240zdave

I am dealing with this same issue on my '71 right now. I've got 3/8" toe in on the rear wheels. The PO had installed camber bushings on the rear A-arms, but only the ones toward the front. With the front bushings adjusted all the way out, I still have 3/8" of toe-in. I talked to John Williams (Z-car shop in Sugar Hill, GA, just outside of Atlanta), and he told me that most likely one or both of the rear A-arms are bent out at the small end. The way to tell is to look at a couple of holes adjacent to the small end, next to where the spindle pins go through. If the holes are not round, but are elongated or egg-shaped, the A-arm is bent (see attached diagram). He told me it is difficult to find an A-arm that is not bent. If you can't, the best you can do is to install the camber bushings on both ends of the large end, and take as much of the toe out as you can. He told me that the 240Z came from the factory with 0 degrees of toe-in or out, meaning that the rear wheels should be parallel with each other. deformed a-arm.bmp

Congratulations on your new Z! It's a real beauty. I strongly recommend John Williams in Sugar Hill (770-806-2926) if you need any work done. He knows Z cars up, down and sideways. Enjoy the ride!

The Moog ball joints from Rock Auto are nice. Just put a pair on the race car.

The fuel pump gets its power through the ignitiion switch. It's only on when the switch is on.

This problem started about a month ago. I got in the car to go to work, turned the key to RUN to turn on the electric fuel pump (did the mechanical to electrical pump swap last year), then turned the key to START and nothing happened, just a click that sounded like it was coming from under the dash. I then turned the key OFF, turned it back to RUN, and this time no fuel pump. Turned it to START and just the click and nothing else. I did this several times, and eventually the car started. Soooo, of course, what did I do? I drove it to work. When I came out to go to lunch, duh, the same thing happened again. After about 5 minutes of trying, it finally cranked, so I drove it home and drove my truck back to work. I was trying to figure out what was wrong the following weekend. I checked to make sure the battery cable connections were tight, and all of the wires going to the starter were connected and tight as well. Then I noticed that the fusible link going from the wiring harness connector to the starter was wrapped, not very well, with electical tape. I removed the tape, and the original insulation was cracked, exposing the wire, which was corroded and about half of the strands were broken. I ordered a new fusible link and replaced it, and that seemed to solve the problem. The car cranked and ran great for about a week and a half, then all of a sudden, the same problem again. Now I'm thinking that it's the ignition switch, even though the one in the car is practically brand new, replaced by me, along with the ignition lock, about 18 months ago. The new switch came from Black Dragon, which in my experience does not always have the best products. Any other ideas of what things I should check?

My bad. I should have said Video 2. There is also footage of the 510 and the Z in Video 3. The 510 goes past at about 2:33, and the Z is at around 4:38. Pretty cool.

Bring A Trailer posted some video of some of the race here: http://bringatrailer.com/2010/10/30/2010-la-carrera-panamericana-la-bufa-videos/#more- Video 3 has both the 510 and the 260Z. The 510 goes by first, then the 260Z is at 7:26 into the video. The 510 sounds great; the Z sounds like it's coasting.

Before anyone comments, the blog is called lacarrera2007, but the coverage and photos are from this years event going on right now.

There's a photo of the 240Z coming into Morelia on day 3 or 4 (?) on this blog site: http://lacarrera2007.blogspot.com/

I don't know if I would agree on the good looking part, but certainly more aerodynamic than most cars of that period. Did anyone count how many of the Studebakers are entered?

My Hemmings daily newsletter had an article about this years La Carrera Americana race that is starting today or tomorrow. I went to the official website, clicked on Participants, and noticed 2 teams were racing Datsuns, one a 510, and another what appears to be a 240Z. Pretty cool. Here is the link to the website: http://www.lacarrerapanamericana.com.mx/index2.asp

This is basically what you are looking for: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Wheel-Lug-Nut-Dorman---OE-Solutions_9100249-P_970_R%7CGRPWHELAMS_983332257___

I am dealing with this same issue on my '71 right now. I've got 3/8" toe in on the rear wheels. The PO had installed camber bushings on the rear A-arms, but only the ones toward the front. With the front bushings adjusted all the way out, I still have 3/8" of toe-in. I talked to John Williams (Z-car shop in Sugar Hill, GA, just outside of Atlanta), and he told me that most likely one or both of the rear A-arms are bent out at the small end. The way to tell is to look at a couple of holes adjacent to the small end, next to where the spindle pins go through. If the holes are not round, but are elongated or egg-shaped, the A-arm is bent (see attached diagram). He told me it is difficult to find an A-arm that is not bent. If you can't, the best you can do is to install the camber bushings on both ends of the large end, and take as much of the toe out as you can. He told me that the 240Z came from the factory with 0 degrees of toe-in or out, meaning that the rear wheels should be parallel with each other. deformed a-arm3.bmp

Sometimes you can unstick the float valve by tapping the float bowl with something like a screwdriver handle. If that gives no results, then you probably need to get into the float bowl, remove the valve and make sure it's clean and working (blow compressed air through it). And while you're in there, you might as well make sure the float is set properly.

Actually, you can find new window regulator parts at jdm-car-parts dot com, but it will cost you. Check this page: http://jdm-car-parts.com/category/item-for-sale/page/4/

So, Dave, are you still waiting for Yetterben, Chuck496 to send payment? I'm still interested in one R/T mount if they are out of the picture. Let me know. Thanks.

Dave, I am interested in your R/T Mount, if one of your orders falls through. I also sent you a PM. Thanks.

Dave, if any of your orders falls through, add me to the list. I saw this thread the other day and meant to get my name in, but forgot about it until this morning. Thanks.

I'm running NGK Iridium plugs gapped to .045 with an MSD6A, MSD Blaster 2 coil, and a 240Z dizzy with a Pertronix pickup. It works great. Easier starting, and probably more power, but I have not had it on a dyno to confirm.

The fronts come from Tokico with a section of pipe pushed onto the bottom so they will fit tight in the stock front strut tube.

This is an old thread, but I did not see any information about 16x7 Panasports. Is anyone running 16x7's? If so, with what offset? What size tires? Any rubbing issues?

I'm working on the suspension right now. Will be starting the cage soon. Still not going as fast as I want, but we do what we can do.

I just ordered a pair from Motorsport Auto, assuming that they would be aluminum drums. I decided after the order to ask if they were indeed aluminum, and got a reply back from Jon McCarty that they are steel. He said they sold their last aluminum drums back in April, so there is still no source for aluminum drums that I am aware of.

I would definitely be interested in the full exhaust system. I'm still trying to decide whether to change over to headers, so a system that allows for local fabrication from the downpipe or header of choice to a front connection would make sense. If there is not enough interest in the full exhaust system, just the muffler with vertical twin tips that would work with MSA's systems would be a good fallback.

Dave, Do you also rebuild ignition switches like you do the T/S and Combo switches? I am also having ignition issues, which I will be chasing this weekend, and I'm researching my options, in case my problem is the switch.