early GL parts. The basket weave vinyl on the seat is not quite a perfect match for the original but is very close. You now have a dash cluster & facia panel - PM me. btw, these pics are all a couple of years old. The car has lost most of the unique bits since although I have stored them.

Also on eBay: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140168964749&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:AU:1123 except these are C210 (unless later C110's got those o'seas). Original early '73 badges are quite different. Note the deep red in the upper edge groove which I am told was all round the badge.