BadDog

Uhhh... who are you guys asking?

Sweet

Andy- Yeah, I really wanted some Sumitomo HTR 200's or their HTRZ's, but Discount Tire Direct didn't carry them (I've had great experience with Sumis in the past). I think these are a good compromise for me though. I don't track my car, and they seem to have a good combination of sporty handing yet good ride and noise control. The are asymmetrical (the sidewalls are labeled "outside" and "inside") but just not unidirectional (no "rotation" markings). Venus -Thanks, that's what I was thinking when I decided to go with these: dark wheel with deep, polished lip, offset by the silver and black. I really liked the look of my old wheels, but the lack of decent tire choices the last few years sealed the deal for me. I have indeed thought about what other stripes /accents I would do if I didn't have the side stripes. Might be something to expiriment with some day via custom-cut vinyl graphics before committing it to paint

Thanks! Sorry, 205/55/16 Falken Ziex ZE-912 My old 215 Firehawks didn't rub anywhere, but same size Radial T/A's rubbed EVERYWHERE. These don't rub in the back at all, and only a little in the front.

Here you go, there's one or two in my album: During my commmute this AM, it was far less windy out. The steering definitely feels more responsive than the old 215/60/14 setup, whether I hark back to my old Firehawks or more recently those darn BFG Radial T/A *BALLOONS* I'm still getting a feel for the tires. Turn-in seems much better, steering effort is very good, even when compared to driving around with 175/75(?)/14's on the stock steelies for the last 3 weeks. Ride quality is quite good as well...

See my photo albums for more. Don't judge my messy garage

They arrived at my workplace yesterday morning from Discount Tire Direct. I cut the cardboard and padding off of the first one, and loved to see that dark color and deep polished lip. I put them on last night and set them to 35 P.S.I. Couldn't go for a quick test-spin because it was late and I didn't want to disturb the neighbors. I had two nice long drives today, about an hour each way. The steering felt more lively/responsive than my old 14×7 with 215/60 combo. It was hard to really tell though, because it was extremely windy all day and my car was being pushed all over the road. The 215/55 tires make for a nice, smooth, comfortable ride. They really fill up the wheel well (I have Tokico HP struts and springs). There is no move rubbing in the back over large bumps, but the fronts rubbed the valence a little when backing up and turning. The valence was already banged up a little from the original owner, so I didn't feel too bad about "massaging" them a little bit more to clear. I couldn't get great pics because of the lighting, but I'll post some soon!

When I set up my air system in my garage, I used black cast iron pipe, with two 6-foot "legs", each with a drain/valve. The first leg is near the compressor, so that the flexible hose/line from the compressor hooks up to the pipe about a foot above the drain/valve. The pipe then goes up and over the side/man door, then about 10 feet, then down the second leg. The top is sloped slightly back toward the first leg. The second leg comes down and has a drain/valve at the bottom, with my Devilbiss filter/pressure regulator about halfway down. I have a 25-gallon 12CFM compressor. I primed and painted several pieces and jambs over a year or so in all different kinds of weather. Then I shot color and clear on the whole exterior one warm June day. The compressor kicked on frequently, though it always kept up. Never had any moisture issues, though I always had some water in the tank at the end of the day. I don't ever recall water ever draining out of the iron pipe or the Devilbiss filter, but the pipe is the way to go to cool the air. Oh, and always vent the entire system after every use. I received advice to leave the system "open" when not in use to help keep everything dry. Seems to have worked for me

I'll try to post some pics after I mount them. I'm guessing it'll take a couple extra days due to the holiday...

Thanks everyone. I confirmed that the names are interchangeable. Ordered some gunmetal 16×7 wheels with Falkens this morning.

no guesses?

I've seen the 16X7 size for sale with these color names listed seemingly interchangeably. The Konig site lists only Graphite. Are they one in the same? I've seen pictures that show Graphite as a lighter grey, and the few Gunmetal pictures seem darker, which I like.

Yep, rock auto and NAPA both offer a rebuild service, but have no stock. NAPA said that rebuilds are only 80% successful. No guarantee the rebuild will be OK if you give your old one to them and wait 10 days

3 words: Stupid Green Tape Yes, one of the magnets came out. The tape wasn't unwound or anything, the magnet just pulled itself through the tape! Superglued it back in place and drove 80 miles with no issues at all. Fastwoman - reman'd dizzies are functionally NLA from AutoZone, Parts America, and NAPA. All 3 said none available. Orderd mine from AZ before I even saw your post :-) ezzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz - I've been running my Flamethrower coil (3 ohm) without the ballast resistor now for 4 years, no issues there. Plus, MSD says to remove it. I'm still going to put in my new dizzy when it comes. There's a little play in the shaft, the gears may be a little worn. Thanks to you all!

