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rdefabri

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Everything posted by rdefabri

  1. Nice suggestion! But how about just dropping in a L28 crank in the original motor? That gives me the extra torque, but numbers would still match. I'd also be around 9.5:1 compression, so I think I could make some decent power like that. Visually, it would still be numbers matching with no modifications to the block (I'd store the 240 crank).
  2. Yep, I have that in there already.
  3. You may not even have Excel on the PC. You can download the Excel viewer from Microsoft, but that only lets you view a file. I'll maintain it until you hear back if the site can host it.
  4. What version Windows are you running?
  5. Can you see the Excel file? It's much easier to maintain over the text file. Let me know, I'll try to save it in an older Excel format if needed.
  6. Ok, I added it. I won't repost until I get a few more. WAIT A MINUTE!! I don't want to OWN this thing!!!! Will someone volunteer to take over?? :classic:
  7. Here's a text file if you can't open the Excel file Z VIN NUMBERS.txt
  8. It worked fine for me. It's Excel 2003, so maybe that's the problem? I can put it in a .txt file or put it in a LARGE post and you can copy paste.
  9. No problem, actually it was quite easy. The hard part will be maintaining it, but I'd prefer to pass that off to someone else!
  10. All, Ok, I have compiled the responses into an Excel Spreadsheet. I did not capture engine casting #'s, since not everyone provided them. MikeW, perhaps you can use this for the dbase, not sure where you stand. Just sort on car code and VIN# and you can see who is closest to you. Rich Z VIN NUMBERS.xls
  11. I have an Excel file coming!! It's about 50% completed, I'll post it soon! I have user name, VIN #, year and model. It's not perfect, but it's a start. Maybe we can post it as a living document and add as needed?
  12. That's a reasonable price! Who did you send it to? Unfortunately, I am in NJ, where nary a Z lives much more these days....loads of snow and salt makes 'em a rare breed. Anything I can do to minimize the expense. Just a comparison, to have my XKE engine rebuilt, Classic Jaguar (a top Jag shop) charges about $10K for a STANDARD REBUILD!!! $2K is a relative bargain considering the similarities in the motors. Most of the original stuff is there, but needs refreshing. It'll take some time, but I'm game!
  13. I have HLS30-73667, manufactured 3/72
  14. Actually, I think I am going to do the full resto! I'll start with the big stuff first and work my was back, but I have neither the room nor the time to pull it and store it. If I am going to hot rod a Z, I'll get me a 1977 or 1978 280 and do the F54/P90 or N42 swap or maybe even a turbo.
  15. Good points! I should point out this isn't a "daily driver". It's no garage queen either, but I don't intend to use it for commuting or things like that. That being said, it would probably be best to just restore it. The problem is the car has some mods already, so the temptation is to just go all the way. I just saw a Hemmings Magazine that ranks the Z as collectible, amongst all the other rags. As more and more get modified, an original is tougher to come by. Therein lies my hesitation to go all out, but the expense of doing a total resto also has me seeing $$$. Gotta keep in mind I have an original XKE that shares some of these funds (as does my wife and kids). Sounds like most people say to pull the engine, don't modify the current lump.
  16. Montoya, Yes, agreed, it's more than "slightly" modified. I'd have to call this something like a "resto-mod", it's original, but modified. I mentioned that the previous owner did some work, he also mentioned the person before him may have done some work (cam, and something else, but it's hard for me to tell). Yes, I know I could get a 4-spd pretty easy. I have had this debate in my head -- do I perform a full on restoration or go the modified route....in this case the "resto mod" route. As the car stands now, it needs little work, but it had Recaro seats, and a new stereo/speakers, so there is some more cost to invest to get it to restored. It does need a paint job too, but that's a given regardless which way I go with the car. I think Jackboxx's suggestion is best -- perhaps I'll leave the block as is and send the head/carbs to a Sunbelt or Rebello for some work and leave it at that. That will enhance the fun factor, but not modify the engine to the point of overdone. 5 years ago, I would have went with F54 block, etc., but I did buy this particular Z because the numbers match. Add to that all these "analysts" speculating that the 1970-1973 240Z is high on the collectibility scale, and you get my dilemma. Maybe I need a second Z to be the subject of my modification wishes.....
  17. Jackboxx, Yes, my thinking exactly! Unfortunately, I don't have the original 4-spd, which caused me some lost nights of sleep! That's why I figured some under hood changes were fine. I mean, a numbers matching car is still worth more than one that isn't, but generally won't be devalued much if the original engine is slightly modified. Since I don't have the 4-spd, it will never be completely original, although I could always get one from eBay. I just figured the path of least resistance, so a modified original engine is the best of both worlds. I will not butcher this thing, I am into keeping stuff as original as possible, but I do believe a slight massage of the lump isn't going to devalue it much.
