naviathan

And who says a Z only holds 1 passenger. Car pooling for people who love their cars. And the Team Japan Ralley car never finished the race.... Why is my driveway moving? Must have been a long night. "How tall did that sign say the overpass is????" "Hey Bubba! Watch this!"

"Mission Impo Z ble"

Looks like a good start, but I think who ever won it paid too much.

I completely understand your point and I fully believe you get what you pay for. I just think that most Z Car guys aren't going to build a $30,000 racer. Most, but I'm sure there's a few guys out there with deep pockets. I honestly hope I'm one of them one day and at that time I will be looking at KAMEARI parts for sure. Unfortunately though most guys with mostly stock setups for daily driving and occasional track use aren't going to spend the dough on such extravagant parts. BTW, the website looks great!

http://www.zhome.com/rnt/Scarab/Scarab.htm

Scarab was an aftermarket company for Datsun Z cars. Basically, you by the car from Datsun take it to Scarab and they would drop in a 350 sbc, body kit and more and you'd end up with one bad Z.

No offense, but at those prices, go buy the webber stuff from http://www.racetep.com and put the rest of the money into the engine where it's needed most. I don't mean to be an a$$, but Kameari's prices are insane, I don't care how well known they are.

Well, they wouldn't have to worry about the ice anymore....

No, no need for the platinum, regular copper core NGKs really do work the best.

Everyone's right about the standard NGK plugs in a Z. Before you go regaping those iridium plugs though, DON'T!!!!! If you try to gap iridium plugs you will crack the ceramic. That tiny little iridium tip isn't strong enough to take the force of a plug gapper pressing the ground electrode out, it will give and crack the ceramic around it. Most of the iridiums usually have a warning on the box telling you not to regap the plugs.

Also, could be low pressure. Sometimes if the pressure is right on the edge it will run for a bit then shut off randomly. I chock it up to finicky pressure switches in these old systems.

I have a tip, make sure your rubber dampner in the pulley isn't separating causing the outer pulley and timing marks to move. Happens a lot with these old engine.

SEM Trim Black

Wrap the fuel lines in insulation to stop vapor lock. That's what it sounds like you have happening.

Nice, the forks look beefier than the standard 5 speeds, not to mention the steel syncros.