rdefabri

That's hardcore - I do the drive from Central NJ to Trenton to get my DeLorenzo's fix, but not multiple states!

I did see this, but it doesn't show the horn pad mount. I am missing that, wanted to see if there's a part # or what it looked like. I also happen to have a spare steering coupler. Rather than taking everything apart, I wanted to see the position in the column.

Do you guys do Jag SUs as well? I am assuming YES, since they are close enough... I know the ZTherapy reputation is fantastic - and I have been meaning to obtain some of the materials you have...FOUR HOURS?? Wow, that's in depth!

Bruce, Bear with me - I am no expert, let alone SU-savvy! I had previously taken the floats off. My original fuel pump was dead, but I didn't realize it at the time. I took the floats off to see if any gas was getting to the carbs. There wasn't any, and I must have used too much force putting the floats back in. I am talking about the "arms" that suspend the float - there is a central tab that closes a valve that I assume suspends fuel flow until the gas level in the bowl recedes. These arms were bent, so much so that the central tab was not even making contact with the valve. When I bent the float arms back to a point where the central tab touched (and actuated) the valve, the car worked perfectly. So, originally, after installing the new fuel pump, the car was spurting fuel from the overflow tubes that exit the back of the air cleaner. Coming out quite a bit too - that caused the pooling on my drive way. As I said, once I fixed the floats, this stopped immediately. I do agree with you that a fuel pump would have little to do with starting - but my guess is that the original fuel pump wasn't doing much, effectively leaning out the mixture. I can say this, the car hasn't run this well since I've owned it. Only things I changed were the fuel pump and the correction of said bent floats. My apologies for the terminology - I don't know the SU carb as well as I should, but all seems to be ok now.

I originally thought that was the problem until I saw the bent float. However, it seems that my original float was flowing poorly before failure - the car had a difficult time starting. Now, the new pump, I start with no problem - barely even need to choke, so I assumed the flow was pretty healthy. Seeing how much gas pooled (and stained!) my driveway, fair to say the new pump is working well!

Does anyone have an exploded view of the steering assembly from wheel forward? I am trying to see the horn pad mount and the steering coupler...thanks in advance. A Google search did not produce the desired result.

While not "show ready", I am trying to get my car in as nice shape as I can. I am having issues with getting the clips on the shifter leather boot! Also, I need a horn pad bracket to mount to my steering wheel

I definitely plan on being there!

Printed the form - it says you have to register by 11:00 am. Not sure I'll be there that early. I can call the number, but do you know if I can just "show up"? My daughter has a karate belt test, so I will be a little later to the party

I figured it out - apparently, the arms that secure the floats were bent, possibly when I put them back in the last time. As a result, the float wasn't closing the valve in the bowl. Hence, there would be no stoppage of fuel flow as the float rose in the bowl...I simply bent the float / float arms back into position and I was good to go...

All: Both seem to be doing it, but the rear carb more than the front. I have a feeling the floats are stuck. If it's the needle and seats, I'd be shocked. The car ran with no issue a few weeks ago, so I don't think that would be it. Tomorrow I'll open the bowl to see if floats are stuck. Otherwise, I'll try the other suggestions.

I just replaced my fuel pump with an OEM model from AutoZone (Airtex). Car started great, until I noticed fuel coming out of the overflow vents at the air cleaner base. The car ran fine prior to the fuel pump replacement. All that I changed was the fuel pump...I am guessing that this is related to the floats - possible they are stuck (since the car was "dry"). I need to open them up and check. Assuming that ISN'T the problem - any other ideas? I know the fuel rail is clear, but it's worth checking the return line. I am bummed

Success!!! Thanks to all that provided guidance / advice! I installed the AutoZone fuel pump and BINGO! The car is now running again! Just in time to close out the summer - can't wait to drive it again!

If I can get my car running, I will be there....

Arne, Much thanks - looking at the bill of materials, $20.00 is quite reasonable. I'll check with my local dealer as well to see if they will order. Rich

Dumb q - safe to assume these are special order or mail order parts?

I did check to see if the mechanical pump was working (ran hose to a can) - it looks like that's the issue. Someone suggested AutoZone - they have an "Airtex Master" fuel pump that apparently fits. Looks much different from the OEM unit, but at $37.99, it's much better priced than what's at Black Dragon. Anyone have experience with "Airtex Master" and/or AutoZone?

Steve, I'm no expert, but I am having what I believe are fuel pump issues. I'll try to replace mine to see if that's my problem. However, having taken apart my fuel pump and recent history here, the pump should ride on the eccentric. The eccentric (obviously) activates the lever that causes the pump to operate. I don't believe that at any point, the pump lever is EVER off the eccentric. It's important that once you replace the pump, the lever is touching - to the point where you must push on the pump to get into position. Make sure that there is no interference (e.g., gasket sealer) and that the gaskets on the pump are placed back in the order they were in originally! Otherwise, you may be effectively "shimming" the pump/lever away from the eccentric. Rich

I would suggest an "informal" gathering at either Englishtown Raceway Park or the new NJ Motorsports Park in Millville, NJ. It looks like we could get about 10+ people...there's an SVRA event going on at NJMP in August (Aug. 7-10). That would be a cool gathering to meet up at! There's also a Grand-Am race scheduled for Aug 28-31. Who's in?

I have not checked the rails. I mentioned that my float bowls are very clean, no sediment at all. I did notice some sediment in the pump, but nothing major. I surmise that a clog would result in poor running before complete stall, and the car never acted weird - it just stopped like it ran out of gas. Per JimmyZ's suggestion, I'll work my way towards the rail - I am still stuck at the fuel pump!

Excellent suggestion, I thought this was an issue, so I added 4 gallons. I'll check this one off! Have not done this yet. Haven't drawn it manually, but there's no fuel flow to the carbs, so I've "skipped" this stage. Strangely, fuel is present in the filter. Did this - and #4 happened Removed pump, checked everything - still think this is the culprit (which you mentioned having an extra). I am sort of at this stage This will be next - although I did clean out the float bowls...they were pretty clean for a 35 year old car! It's much appreciated - to everyone! I misunderstood your part about the secondary, electric pump...I probably should check that, but as you mentioned the car can function w/o it. So I think the next step is to take the inspection cover off of the fuel pump and start the car to see that the valves are opening/closing. I do know the pump rocker arm is up against the eccentric, I checked that when I re-attached it. Rich

Let's hope so! I want to get her out again soon!

Mike, Excellent - I will do that. Out of curiosity - is this common? I would have thought the pump would fail prior to the eccentric! Rich

The pump is mechanical, not electric. Pumping by hand, it works absolutely fine. I took it apart, everything is fine - spring is taught, no rips/punctures on the diaphragm, the valves are clear and work. I did presume there was a problem with not enough gas, so I added 4 gallons to the 2 I had in there previously, no success. I agree it would take a lot to clog the lines - the car died like it had no gas and when I checked everything yesterday, it was BONE DRY (no gas from pump to carbs/bowls!!!) I have no way of knowing unless I remove the cam cover (which I think is the next step) if the cam bolt is loose. Something tells me there's intermittent (now permanent) failure since the car was working fine just 2 weeks ago. The fuel pump was squirting fuel, so I know somewhere in that area the failure lies.

Mike, True, but testing that won't definitively rule out either. However, there is/was some gas in the filter, and that wasn't pumping. Since the hose between the filter and the pump was brand new, I don't think there is a clog there, which leads me to believe it's the pump - it's not pumping well enough or it's not being actuated by the cam, not sure.