aarc240

Get some accurate measurements. Diameter of rotor, centre hole size, depth of 'hat' from back of rotor to wheel mounting face. They MAY be the same as HGC210 (Oz market) in which case new rotors can be sourced from DBA, Brembo and others. Rear drums - inside diameter, width of operating surface, depth of drum and diameter of centre hole. I've heard of 240/260Z drums being used but suspect that offset is different so backing plate from 260Z would have to be adapted too.

Huh?!? Kent, I'd do some measuring myself. C110 and C210 both use 130 mm diameter springs and fit either upper seat. In the normal sedan version the springs are only distinguishable by the slightly larger wire diameter of the C210 (12.8mm vs 12.5mm). Sure, there is supposed to be a difference in free length (384mm vs 382mm) but I've yet to see ANY that are within 2mm of specified length even new I have C210 struts with C110 strut tops in a C110, could have used the C210 tops as they also fitted both the spring and the body. btw, 200B and Bluebird strut tops also fit the strut, spring AND the body of a C110. I haven't researched it but would not be surprised if the part nembers were the same! I get the feeling either the adjustable strut tops are meant for adjustable coil seat conversion with much smaller diameter springs, the wrong strut tops were supplied inadvertently or someone is about to try emptying your pockets.

Aussie sheilas are worth chasin' ANYWHERE! Yep, we'll sure help just so's you guys stay over there an' leave our girls to us.

That 'look' gets more and more tempting!

I'm no expert on these models but what relationship does a 240C/280C have to a C211?? I always thought the C's were a completely different platform. Also, at a guess a 280k is possible but I've never heard of it! What happened to the C210? I'm fairly sure I've seen ID plates carrying that model designation but could be confusing the ID plate with the ADR plate.

skubz pm sent thanks

Last price I had from Phil Lew was A$270 for the full set of flares. Prices not yet known for the spoilers or grille, Phil is in the process of making the tooling for the moulds. Send Phil an email, he's a nice bloke and will be happy to help.

Assuming you are talking about a hardtop, not a 4-door. Phillip Lew Challenge Fibreglass P/L 525 Burke Road, Hawthorn East. Victoria 3124 Australia phil@melbpc.org.au Shipping could be expensive from Oz!

At the risk of a dumb suggestion, how about this: 1. put the lights back in the front (just the mounts, buckets, rims and lamps) 2. either adapt the existing blue 'covers' or make new covers that clip onto the mounting bases. 3. forgot the original trim and grille 4. put small aftermarket indicator / parking lamps down in the lower front sheet metal so they are visible through one of the body openings. You should be able to make it look very close to the current appearance when the covers are on. btw, off-topic but... on your ZG is there anything in the ID plate or the chassis number to positively identify it as a HS30-H? I've always been curious about that because the HS30 cars arriving in Australia have nothing to prove they are or are not HS30-U. As I don't have the original dealer delivery documents there is no legal proof that our HS30-U is anything but a plain base HS30! Thankfully, our KHGC110 has an Australian Design Rules plate issued by Nissan (Aust) P/L positively identifying it as a GT.

Couldn't agree more and that sure isn't being 'snobby'! For just those reasons we love navigational rallies and regularity class in larger events. You don't like the great Prince of Darkness? Can't blame you so I'd suggest having a look at Cibie. We don't consider them as good as Hella H4's but they do look more period. Hellas have pretty flat glass and look a bit out of place even on a C110. For driving lights (if you ever figure that you need them) try the old Lucas S700 driving lights with replacement halogen globes. That was one product that they got right and they actually look like they belong on the early 70's cars. Surely someone has access to a set of outer trim surrounds (Miles maybe?).

Sure did read that bit and you're right. btw, I wasn't having a go at you. The 3 core radiator is no guarantee of improved cooling (which is why Ford stuffed the Galaxie radiator into all RPO83 XA GT's for the bigger surface area rather than adding another core layer). Curious that you are having issues with a rotary too! I've finally licked the problems we were having with the young fella's RX7 series 2 13B turbo. Wound up scrapping the PO fitted heavy duty radiator (4 core!!!!) and used a two core aluminium cross flow with two 12" electric fans in a custom shroud. Reckon the nose came up half an inch! You can't draw a parallel on the input power to a stock fan with an electric - a lot of the loss is parasitic drag because of the (necessary) belt tension. To get meaningful figures you have to look at the air flow rate at the speed the fan is going to operate at. In the case of an engine driven fan it slows down just when you don't want it to - at low speeds in traffic! At that point most engine driven fans flow cosiderably less air than a suitably sized electric which doesn't care what speed the engine is doing.

Craig, you are spot on. There is quite a range of fans and clutches on L6's to suit the various body types. I suspect that someone may have fitted an L28 Patrol fan/clutch assembly to Jim's engine somewhere along the line. That one is around 20mm deeper than the 'normal' L24/L26 unit, presumably because the same Patrol body was fitted with the physically larger diesel also.