I took a quick look at the magnet ring before I left for work this morning. It looks like the tape has lifted a little and folded over in at least one spot. That may be the issue, or it may have happened when I tried to see how much play there was in rotating the rotor counter-clockwise and back, and the maybe rotor damaged the tape. I'll have to take a closer look at it tonight. I'll probably swap the old points back in tonight if I can find the old the ballast resistor. If points work OK, it's a Pertronix/magnet issue and I'll look into a replacement. I'll probably also go ahead and order a remanufactured dizzy, seeing as mine's probably pretty worn, and a new one will probably last close to another 38 years (and they seem to be in short supply!)

yes, carbs. Points? No points. See the first line of my post: Pertronix Ignitor, MSD 6A. I've have the Pertronix for at least 5 years I think, and its been rock-solid. I've had the MSD box since last summer. I'm assuming they're OK, because from what I've read, if they had issues, I wouldn't have any spark at all. At this point I think I'm going to order a remanufactured distributor and install it. I seem to remember my manic Z mechanic mentioning something about a little bit of play in my distributor's shaft a year or two ago. I'm not sure how to check that, but there is a tiny bit of play if I try to wobble it around. I can also easily rotate it a little back and forth, which may be normal, I'm not sure.

Thanks for the replies. For some reason, I'm not getting e-mails about responses. FastWoman: I have carbs, so no injectors to test; I'll have to try the "dark" trick soon. Blue, that's exactly what I was talking about, I could feel the spark jumping on all cylinders except 6. I just got done running the compression test. It seems to look surprisingly good and consistent: 1: 155 2: 155 3: 160 4: 155 5: 155 6: 160 This was after a short warm-up, around 4 or 5 minutes.

Ground? I guess I never really thought that the plug, when installed, was grounded to the block. Maybe the plug isn't grounding for some reason? Because every other plug, I could hear the spark jumping from the wire to the plug if I wasn't quick enough hooking the wire back up... I guess I'll go pickup a compression tester, may come in handy later with my aging engine...

'73, stock distributor, Pertronix Igniter, MSD 6A. Symptoms started one day last week after winding out 2nd gear. My tach jumped from around 4K up to around 6K, then back down to around 4K. After that, the engine was running roughly, not revving easily, and backfiring under anything more than light load. I thought maybe a plug was fouled because it definitely felt like it was down a cylinder. Here's what I've done: 1) Changed the plugs 2) Checked to make sure the distributor didn't move. 3) checked the cam timing, thinking it was timing chain slip or the tensioner broke. It was dead on. 4) Checked valve clearance, since it'd been about 2 years. No difference. 5) At this point, it occurred to me to pull the plug wires one by one. This is when I found that #6 was not firing. 6) I swapped the wires for positions 5 and 6. The problem stayed on 6. 7) Swapped in a new rotor. No difference. 8) Swapped in the last distributor cap I had. No difference. 9) swapped in another new plug on #6 just in case I had a bad new plug. 10) Propped the #6 wire and plug up on top of the value cover so I could start the car and watch for a spark. No sparks. At this point I'm thinking that something is wrong with my distributor, but I don't know what to do next. Help?

I seem to remember having the same problem when I bought my '73. Turns out the hole is on the passenger side

I should've added that a 4.11 would be bad with the original 4 speed. I'm running an '82 ZX 5-speed. I'm actually turning ~500 RPM less now at 70mph than the original combo...

Mine isn't LSD, but it's a lot of fun. R180 4.11 out of the front of a Nissan 4X4.

...and shave some rotational mass to boot! Thanks!

I have 3. I got lucky, it clears by about 1/8th inch. Guess I'll look into a 1-groove crank pulley!

Thanks guys. I got a hold of my local Z guru. He'd never seen one of those spacers before, and figures it was due to the A/C that is long gone. I checked the pulley alignment with and without it, and the pulleys line up better without it. Also, all pictures that I can find of that pulley all show it closer to the block than mine was. I decided to go without it since the alignment looks better and the extra 1/4" of space really helps my clearance problem.