240zdave

That's what I'm afraid of.

Who has experience shipping body panels by Greyhound? Did you have to box them up, or will Greyhound take them unboxed? What was the condition of the part on arrival? I'm trying to get a hood shipped to me, but I could not understand the person that I got on the phone when I called Greyhound (heavy accent). Any information and/or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Shaving cream worked for me at the Labor Day Pro-IT race at Barber. Smeared Barbasol all over the inside of the windshield, let it dry, then wiped it off with dry towels. I was driving a friend's 280Z, which has a working blower, but the windshield stayed clear the entire race. Did not even turn on the blower, which in my experience is useless. Did not need the rag on a stick, either. I started 25th overall, and finished 9th, 1st in class. The attached photo was taken near the end of the race. The windshield was that clear the entire race.

I'll give it a try and see if it works. Thanks.

If you're talking about the points in the distributor, I'm running with a Pertronix, so no points. Race car setup is MSD6AL, MSD Blaster II coil, NGK Iridium plugs gapped to 0.050, a Pertronix, and vacuum advance disabled on the distributor. Street car is similar, with MSD6A, MSD Blaster II coil, NGK Iridium plugs gapped to 0.050, a Pertronix and vacuum advance disabled on the distributor. No ballast resistor at all on the race car, but still have it on the street car. I'm at work right now, and so can't tell you which wires are connected to the ballast resistor on the street car. My point is, if it works on the race car, it should work on the street car. The street car seems to be running fine, although I rarely rev the engine beyond 4500 RPMs.

Will do. All of the reproductions I have found so far are fiberglass.

I have been looking for an air dam to replace the one I recently damaged on a parking bumper. It is black urethane and bolts up to the front valance panel. The Datsun/Nissan part number was/is 98300-E8100. I have attached a photo of the air dam / chin spoiler. I heard this morning that there is a company in the UK making reproductions for 180 pounds approx. (apologies; don't have the symbol for British pounds). Does anyone know what company might be producing these?

I am looking for software that I can use to track the maintenance and upgrades to my 240Z, as well as our other cars. I have Googled and have come up with these options: Auto Maintenance Pro - http://www.mtcpro.com/automtc.htm Vehicle Manager - http://www.kzsoftware.com/products/vehicle_maintenance/vehicle_maintenance_log.htm?gclid=CKjgtd2gxKcCFQGGDgodITFMEA Ownersite - http://www.ownersite.com/Consumers.cfm CarCare - http://www.carcaresoftware.com/intro.htm Automotive Wolf - http://www.lonewolf-software.com/automotivewolf.htm Does anyone have experience with any of these? If not, can you suggest an alternative that is not listed? I can't find any site that compares them side by side.

Jon, when you say bridge the ballast resistor, do you mean get rid of it entirely? I race a 240Z in ITS, and I'm running a Pertronix, MSD 6AL, an MSD Blaster coil, and the distributor vacuum advance is disabled, with no ballast resistor at all. I took my 240Z street car down to John Williams in Atlanta to get the same setup, and we had a hard time getting the thing to run. The final setup includes the ballast resistor, but basically using it (I think) as terminal posts for termination/connection of some of the wires. I wanted to try taking out the ballast resistor to match the setup in the race car, but it was getting dark, and I had to get back to Nashville, so I have not tried that yet. The car runs great, but I don't know if I giving up some performance with the ballast resistor still there.

I would be very interested to know what kind of MPG you get with the Mikuni's. I've heard figures as low as 9 MPG, but I'm stilling lusting after a set of these.

Years ago I took an SVO Mustang to a body shop in Tampa for a repaint. It did not help that the shop's biggest customer was a local fabricator of AC Cobra kit cars. It sat and sat with nothing getting done until I showed up one day with enough cash to buy the Glasurit paint. I think they finished the car in about a week and a half. Money talks.

That was my yellow '71 240Z that Dennis and Mark were standing next to during their talk. I think I saw my car 5 or 6 times during the show.

These folks have stainless steel kits for the non-structural grade (suspension) fasteners. http://www.mmsacc-stainless.com/html/Datsun.htm I'm not aware of bolt kits for the structural fasteners. Maybe someone else knows a source.

Is it just me, or does the winner look like Speed Racer's car? I was also pretty disappointed in the show and the results. My wife's nephew met George Barris at some car show several years ago. He mentioned to Barris that I had a 240Z that I raced in the SCCA. Barris told him that he had always liked the 240Z, that it had really nice lines. Apparently, time and TV dollars have changed his tune.

Well, I put the wheel on last night, and after driving it to work this morning, I am going to have to do some adjusting. The wheel is slightly off center, turned a little to the right, so I will take it loose and move it back to the left. Also, the horn is not working. There were 2 sets of instructions with the wheel. The supplement said that for some painted wheels (either the 3-hole or the 5-hole, can't remember), there was supposed to be some sort of foil thingy to provide the ground. There was no foil thingy in the package, so I just connected the one wire in the adaptor to the small terminal in the center of the horn button and called it done. I did bend the copper pickup up to where it touched the copper ring on the back of the billet adaptor. I also apparently hammered in the roll pins too far. They need to be pulled out and readjusted. I have to say, the instructions that came with the wheel leave a lot to be desired.

Thanks for the advice. I have a puller, so face whacking is out. That said, if there is another way to injure something during the process, I'll probably find it.:stupid:

I appreciate everyone's concern for my face . I know some guys have had issues with getting the horn to work with the Grant adaptor. Head scratching time tends to turn some of these upgrades into "there's X hours of my life that I'll never get back".

Our club has an event this Saturday that I don't want to miss. I've been meaning to change out the stock steering wheel for a new Grant wheel, but I have limited time between now and Saturday. I don't want to start the project and not get finished in time for the event. Can anyone give me an idea how long it took them to do this swap? I am pretty handy, but not a mechanic, if that helps.

Didn't the original radio on/off switch also control the antennae? One of the PO's added a switch to control the antennae when the radio was replaced with an aftermarket one.

Excellent information, Dave. Thanks.

Dave, do you remember the P/N for the thermal switch?

Dave, There is another thread with quite a few posts on the importance of making sure that the aluminum radiator is isolated from the steel radiator cross-member to prevent corrosion. Your photos don't really show how you mounted your radiator. Did you use some kind of rubber standoffs or something similar?

One downside to an aluminum radiator will be that it will make my fairly stock, definitely not shiny, engine compartment look just a little more drab. Beautiful engine compartment, Dave.

This is actually for the street car, but I'm also trying to decide if I should replace my Griffin radiator in the race car. I just got it back from Earl Owens Chassis before New Years. The cage is done, as well as some other items (front strut brace, fuel cell frame & cover, front sway bar mount). Next is body work and paint.

I've searched the Forum, and have not been able to find any information about 240Z aluminum radiators as sold on Ebay. Champion seems to be one of the manufacturers; there are a lot of sellers marketing their radiators. Koyo is another. Here are some examples: http://motors.shop.ebay.com/__?_from=R40&_trksid=p3872.m39.l1313&_nkw=240z+radiator&_sacat= Does anyone have any experience with any of these manufacturers or sellers?