rdefabri

This is fantastic - I just acquired 7 of the teardrop hubs, I plan to restore them in due time!

Stephen, Thanks - always good to have a backup channel!

I will try, if they are available, then there should be no reason they can't get the parts. Do appreciate the post - this has been bugging me since I switched mine out.

Yea, take a pass. Even for NJ, that's a bomb.

I kept my original just in case I could rebuild it. Only thing I need is a parts source - my local Nissan dealer isn't much help.

Dumb q - why are there so many Z's in the Northwest? Particularly Oregon? Maybe it's me, but seems like a Z cluster up there.

Wow - too bad there's not too many Z specialists in NJ, or I'd be there tomorrow! BTW - from your avatar, your car looks like Arne's in yellow (similar rims and air dam).

Make sure you identify WHY the engine is burning oil. A Datsun L-engine has an almost bulletproof lower end. Assuming nothing catastrophic, at worst you need rings. Likely culprit is head or head gasket - pretty easy to have the head removed and reworked on these cars. Save yourself the cost of a new engine (especially if this is a numbers matching car) and definitely DO NOT PURCHASE ANYTHING FROM THAT VENDOR!!!

Search the boards - A few of us had fuel pump issues, it's pretty easy to a) determine that it is and change it IF it is.

Please, don't! As you say, you don't want to do anything permanent to change a nice car. For me, as I was a previous owner of a '76 280Z, the bumpers have never been that obtrusive to me. In addition, I think they've "aged" well - they aren't really all the bad. Car is nice as is IMHO

I DIG it!! I tried to light mine up coming out of a gas station - I know I could pretty easily, but I got a little nervous You have any engine work done or is it mostly stock?

Good luck with it. While rough, it can be done. You'll find these cars are incredibly easy to work on, so if you are a good DIY person, you'll get her in shape in no time.

Interesting...I am looking to revert to the original steel wheel (if I can find them). While I like the look of the shorter tire, I am more a fan of the hub cap / higher tire look of the time period.

Arne, I have these rims on my car (the Appliance 14x7). I am running a 205/60-14 tire (Dunlops). I don't know if I could be much help though - I bought the car from the PO this way, so I have no idea of any offset or suspension changes. I do think my car sits a little lower, but then that could be due to the need for replacement struts. Let me know if there's something you need me to check. *** EDIT - I see this is an old thread, so perhaps your decision was already made. Offer still stands though - any help, let me know.

I owned a green '76 as a kid myself - the car has become a legend amongst the friends I still keep in touch with. Post some pics and good luck with it!!

Ok - now I'm mildly embarrassed! It was the fuse, it was blown. Not only should I have known that would be the place to start, I now recall when that fuse was blown. I was crimping some wires together, and the crimping tool contacted the fuse. I saw it spark, but didn't think it was anything. That was definitely when the fuse blew because everything was fine up until that day. In any event, I truly appreciate all the help from everyone. I can honestly say I may have been looking for some time if I wasn't told to check the fuse. Can't believe I missed it, but I guess I could blame old age, right??? Thanks again, it's all working proper now!!

Dave, Thanks - keeping my fingers crossed that it's a fuse. I'll also rewire the red / blue radio wire accordingly...it's possible that I did what Enrique said (e.g., viewed from bottom, it's reversed on top - D'OH!). When you say check the switch - you mean the combination switch?

Yep, you guys convinced me I should go with the better speakers. I may actually see if the speaker in the speaker box the PO made will fit.

No parking lights. No rear lights either...but brake lights when I tap them. I'll check this. I realize someone said they are flimsy, but it was working fine prior. Doesn't mean it didn't get roasted, so I will check it. This is where I run into trouble. I see why connecting directly to the fuse box wasn't optimal. But I don't know how to get the single R/B wire from the radio into the circuit. Can I join it where the main R/B joins in at the fuse box? It looked as though it was the top right fuse, which is why I connected there.

Enrique, I can't dim the radio illumination, if that's what you meant (I believe it is), so I'll start at the rheostat. I connected only 1 speaker, so I know I am good there. The radio is far from perfect, but because it's OEM, it's perfect for this app On another post, I had alerted readers that I am an electrical moron. I can figure some things out, but I am all thumbs otherwise. I am smart enough to put wire "a" to wire "b", but testing things isn't my strength. It hampers me tremendously, which is why I am asking loads of questions. A point to note - I had a single red/blue coming out of the back of the radio. I stripped the edge of the wire, and slid it around the top right fuse (where the red/blue wire from the main circuit terminated). When this was not attached, the gauges didn't light either, so I suspect I must have done something wrong prior. Now, I disconnected no connectors. I only connected the newly installed OEM connectors to the appropriate unused connectors in the dash. I also know that I cut no wires that weren't explicitly radio-related. So either I have a short or I did something improper. Given the electrical moron label I wear, I think it's the latter. I'll start at the rheostat and work backwards.

Checked the rheostat...adjusted both ways, still don't see any gauge illumination. I'll try it with the lights off. I know these cars aren't noted for it's bright gauges, but it was pretty dark when I did it last. ***** EDIT - just checked, they aren't illuminated! Darn it, I won one battle only to encounter another.

I've posted on other threads about my OEM radio install - I've gotten 99% of it done. Radio works, speaker connected, antenna goes up/down and even the dial is illuminated (with jump to proper fuse). Interestingly, my gauges don't appear to be illuminating. I say "appear" because the car isn't running or started. I simply have accessory on. However, my front lights go on, and the radio illiuminates. So dumb question - do the gauges only illuminate when you start? That can't be the case, but I am just checking. Note, they worked fine before I installed the radio, but I'd be shocked if I knocked something out or cut something - I didn't. And, as I noted, I CAN get the radio illuminated. Thanks, Rich

Enrique, Thanks for clarifying this! I am glad I got it resolved as well - few things are worse than feeling like you've done something wrong and not knowing how to fix it.

Success! The radio is in, the antenna motor works. I could even hear the radio (although the speaker was not hooked up - I am guessing there was some interference or something). I found the original connector for supplying power to the radio after fishing around a little Few other q's - can I replace the antenna without swapping out the whole motor assembly? The top of the antenna is cut off, and I also noticed that the antenna doesn't actually raise / lower (although the motor does turn). Also, anyone know where I can get an OEM speaker? I could mount one of the speakers in the car now, but it's not really correct, so my preference would be to obtain an OEM. Thanks again!

Figured it out - the slider assembly that attaches to the back of the HCP was bent slightly. Bent it back and it's now - no bulge!