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rdefabri

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Everything posted by rdefabri

  1. zman, I PM'd you. I am interested in your tranny and your steering wheel (if original). Let me know.
  2. Yeah, I was surprised they did it (but I am new to the Jag thing). I know that Porsche is very proud of their heritage and they offer this kind of thing. Interestingly, I am a big Ferrari fan and will likely own one in the near future -- they are not as "heritage" oriented as you might expect. It's only recently that they document provenance, and that's generally reserved to racing cars only. I would love to know the back history of my Z. I know I am at least the 3rd owner, though I'd bet there's more than that. Does the IZCC have any resources to help trace heritage?
  3. 26th-Z, Thanks, I suspected as much. Curious -- did Nissan destroy the records intentionally, or was this accidental. Boy, what a mistake if it was intentional. They would have certainly overlooked what has become one of the most influential automobiles in history.
  4. All: I am guessing this is not the case, but I was wondering if Nissan has a service that provides a production trace of your Z car? I have a Jag E-Type, and this is a really cool service that Jaguar provides that shows the original dealer, owner, production dates, etc. I know Porsche does something similar. If Nissan does not (and I am pretty sure they don't), does anyone have ideas about how to suggest it to them?
  5. Nothing wrong with being married -- it's give and take. I might be an exception in that my wife looks like she walked off of a Playboy photo shoot, but she's a good woman too! Heck, I have 2 nice cars (240Z and an XKE), a classic motorcycle, and a big honking STAG ZTR mower! Yes, do the dinner thing, get her a nice card (and maybe flowers) for V-Day. It really doesn't take much, you just have to give a little to get a little!
  6. I captured you in the file. If you want to repost, go to "manage attachments" down below the text boxes.
  7. PirOSan, Thanks for adding yours to the list. I'd rather it be done that way (people add as they post), but it may be difficult to maintain a single document. Keep it going!
  8. Vicky, Thanks. I think he could add a link, but anything "automatic" would be difficult as he's told me. Kurt, I am thinking it's build date, but you bring up a good point. Technically, this should be the "title" date -- many times manufacturers "build" cars early -- that is, an early 1972 car would have certainly been built in 1971, but the car is titled a 1972. Don't know the answer there, unless someone identified the car's year, some cases I estimated based on the sequential order.
  9. All, Updated with new information. Z VIN NUMBERS.xls
  10. Pics? Hard to tell without that.
  11. Ouch, it's early in CA!!! Isn't it in ascending order? Keep in mind there are some Australian/New Zealand cars in there that make the order seem funny (different car code).
  12. Yep, I'll setp up too.... 37 yo, married, two young daughters, I am in Marketing/Product Management mostly in the Software and Technology space (some of my tech articles are published on the web). I own a 72 240Z, which I recently purchased 20 years after owning (and wrecking) a 76 280Z. I also own a 1966 Jaguar E-Type FHC (carmen red) and a 1967 Honda 305 CL/77 Scrambler (look it up, memorialized by the Beach Boys in "Little Honda"). In the past I have owned mostly motorcycles, which is one of my many passions, owning 4 Harleys and a Kawasaki KZ. Just sold my most recent Sporster to purchase the Z (well worth it I might add).
  13. 71DatsunZ, I'm from Joisey....you from Joisey? Whereabouts in Central NJ are you? I am down the shore area......
  14. JMKM, If you don't want to do it yourself (SU's are tricky), you could always ship the SUs to ZTherapy as well. They have a great reputation, I need to do the same. I am actually down the Jersey Shore, trust me there are no Z specialists anywhere that I know of. You'd be lucky to even see a Z in this neck of the woods. Interesting that there ARE Jaguar specialists -- I say that because I own an E-Type. There are alot of similarities between the Z and the E-Type, and given the E-Type's rarity, tendency to rust, etc., I would have figured there would be at least one Z shop around. Let me know how you make out, as I mentioned, I need to do the same.
  15. I saved it as Excel 5.0, maybe that will help? Marduke -- I updated the file and attached. I am assuming yours is a 1971. Z VIN NUMBERS.xls
  16. Ken, That's a possibility. I haven't driven it with the choke engaged, so I am not certain. I do know that when I blip the throttle with the choke, it will cough a little, but not a ton. I took it for a spin yesterday and the carbs crossed my mind. Since my original Z was a fuelie, I am prone to not considering carbs as an area to investigate. I thought of pulling them and sending to Z Therapy for an overhaul....anyone have experience with them?
  17. I thought those ended in 1971? I actually like those better, honestly. Any links or does anyone know where I could get something like that (other than eBay?) Arne, I know you mentioned there isn't any likely repros, so obviously that's out.
