naviathan

And who says a Z only holds 1 passenger. Car pooling for people who love their cars. And the Team Japan Ralley car never finished the race.... Why is my driveway moving? Must have been a long night. "How tall did that sign say the overpass is????" "Hey Bubba! Watch this!"

"Mission Impo Z ble"

Looks like a good start, but I think who ever won it paid too much.

I completely understand your point and I fully believe you get what you pay for. I just think that most Z Car guys aren't going to build a $30,000 racer. Most, but I'm sure there's a few guys out there with deep pockets. I honestly hope I'm one of them one day and at that time I will be looking at KAMEARI parts for sure. Unfortunately though most guys with mostly stock setups for daily driving and occasional track use aren't going to spend the dough on such extravagant parts. BTW, the website looks great!

http://www.zhome.com/rnt/Scarab/Scarab.htm

Scarab was an aftermarket company for Datsun Z cars. Basically, you by the car from Datsun take it to Scarab and they would drop in a 350 sbc, body kit and more and you'd end up with one bad Z.

No offense, but at those prices, go buy the webber stuff from http://www.racetep.com and put the rest of the money into the engine where it's needed most. I don't mean to be an a$$, but Kameari's prices are insane, I don't care how well known they are.

Well, they wouldn't have to worry about the ice anymore....

No, no need for the platinum, regular copper core NGKs really do work the best.

Everyone's right about the standard NGK plugs in a Z. Before you go regaping those iridium plugs though, DON'T!!!!! If you try to gap iridium plugs you will crack the ceramic. That tiny little iridium tip isn't strong enough to take the force of a plug gapper pressing the ground electrode out, it will give and crack the ceramic around it. Most of the iridiums usually have a warning on the box telling you not to regap the plugs.

Also, could be low pressure. Sometimes if the pressure is right on the edge it will run for a bit then shut off randomly. I chock it up to finicky pressure switches in these old systems.

I have a tip, make sure your rubber dampner in the pulley isn't separating causing the outer pulley and timing marks to move. Happens a lot with these old engine.

SEM Trim Black

Wrap the fuel lines in insulation to stop vapor lock. That's what it sounds like you have happening.

Nice, the forks look beefier than the standard 5 speeds, not to mention the steel syncros.

I respect faith, but doubt is what gives you an education. Wilson Mizner

Winning bidder has a history of classic Datsun buys. Looks as though he's a collector in the US. I think it's in good hands.

That's incredible! At first I thought that was a starting bid and the seller was crazy, but damned look at the number of bids!

Try adjusting the choke as it bucks and see where it smooths out. More than likely it's either getting too much or not enough fuel for the cold start. But really it is just the nature of a carburated engine when cold. The fuel air mixture on a manual choke is very difficult to keep straight. With electronic chokes they slowly release as the engine gets warmer keeping from getting too lean or too rich.

You set the timing at 0 and you're wondering why you have a problem? Never worked on a car before have you?

Wish I was local. I want an L24 crank and head for a project engine.

The manifolds will bolt up. The only problem I think you'll run into will be jetting. Because of the larger displacement the carbs will need to be rejetted and tuned to match the engine.

The crank is out of a 1983-84 Maxima Diesel. THe Maxima Diesel was a 2.8L Diesel inline six. The block was identicle to the L28 with the exception of the deck height which was increased to hold the long stroke. The crank out of these blocks (Also known as a V07 or LD28 crank) has approximately .25" more throw (that's my measurements, sorry don't have a micrometer) than the stock L28 crank (AKA P30). Unfortunately this fantastic stroker crank has been NLA from the factory for a very long time and attempts to have it reproduced have come up empty or over priced. One quote was $1600 just for the crank and there would have to be more than just a one off sale. The rods for the stroker are from a L24. The L24 rods are shorter which is necessary due to the longer throw of the crank. The pistons are out of a 240SX KA24 4 cylinder. They have the right pin height and size and their 89mm, 3mm up from the stock 86mm 2.8L pistons. The supposed best block for this setup is still a matter of debate. Many have said the F54 because of it's stiff cylinders from added webbing and better cooling, others have said (and I've not seen this verified) the N42 block because it's thicker around the cylinder. With a .120" overbore thicker walls would be better, but I've yet to see any proof. I have both block torn down in my garage and I didn't see any noticeable difference in the cylinders after pulling the freeze plugs out of either one. I went with the F54 for my project though because stiff cylinders are strong cylinders and the added support has been documented for the F54. Hope this is helpful.

Why are they always in CA? For once I'd like to find a nice clean 240Z in NC.

Hehe, I am my own tranny jack as well. I'm sure it's amusing for bystanders to watch...