Jim, stick with your electric fan rig. 14.5" on a 15.27" radiator is a pretty good match. If you want to improve on that then set the fan up about 20 - 25 mm away from the core and enclose the area around the fan to the edge of the radiator with an aluminium sheet shroud also spaced 25mm from the core. Why do you need a temperature guage that has a range you will never use at the top and a range at the bottom that will only ever be used as the engine initially warms up? Let's face it, if the engine isn't over 140 degrees F then you shouldn't be revving it hard and if it's over 220 degrees F then you better find out why real quick. By my calculations that requires a range of just 80 degrees F. Peter, a 12" fan on the stock radiator in a 1600 and then all electric fan systems aren't any good because that combination overheated?? Come on! Even little crapboxes with 800cc engines run fans that big! Just to put electric fan systems in perspective, of the current crop of new cars available in Australia just 0.7% have engine driven fans. Manufacturers don't put things in that cause recalls, maintenance issues etc so it is very probable that electric fan systems can be considered satisfactory if the installation is thought through sensibly and installed in a workman like manner. Am I a convert on electric fans? You bet & I've been running them since the early 70's. Properly installed they have handled loads such as a 4.3 litre 6 Pack Chrysler running at 5000+ RPM on a 43 degree C shade temp day in central Australia without overheating issues. Crikey, an 18" unit coped with our 400CI Chev powered Jeep Cherokee even when crawling through sand and rocks! Datfreak, yes it will help the motor in response and fuel. A 16" six blade fan takes around 17 HP to spin at 5000 RPM. That's one of the reasons car makers have switched.

Couldn't agree more on the damage incurred in historic racing over your side of the world. Have a look at http://www.classicadelaide.com.au/ca/index.htm for a better idea. Sure, that's a bit far to go but there must be similar events in UK and Europe. Even tarmac navigational events would be great fun in a car like that. Only snag I can see is you would need to source and mount a second seat plus install some decent headlights. It would be a shame not to be able to use the car as it was originally intended.

Does it really matter about C10 vs C110?? The spirit and interest is there and they really are both Skylines regardless of local badging. So what is the plan, keep it as-is or add all those heavy bits like trim and bumper bars etc? Quite a few will be interested to hear / see the adventures of this little beastie.

Aftermarket 510 rear springs are going to be too soft unless they are a LOT stiffer than even the 'Safari' springs. Since roadster springs are like hens teeth in Oz we have little experience with using them. It sounds like the stock roadster fronts would be pretty reasonable under the rear of a C110 and maybe the comp's would work for a REALLY stiff C110. Rear shocks have been reasonable with Oz market Monroe Gas, much better with Koni double adustables. Haven't tried Bilsteins (yet). You would need to ask King Springs to get a reliable answer on the rate.

You're right of course. If you don't have a GTX-E unit I found a way to get a good result, thanks to Alfadog starting it off. First soften the plastic covering with paint stripper and peel off. Careful use of a hot air gun also works. Wash the plain aluminium panel with warm (not hot) caustic soda and immediately rinse with lots of cold running water. Wipe the panel end to end with either a coarse 'Scotchbrite' abrasive pad or 500 grit wet rub abrasive sheet making sure that at least the final wipe is one continuous motion from one end to the other. Clear anodise the panel to seal it. Comes out surprisingly well.

A bit more than you asked for but here's the wiring. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270012128575&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:AU:1

Anyone wanting a panel for a GT-R replica, check this one out. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270012128830&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:AU:1 It is supposed to have come out of a 1976 C110 but it doesn't have the two warning lights for PARK BRAKE and BRAKE in the lower right corner. Just like a JDM unit.

Spring rates not wheel rates. The only Factory Service Manual (FSM) I've ever seen that included wheel rates came from Ferrari. The leverage ratio is nearly 4:1 on the 240K

FSM says soft suspension 8.25 turns, 257.5mm (10.138") free length, installed height 200/617 mm/kg (7.874/1360 in/lb) hard suspension 7.75 turns, 253mm (9.961") free length, installed height 200/612 mm/kg (7.874/1349 in/lb) To translate those, soft suspension springs are 600 lb/in and hard suspension springs are 646 lb/in Industrial Springs P/L in Adelaide (Aurora) do the rears at 680 lb/in in the shorter GT length. I think (but not sure) that the 510 springs are smaller diameter and more than likely softer. 280zx are relatively soft. How much are you going to save going that route???

Alfa, There was one of those 4-door hardtop Cedrics in Canberra when I was just starting with our Gov't. Either black or very dark red (not sure, just don't think it was actually black). Diplomatic plates so presumably Japanese embassy and more than likely went back. Who would have wanted one of those things back then!

Not wanting to hijack this thread but of interest to many. The SAE Standard J1100 definition of a coupé is a fixed-roof automobile with less than 33 ft³ (0.93 m³, 934.6 L) of rear interior volume [note that the number of doors is not mentioned or even relevant]. Calculated rear interior volume in a C110 two-door is considerably larger so technically it is not a coupé. Using the terminology of it's era (still applicable really) a two-door sedan without pillars was a hardtop, with pillars it is just a two-door sedan. So, a 240K 2-door is really a hardtop

Just to confuse the issue, HS30 011692 doesn't have the rear heater, the notches in the plastic trim, the console switch OR the provision in the wiring harness. Then again, the rear glass is also only 4mm thick with rubber to match. HS30-H might be able to shed some light since it also has the 'optional' seat mounting bolt holes.

Here and there I have come across references to strengthening the rear suspension arm on the C110 but no details. I have yet to simply bend one without a crash and am curious about what is the supposed weakness and where the failure area is. Sure, they bend when you hit something going sideways but then there's usually plenty of collateral damage too. Can anyone enlighten me ?