BadDog

Thanks for the update! I ended up getting a used Crane Hi-6s off of Ebay. I don't notice any improvement in performance, but I was just looking to get a cleaner burn anyway. I did have lots of problems trying to get the tack to work with it though. Crane's own tach adapter did not work either. I think I ended up using my old MSD one but its been so long since I did it that I would have to take another look... Did you already return your Digital HP?

Yes, if you look at the MSD Diagram, the Crane box has the same color wires for the same purposes. So black (-) from Pertronix is the trigger, and the tach adapter Red is spliced into where the Pertronix Black hooks into the Crane White. The other end of the tach adapter gets hooked up to the "lonely" black/white from the tach i.e. NOT the one in the harness that is paired with the Green/White

Update: I tried wiring it according to the old diagram someone made for the MSD 6a with Pertronix on a Z. It worked!

I bought it specifically for the multi spark feature... I hear what you're saying about the spark being really long though, I guess if nothing, that's an improvement. If I turn the rotary switches to 0 0 (diagnostic mode) then yes multi spark is off and the tach works fine. I think I've attached the Hi-6s manual (hard to tell, I'm using my phone). Thanks in advance? :-) 9000-6320_.pdf

Ok, 73 240Z, original style distributor with Pertronix I. MSD box crapped out on me a couple years ago, but I wanted multiple spark again. Picked up a used crane Hi-6s. Got it wired up per Crane instructions, works but the tach reads high at idle (like 2000+ RPM, and when revving higher starts going higher, then drops, then jumps. Never stays at what sounds close to actual RPM. I tried the leftover MSD tach adapter i had (#8910), no dice. Ordered TachMatch tach adapter and am getting the same result. If I wire either one according to the old Crane tach adapter instructions, the car won't start. Moved the adapter red wire to connect to the green/white, car will fire but won't run. Connected red, green/white, black/white, plus Pertronix red, runs but tach is still wonky. The red on the Pertronix was originally connected to both the green/white and black/white. I've attached a diagram of how it is hooked up right now. I am out of ideas.....

Thanks for the additional info, good to know!

Thanks chickenman. I had read about the Hi-6s too, but it sounds like you need a tach adapter sometimes. Some people say not for a 73 like mine, but I vaguely remember people saying the same thing about the MSD 6A and I ended up having to get one for that. I think I'll keep an eye on eBay for a while, I didn't think about looking for a used Hi-6s....

Yeah, I don't know what's up with the second web site. I found it from the pertronix home page. I think I tried the link a few days ago and it didn't work yet, and now it does. I think some of their other products have their own domain names too, some home grown, others acquired. There's not much on the Googles yet, just their own press releases etc. I think it just became available very recently. Maybe "more ignition" because it does multiple sparks all the way to redline? I found an interview on YouTube of one of their people at SEMA, and he talked about it's development and "proprietary software". Again, I'm considering it for when I scrape some spare cash together. Their Ignitor works great, and I am very weary of MSD now leaving me stranded somewhere :-\

Here's what I ended up fabricating out of some sheet steel from Tractor Supply: Works OK, but I may try to come up with a better design in the future. I also Plasti-Dipped it before installing it along with some epoxy:

Has anyone tried this on their Z yet? My MSD box crapped out on me 2 years ago, and I went without it last year. Luckily mine failed between parking my car in my garage and trying to start it the next day. I just don't think I trust it enough to justify paying for it to be repaired. These Pertronix boxes look to be very new, and I can't find much info on real world installs. Based on my positive experience with their Ignitor II, I trust them more than MSD...

Do you have any pictures of this repair? I've used panel bonding adhesive before, so if having another shop weld it again doesn't do the trick (or if I can't get in to one), I assume that you only used the self-tapping screws where for the two spots that wouldn't make holes in my paint, correct? ;-)

Yeah, I have zero welding experience, and no access to equipment. But thanks for the detailed answer. Between yours and the other "find another shop" answers, it tells me that the welding I had done wasn't so good and that's probably why it failed. Maybe he was trying to prevent damage to my paint work?

This isn't quite urgent enough for the Help Me! section, and IMHO falls between body & interior, so I'm posting it here. The welds that held my hatch support to the body failed. They gave way clean, the metal still looked OK, so I had a local body shop weld the support base/mount back in place. It lasted about a week before it sheared off again, this time leaving some damage behind. I almost think that I need to (carefully) drill some holes and just use screws/bolts and nuts (plus self-tapping sheet metal screws for the tight spots) to hold it in place, but that means putting holes in the drip/water channel of the hatch opening :-( I was wondering up a new mount could be fabricated that would hook over the metal lip of the hatch, and either kept in place with panel bonding adhesive or spot-welded to the lip, yet be thin enough to sit under the hatch seal and not cause water/fume leakage... but I am not a metal wiz :-\ So if this has happened to you, what was your solution besides making a prop to hold your hatch open?

I might have some drone in that range, but its nothing that I didn't have with the flowmaster. Just the tone is different. My car is geared a bit differently than a lot of 240's, so maybe I don't "sit" in that range much.....

Yep, that is tight! That's another reason why I wanted to try the round one that I ended up with... Being an offset/offset muffler, it lined up straight and true. Glad you like the sound. If we had decibel meters we could find out if one is significantly louder than the other