BadDog

#2: Top-down view

Here's a few pics I scanned this morning. #1: The "kludge" hole

well, waddayaknow.... Either way, I just ordered my vids from Z Therapy.... figure I better get some "baseline" knowlegde before I bug anybody with more questions that might be covered in there

Update: the tires, installed, were a grand total of $250... they look good and seem to handle well, steering is a lot better than the old, cracked, bald Sears rubber that was on her before As soon as she's running right, and I get some new steering rack bushings installed, I'll be able to test them out better

I'm 95% sure that they're equal lengths... I just got them from MSA. I tried feeding them through that hole, but they have rubber boots on them and a large-ish metal crimp holding the top of the boot (viewing when installed) in place on the sable sheath. I started to barely get 1 through, then realized there wa sno way the other one would fit through also BTW, when I said it seemed like the rear carb choke might be sticking, that was moving the lever *on the carb* by hand (where the cable attaches to it). The cable was unhooked, and sometimes I couldn't move it, other times I could Methinks it needs some lube, I just gotta figure out where... guess I could just spray the whole thing with WD40 and make a mess I'd be bound to hit it BTW I agree that I should use the correct hole on the firewall

2ManyZs, there *is* a whole on my firewall that lines up with the carbs, and the kludge cables were coming through there, but the new cables wouldn't fit through it without taking them apart (plus, I didn't think that the grommet for the cables would fit). I'm not saying you're wrong or anything though The hole on my firewall in that area is only about 1/4" wide, maybe 1/2" high and irregular in shape. I thought that maybe it had been drilled there for the kludge. It *also could be* the case that the correct whole on my car has been commandeered by something else :-) I have a brochure at home for the '73, I'll see if there's any engine compartment shots I just looked at Mike's pic, it looks like that's the same too-small-hole I was talking about... I guess I'll have to take the choke handle apart to get the cables off, though I think I'll take some snapshots tonight and post them...

Thanks Daniel, I'd say my choke movement does definitely not equal the lever. It may very well be that the choke is not opening up all the way; the car seems to run rich. Like I said before, who *knows* what other modifications were made when putting on the kludged-up 2-handle solution... if I had the spare cash I'd just exchange my carbs for rebuilt ones I think I need to see that video, another Z's setup in person, or both

Believe me, if you saw the shape my center console is in, you wouldn't worry To use JB weld, don't you need 2 pieces to weld together? Mine was gone... The cables move very easily; they're brand new. The problem is they don't *stay* closed; you pull the handle back and it doesn't stay. I think I tried "With the choke lever fully forward(off) and the chokes fully off on the carbs.Tighten down your cable screws on the carbs" but that didn't work: my car wouldn't cold-start because the chokes weren't even close to being closed. So, I did just the opposite: pull back the lever all the way, and pull up the choke until it was closed, then set the screws. Before I did that, I tried to find a "happy medium", but it seems that my chokes only move during the latter 1/3rd of the levers' (on the carb) range of motion. I think I need to confirm what carbs I have (they're supposedly '72's) and some some cleaning/oiling and get the Z Therapy video before I pull any of my hair out... I may just end up pulling off the whole intake and cleaning it all up because I think there's a leak on the exhaust half of the manifold gasket That would really suck, because I wanted to drive the car as much as I could this summer to work out these kinds of bugs, and who knows when I'll get it back together again

Chris Farley did some funny stuff.... Yes, my lap belt retracts but not the shoulder belt. Now that I've got my choke handle at least mounted in the right place, I can't tighten the shoulder belt without having to worry about the need to reach halfway under the dash... I guess I'll have to weigh the "originality" factor vs. the safety/convenience factor of later Z belt assemblies... not that my Z could ever be as safe as my daily driver

2ManyZs, that's the hole I tried to use first. I think in order to use it, I'll have to take apart the choke handle assembly and remove the cables from it to run them through there... but I don't think that the grommet that came with the new assembly will fit that hole. The grommet's too big... Timberwolf, I think mine were lawn mower cables too I think I see the hole you are talking about; it is currently passing what appears to be a vacuum tube. However, one end of said tube is just sitting on the passenger side floor, the other end is flopping around the engine bay, disconnected What's the procedure for adjusting them properly? Is it covered in the Haynes?

