naviathan

The site zpizzaman20 posted will help you ID your tranny. If it's a 5 speed I'm sure it's probably the one that matched the 81 engine. There is a stamp on the top of the bell housing, but unfortunately it's not a traceable number. I've run into this problem before trying to ID a tranny. It's come down to having to know what year vehicle it came out of. Especially with the ZX trannys as there's an A and B box that vary slightly on the internals, but are identical otherwise. Wlcome to the world of the Z. Not everything is cut and dry here unfortunately.

77 280Z - $2000 plus about another $1000 getting her going right 79 Fairlady - $450 it's pretty rusty, but I think it's salvageable. 81 280ZX - $2000 plus a 6 hour drive and just the necessesities to keep her running good.

26, although I feel a lot older here lately.

Take the time and coat it well in baby oil. Keep that beautiful dash clean and moisturized at all costs. I'd love to see a crack free original dash in my Z. Alas I'll be patching and covering mine though.

What issues? He'll have a lower a compression ratio which won't do anything but loose power. Given the great flow numbers from a P90 it might even out so you'd be getting nothing for doing the swap.

Search seats on the forums (i.e. hybridz.org, zcar.com, zdriver.com, zraceproducts.com etc..)

There's only one company making blanks for camshaft suppliers now and that's CWC. Sorry but in today's world the best cam is the one you've got reground to the specs you want..

Why do you need special tools? I did mine with plain old wrenches and feelers gauges. Just the basic stuff that came in my craftsman set.

Agreed, the stock crank pulleys have been known to break the rubber dampner and shift the pulley around causing the timing marks to line up incorrect.

With dash lights it's usually the dimmer switch. Pull it out, clean it with some contact cleaner, spary it really good with compressed air and make sure everything is tight and clean the re-install it.

Nice work...

Good call as well. I don't have anything Datsun any earlier than 1977 so I can't say, but I'm curious as to whether or not this guy is pulling the wool on someone.

That was my thought. Anything imported into the US that was built in 69 was either a test car or would have been very low in the numbers and possibly hand stamped at the port to conform to US title procedures. Anything is possible. However number 490 I would have expected to be a 1970 model.

Hmmm, so far we've seen post 1970 plates. Has anyone seen the 1969 plates?

Probably because the insurance company looks at actual collector's value and not what the owner has into it.

It will fit. The wiring harness were typically the same they just didn't use the connections for the options you didn't have.

The MAP setup is easy. Typically what you do is run a balancer tube between the runners and use vacuum line to run that to a vacuum tank. From the tank you can hook up all your accessories and sensors that require vacuum. This topic has been and/or is being discussed on several other forums as well. It's usually best to keep the injector as far away from the valve as possible to give the fuel time to atomize. Welding in or making a bung right behind the throttle mount is common. Top End Performance has a tripple throttle body setup for sale and their prices aren't that bad without the engine management. You could also send them questions regarding their setup and how they over come certain problems. Fabricating and adapting things like this can be a lot of work. Good luck!

That's beautiful. We have a sign posted in our office that says: When a US Marine Sniper was asked by a reporter what he felt when shot an Iraqi the sniper shrugged and replied, "recoil".

Seafoam time. Sounds to me like you just need to clean out the throttlebody and the intake. Cleaning the intake and valves is easy with Seafoam. To clean the throttle body though, pull it completely remove the rubber that you can and dip it in a can of parts cleaner for 15-20 minutes then scrub with a tooth brush and blow clean with compressed air.

Sadly, the people who buy them restored never appreciate them as much as the person that did all the work.

If you don't want to change anything in the head the MN47 isn't going to be the way to go. It's a good head, but needs work to make it really fun. The 3.9 and 4:11 rears are going to increase your jump off the line, but decrease your top end and gas mileage as you'll be turning more RPMs than with you stock rear. You will feel the difference with the 4:11 though. It will be a launch you can truly feel. So long as you keep your cooling system clean and working properly you shouldn't have any worry about temperature.

Good call, awesome responses. This is one for the archives.

Keep us updated on this. I'm curious what it is, just in case I run into the same problem.

That would be my concern is making an uneven runner. Grinding a little off the top corner of a motor mount, so long as it's not a heavy weight supporting area won't hurt.

The manual is probably TnA right now. That's the address for it when it becomes available again.