  18. Yeah, that's kind of what I was thinking!!! The "D" caps ain't cheap though. Does anyone make a reproduction of them?
  19. Yeah, since it really purchased it for its significance, I think leaving it stock displacement is cool. Now I need to score some nice hubcaps for this baby, I love that old school look!
  20. Well, that's the dilemma. Since it's numbers matching, I like the idea of keeping it original. I could always score a 4-speed and ditch the rear end (what ever it is). I have the slotted mags, and I actually prefer the steel wheel/hubcap combo. The only other mod appears to be the seats, they have Recaros (which suck horribly). It's close enough to "original" to restore, but I don't want a trailer queen. I don't care about winning concours events or anything like that, but I do recognize the historical significance of the Z. It's why I bought a 240 instead of a 1977 or 1978 280Z. To be honest, when I bought the car, I assumed the thing wasn't quite as original as it is. I was fully prepared to modify it heavily. But now I am having second thoughts. On the subject of the L28 crank, it's definitely different from the LD28. I am 90% certain you can use the L28 crank and rods with no issue (that's essentially what a 260Z is). I'd never put it in without first balancing, but Z cranks are legendary for being balanced. I think the answer is to forgo the L28 crank, just send the head out for the rework/valves, etc. If I truly have a 4.11, then in stock form, the refreshed engine should move enough for me.
  21. GOOD LUCK! I pondered doing the road trip when I bought mine (Virginia to New Jersey), but opted to have a transport company bring it. Don't forget to update the VIN number Excel sheet with your new toy!
  22. That's certainly one way!! I could also pull the rear cover and I think there is a stamping inside that should indicate if it's a 4.11. I am pretty sure the diff has been changed, or minimally cleaned, it looks rather new. The 5-speed is a Motorsport Auto unit. Don't know if they still sell them, but it's not a T-5 from a Mustang or ZX. I am curious if MSA just rebadged or mimicked what was in a T-5, but I am not up to speed on what the gearing was in them. Here's what is interesting. When I am below 3000 RPMs, the motor coughs and such, but once you get past 3000, the thing takes off. I figured that was due to the cam, I bet the previous previous owner dumped something in there without doing the port/valves/exhaust, etc. It doesn't burble at idle, so it can't be too hot of a cam, but it's sluggish at low revs. I also noticed it ticks a bit. I know the Z's are known for this, but it seems pretty loud. I have good oil pressure, and it's not smoking, so maybe there's just a need to get that head off and have it done. It will take me some time. I have to start tinkering with the E-type too -- while quite similar to the Z, it's different enough to scare me more.
  23. Yeah, isn't that strange? I thought the same, unless it just isn't a 4.11 diff. I've only had the car for about 2 months, and with children it's impossible to get free time Ok, let's reset the thread. I wanted to get 225 at the crank if I went for the Rebello stroker (at least that's what they advertised). I know my way around cars well enough to know what I can and can't get and how much to pay (I may be a newbie to this forum, but I am no newbie to cars, hot rodding, etc.) I realize now that the Rebello stroker is not the way to go ($$$). That's why I suggested the 280 crank/rods. With that extra displacement + a good head rework, I have to be realistic about what I can get. Given the $2K budget (I have been told that a Sunbelt job is $1,500 or so) I think 190 at the crank should be attainable or somwhere close to that. I am curious if I really have the 4.11 gears, I have to take a closer look at it. The thing doesn't move out at all, in fact it's much slower than the Z I had 20 years ago. In fact my 1997 Saturn SC2 is much peppier, leading me to believe a) it's not a 4.11 or there's something wrong with the engine. My guess is that it's a, since the engine seems to be fine, but then again I need to rip the thing apart to see.
  24. Well, I am not saying I won't spend money, I don't want to drop $5K into a full blown Rebello/Sunbelt motor. About 20 years ago I had a 280 that I modified a bit and it responded well for little dollars (sort of the Bryan Little/Z Car Garage thing). I am budgeting about $2K or so on engine work. The car has good compression, and doesn't burn oil, but seems a bit sluggish off the line. The previous owner told me that the guy he purchased it from put in a new cam. If he did, I can't tell, or he just dumped in a cam without other mods (porting, etc.). For $2K, I think I could get a first rate head re-work. Maybe specify some mods, but I think that's reasonable. If I do that + the 280 crank and rods (which I already have in my possession), I think I could get to the 180 mark.
  25. Yep, that's what I meant! Still debating whether it's worth it. The added displacement may only be worth 10HP at crank, so it's not much. I think with a cylinder head job from a good supplier, I could squeeze decent HP while being streetable and getting more ponies.
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