  18. Maybe I am just lazy or sentimental. If I pull it and store it, I'd go the Bryan Little route with the 280ZX motor with a P79 or P90 head. With my family (2 little girls and my wife) needing time, that's less of a realistic option. I suppose even easier route (assuming block/pistons/rings are fine) is to just send the head to Sunbelt or Rebello and tell them to give the best they can while staying streetable.
  19. All: Still doing some information gathering, so my apologies. I have posted a few times about my desire to hop up my 1972 240Z, but I want to keep the stock block/head (numbers match). I could just go with a nice cylinder head job, but I figured if I have the head off, perhaps some other mods are in order. I don't want to remove the block and have it rebored (unless I have to based on my inspection), but I thought of adding a L26/L28 crank/rods to get added displacement. I know it can be done, and not too much of a pain it appears from the Honsowetz books. However, I noticed Rebello sells a 2.7L motor that obviously uses the L28D to get the extra displacement. The cost of the motor I think is around $5K, more than I want to part with. I think the head job would be around $2K, so could I get an L28D crank and slap that sucker in? What kind of rods would I need? Would the pistons need to be changed (worried about them exceeding the height)? Any thoughts? Should I just stick to keeping it a 2.4L and just have the head done?
  20. I should add that I'd be looking for 180 - 190 rwhp if possible
  21. Arne, Thanks for the feedback, I know Bryan Little's site well! Unfortunately, I want to keep numbers matching. Otherwise, his site was what kept me motivated to someday get back into the Z game! I know these motors fairly well, I only have 148K miles on it, so I don't think it needs to be re-bored. When I tear it down that should indicate whether or not I should. Assuming I don't need a rebore, and I want to keep my numbers matching, am I still crazy or does this sound like a reasonable plan to getting some more oomph out of my 240?
  22. All: New to the forum, made a few posts. I am 20+ years out of the Z game, but recently purchased a 1972 240Z, numbers matching. The previous owner kept it mostly original, but did add a 5-speed and a 4.11 R180. The car needs a rebuild, it doesn't have spunk to it. I considered doing a resto on it, but given the tranny and rear-end, perhaps a "resto-mod" or stealth Z is in order. I considered the idea of the Rebello 2.7L, but searching this board indicates this is a $4,000- $5,000 expense :eek: So I started thinking I could do this on my own if I were to obtain a 260 crank and rods, add higher compression pistons, and maybe have Rebello do an Improved Touring job on the head. Yes, this is only a 2.6L, but for maybe $2,000 plus my time, I am thinking I could come close to the 200 or so HP Rebello advertises. Any thoughts? Am I a nut? I don't want to pull the block and rebore if I can avoid it, my funds are low. Thanks in advance!
  23. Wow! I am in almost the same boat -- 1972 240Z with 148,000 miles, needs work. I can do it, but with 2 little kids, no chance I have the time. I also have a 1966 XKE that takes some of my attention I want someone to do the work, preferably with a bit more power, but not a monster motor. I want something like the Rebello 2.7L....I am in NJ, so the cost to ship my motor to CA is going to be expensive, as would the rebuild. Anyone know a NJ equivalent?
  24. I have a stock, numbers matching 1972 240Z. It has 148,000 miles, so it needs a rebuild or refresh. The previous owner installed a Motorsport Auto 5 speed and 4.11 R180, amongst other things. Originally, I wanted to restore to original, but now I am thinking more "resto-mod". I want more power out of the stock motor, but I want to keep the numbers matching. Rebello has a nice 2.7L that retains stock block/head, good for about 200HP, which is fine with me. Unfortunately, I suspect this will cost $3000+, which is not what I want to spend (I also have a 1966 XKE that I have to refresh). Any thoughts as to extracting more HP out of a stock 240Z motor? I know I can mill the head and add a new cam, etc. I would bet that would yield at best 170 or HP with careful planning. I'd like something a little more, but it's been 20 years since my last Z and things have changed, so any advice? Rich
  25. I have a 1972 numbers matching 240Z, I'd like to keep it that way. However, the previous owner put in a Motorsport Auto 5 speed, a 4.11 R180, and some other minor mods, so what I want to do is a "resto-mod". Essentially, I want to keep it as original as possible (same engine, etc.). I see that Rebello has a nice 2.7L increased stroke motor using your original 240Z block to keep the numbers matching. I suspect that this will run $3000+, which is more than I'd like to spend. Bryan Little's Z Car Garage is an awesome site and clearly shows that a backyard mechanic can extract some nice HP with little $$. My Z has 148,000 miles on it, so I want to do a rebuild, but I would like a little more power. I know milling the head has magical powers on a Z, but does anyone else know of other tricks I could do while maintaining the original block/head combo? Rich
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