rdefabri

Yes, I saw that - I actually believe I have the mag, which is why I didn't buy it. However, since I can't find it, I may just go that route.

Same here - way too many children's toys

Haha! Or forgetful...depending on how you look at it! Actually, I was posting on a Ferrari board, and someone razzed me about the Z. Not insulting, just that he thought the 240Z was overrated. I recalled that there was an article and found the thread / my original post.

bump on this one - anyone have this article?

Always wanted a non-turbo, slicktop with a manual tranny. Z32 is definitely my second favorite of the Z line!

A guy on the Ferrari board I post to had one of these and did a sublime restoration. They are easy to work on and, along with the VW Bus, are considered one of the first "minivans". It certainly isn't a hot as a Z, but I do think it's desirable in a quirky way.

Wow! what a great story...

I don't know for sure, but I was told I had a BRE spoiler on mine before I bought it. I was told by a person on this board that saw my car, another from someone at a Z-Car show I went to. Apparently they could tell by the bolt holes drilled into the rear hatch - so it's an assumption that it is, in fact, bolted. Since I don't have the spoiler, I don't know how water was prevented from getting in...sorry

So based on this, you'd be looking at about 180-185 rwhp, which in a 2,400 lb car would be quite spirited!

Thanks, gents - I am sure I'll find what I am looking for on one of these sites!

This is a picture of the connector coming from the choke and fasten seat belts lights on the fuse box cover. I need the female end this connects to...any idea where to get it?

I'll get one up here tonight - have to grab the camera

The previous owner(s) of my car changed the defroster switch and removed the fasten seat belts warning light on the console. I replaced the console piece (I think it's called the fuse box cover) with a correct one, but I am missing the female connector that hooks up to the male connector emanating from the choke and fasten seat belt lights. Does anyone sell the female connectors?

Steve, Yes, I figured there wasn't a 9MM - I tried the 8MM - 1.25, no dice. I am wondering if the English is the way to go...it's worth a try.

Ok, make sense - how do you know which cable corresponds to the control levers? Someone made a comment about marking them, which should be easy enough (activate the lever to see which cable it moves, then mark) - is that correct?

I am a poster at Jalopy Journal - some of those guys are magicians, they can turn tin into gold...but that 356 is so far gone it's not even worth it.

Damn - I wish I'd seen this before getting "adventurous"...I just scored an original Hitachi radio and in my excitement (and haste), I removed the 4 screws and tugged at the HCP before realizing the sliders had cables attached. Not wishing to damage anything, I re-attached the HCP, but it looked like there was some resistance on the top slider (almost like a bulge in the HCP). Like an idiot, I pressed on the bulge and proceeded to crack my HCP. Minor, but cracked nonetheless and I am pizzed. I am a moron for doing that. In any event, as king moron, much of what's being described above isn't coming to me - anyone have pictures as a reference point? Where do I disconnect the slider cables - behind the HCP or down below at the blower unit?

Well either I am crazy or it's not 8mm - that's a knock on me, not anyone else as I am frustrated at the moment (I cracked my dash panel that has the vent controls by being completely stupid....grrrrr). Now, I have a 5-speed. I'd assume it was from a 280Z, but IIRC you can fit a BW T5 transmission pretty easily. Would that mean that the threads on the shift lever are English rather than metric? The 8MM hex nut (both in 1.0 and 1.25 thread pitch) did NOT fit. To make things worse, I do own a Datsun/Nissan 4-speed tranny from a 1972 240Z that I planned to put into my car. The 8MM hex nut didn't fit on that either. So - it's either 9MM (do they even make 9MM nuts? I couldn't find them at HD) or it's English. I am inclined to think it's 9MM, but again, I couldn't find that size at HD. I am in an angered mood, so I am not thinking properly - my apologies in advance if I am posting something obvious, but my judgment is clouded at the moment

Wow - great story, and a seriously great piece of automotive history. Your story gives me hope that I may one day have a "crown jewel" piece! Much luck with it!

Carl, You may have told this before, and I don't want to hijack the thread, but how'd you score the BRE Baja Z? What's the story behind how / where you found it, what condition, etc. It's long been a dream of mine to own a significant racing vehicle with provenance (primarily a classic F1, IndyCar or 60's era slingshot dragster), so I am curious!

RIP and Godspeed - we lost a true gentleman and a titan of his craft. How many lives this man touched from his charitable donations and Hole in the Wall Camps, amongst other things, is immeasurable.

Same here...of course mine is now "free wheeling" (stripped threads in the base - covered in separate thread). Will's aluminum base would have come in handy when the factory originally manufactured these

Right - as I can be all thumbs, that's a worry. I liked the idea of the insert - there must be something that's plastic that could work. What if I took the helicoil and secured it with something like putty? I have the mighty putty stuff, it works great for bonding materials...just a thought.

Arne, Which in the picture is the factory knob? I am certain I have the factory original, and it looks like the knob in the left of your pic. Steve - thanks for the suggestion, that's what I (think) am looking for. My threads are almost completely gone - it looks smooth in the hole, which supports Arne's comment that this is plastic. I'd just have to install the insert from what I can see...

The threads on my shift knob have been stripped, and essentially the knob just rolls around on the actual shift lever. Is there any way to remove the threads from the knob itself? Do I need to rethread the metal or is there another (or better way)?