I installed a new choke cable assembly from MSA last night to try and clear up the "kludge" of 2 individual choke pull-handles mounted under my dashboard... In taking everything out, I found out why it was there: It looks like 1 of the original choke cables (half of which were still in the car attached to the original, broken, choke lever) broke, and one of the moutning points for the choke lever under the console was broken off. So, I removed the kludge and the old cut-off factory choke assembly and installed the new cable assembly. I just put a sheet metal screw through the top of my console, because it's in rough shape anyway In trying to get everything adjusted and testing the lever movement, I managed the break the other plastic mounting point. Enter another sheet metal screw Without having even a Haynes manual, I wasn't sure where to route the cables through the firewall (they didn't fit through the hole where the Kludge cables went through, which I wasn't sure was original, so I used the hood release (? I think?) hole (no grommet)) Anyway, the problem is that when I pull the choke lever back, it doesn't stay put. I played with adjusting the cables, but it doesn't make much difference. Watching from the driver's seat, it seems like the range of motion for the chokes is covered by roughly 1/2 the range of motion of the lever (I could see something moving up and down underneath the carbs). I'm wondering if whoever installed the Kludge changed some springs somewhere to stronger ones because the Kludge cables were so stiff. I'm also wondering if the rear choke is sticking, as it wasn't always moving when I manually moved the lever on the side of the carb where the cable attaches. I also think the car is running VERY rich, but that's a subject for another day... (lots of black exhaust, doesn't rev very willingly under load, seems to "strain" to accelerate at more than part-throttle and doesn't seem to quick). I think I better get that Z therapy video :-) (BTW I was told by the seller that my car has '72 carbs) If it'll help, I'll post a few digital pics here tomorrow night...

Thanks, 2ManyZs... I grabbed some contact cleaner and some blow-off from work and cleaned the turn signal assembly... in doing so, I found a black lead that was loose... I pull it apart, and gee! the headlights turn off! I put it back together, and they magically come back on! wow! So anyway, my turn signal is much less sticky now, and I made sure that electrical lead is now tight... but I had to get a new signal ticker. My old (original "Niles"?) one was bad. Nobody in town had a part like it, so I'm temporarily running a generic one, which is a lot quieter. As for my other new problem, well, I'll post that elsewhere

Hmmm no ideas yet? Well now that I've seen the price of a new switch, I'm gonna get some contact cleaner and some blow-off and see if I can clean it up a little!

Yes that's right... my car wouldn't pass NY safety inspection this morning because my headlights turn off when the turn signal comes on . Has anyone experienced this before? I'm guessing it may be the turn signal/high beam stalk switch because the turn signals don't always work unless it's in the right position... plus the stalk is kind of "mushy" feeling ...

Hmmm well if memory serves, my car was made in 4/73 if it makes any difference... the non-retractable shoulder belt is a real PITA when it comes to trying to adjust the KLUDGE my car has of 2 choke handles mounted under the dash above the hood release...

Thanks everyone, I found it. What a pain

Thank you very much I'll try it out when I get home tonight

my car's a '73... the shoulder belt is seperate, and I don't see how it could connect to the lap belt. Then again, I may just be completely not seeing something

Stupid question of the week: How do I use the shoulder belts in my 240?

hmm it looks like the seat mechanism cover is a different part #, but they may work anyway as I'm starting to suspect the seats aren't original... what the heck, I'll take it all anyway Is Billpoint OK for you?

Hey, I'm not complaining or anything I'll post here again Friday or Saturday regarding what I think of the Sumitomo's... at the very least, it may help someone in the future

Funny how the same couple of people answer my posts Yes, I saw other tires in the correct size range, and was leaning toward some Potenza RE92's when I saw the Sumitomo's. I was really looking for a dedicated summer tire, and trying to maximize the grip of the skinny stock wheels Yes, I *did* find them on Tire Rack while searching by size. My local guy said he'd charge a total of $60 installed, so I figured that'd be about the same as getting them for $33, plus shipping, plus installation, plus "hassle" It's pretty weird for me to think about tires in that price range... I'm used to trying to find affordable performance tires in sizes like 225/50/16 and up That's why I made the remark about getting 2 extra sets if I liek them

I searched the forums here for a good long while and couldn't find much info in the way of a decent tire that would fit my stock 14x5 " hubcapped wheels... just a lot of gripeing about how nobody makes a good 14" tire anymore So I found these Sumitomo HTR200's ... it looks like people like them, and there was a lot of great feedback about some of their other high-performance tires, so I decided to try them. I'm getting them put on Friday morning, but since I really haven't been able to drive my Z much since I got it last week (I haven't been able to register her yet, and the tires that are on her look to be at least 15 years old i.e. Sears Sport Treads, all cracked and nasty) I'll only be able to compare them to tires I've bought for my other cars in the past. I was really hopeing to find some nice Toyo's (I had a set of Proxes T1's on my old 318ti and *LOVED* them) but no such luck. Heck if I like these Sumitomo's, I might just buy 2 more sets and try to figure out some way to preserve them for use a few years down the road from now, since from Sumitomo's site, it doesn't look like they make them anymore

2ManyZs, I will post before an after pics... EScanlon, so are you saying to use a spray paint or not? If so, I'll try to find some of that liquid mask that 2ManyZs suggests, it'll probably help... is that another hobby store item? Are Pactra Formula U and Top Flite Lustre Kote brand names I can ask for? I assume I want flat black? Or do I want a gloss or semi-gloss? It's a good thing I work kitty-corner to the biggest hobby shop in my area Between the emblems and restoring my steering wheel (I jusst ordered back issues of Sport Z along with a subscription) I'll have something to do on rainy weekends

Is there a good way to re-paint the black background on emblems? Mine have good chrome, but the flat black parts are faded and chipped... seems like a waste to just get new ones