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Well I thought that, but I pulled the line from the pump to the carbs, and no fuel pumped out. So that means the fuel isn't getting there from the pump. So it's either some sort of vaporization (doubtful), a clog in the lines from the tank to the fuel pump (possible, but odd) or for some reason the pump isn't being actuated properly by the cam (possible). I would have thought it was complete pump failure, but I did make it work, so I know fundamentally it's sound.

OK - I've found the source of the problem, but not the cause. To those who said it's fuel starvation - you were correct. For the life of me I couldn't figure out what was going on, so I went back to checking the carbs. I took the float bowl covers off and sure enough - they were as dry as the desert. This couldn't be possible, I knew that the fuel pump was working - I checked it! However, I worked my way back and tried the fuel pump next. Bingo - the pump was not pumping any fuel. That explained the empty float bowls. I know I am not crazy, that pump was working just last week, so I took the pump off, disassembled it - nothing looked off. The diaphragm was fine, the valves were clear of sediment, no major issues from what I could see. I moved the lever to determine if the pump was functioning properly, and it was pushing/sucking air. To confirm, I put the fuel hose into a tank of gas and began pumping - it was shooting out gas like a geyser...so the pump functions FINE. The next thing I checked were the hoses - both were brittle and there was a hole on the hose from the fuel filter to the pump, so I assumed that no vacuum was being created and that fuel couldn't be sucked from the filter into the lines to the carbs. I replaced the hoses, re-assembled everything hoping it would work - no dice. I cranked and cranked, and got nothing. I checked the float bowls - again, dry. I removed the hose coming from the pump to the line feeding the carbs and cranked again - nothing. So the issue lies at the fuel pump - it is not pumping fuel to the carbs. This is absolutely crazy because a) I know the pump worked when I checked it last week and I made it work by actuating the lever manually. Some research indicates that low pressure between the pump the gas tank can cause the fuel to vaporize in the supply line if the engine temp or ambient temp is high. The day my car stalled, it was extremely hot, although the engine temp was normal. I highly doubt this is the issue, but I suppose it's possible. As I said, I know the pump works if I move the lever manually - is it possible that there is a problem in the head or with the cam? I am happy I pinpointed the issue, but still perplexed as to what is causing the problem. Any suggestions?

I'll be keenly interested in how you make out. What's never been clear to me was if Rebello or Sunbelt could build a head and ship to you as exchange for your old head (CORE) - I am assuming they do, but I don't see any information on either site that this is an option.

I thought the cost for the Rebello 2.7 is about $5K with dyno testing, so it's an attractive option. However, I can't believe a Sunbelt head would cost anything close to that. Let's make an assumption of $1,500 - that's still way cheaper than $5K, and if he does his own work, he's got a stock block, numbers matching 240Z that puts out 200HP at the crank. The Rebello 2.7L make about 225HP at the crank, but it's alot more money and effort for an extra 25HP IMHO. In a perfect world, I think the Rebello 2.7 would the way to go as there's a level of comfort knowing everything has been checked. However, if that's not a possibility, I think the GRM/Sunbelt head plan works almost as well at probably half the price/pain.

Sad. I was involved in another thread speaking about motorcycles - which I've ridden since I am a 7 year old (dirt bikes, then graduated to street bikes when old enough). Too often, I see young kids on balls out GSXRs and Ninjas riding WAY too fast for any public road. In NJ, we have the "Garden State Parkway" - a major highway that stretches most of the State. I've seen kids blasting at speeds well over 100mph (probably going closer to 120 or so) with no fear of what could happen. My dad was a drag racer - also told me to keep the foolishness off the road and do you racing at the track. Not all kids are as fortunate as I am, but you have to wonder why we aren't doing more to teach children of the dangers. RIP.

xray - will do. I can't thank everyone enough...this is helpful, and at some point I think we'll pinpoint the issue!

I am surprised so many people suggest a new engine. For alot of us, that's not practical or cost efficient. IMHO, the GRM article was an eye opener - if all one has to do is remove a head and send to Sunbelt to get a 200HP at the crank L24, why not? IIRC, Bryan Little's junkyard Z (L28, shaved P90 head) was putting just about the same, maybe slightly more. Don't know the cost of the Sunbelt work, but as Xray said, it can't be as expensive as a new engine or engine work. I say go the Sunbelt route. It's the same route I plan on doing...once I can get my car running again

Mike, I won't change anything, but checking should rule it out. I have taken the plugs out and checked for spark. It's there - as to the strength, I haven't tested that, but I think given that it's been running until recently, it should be fine. I'll test, see if the output from the coil is within range. If it is, that rules out that. I know the wires are good, the plugs are good, but I've never tested the coil. Assuming that's not the issue, then it's back to fuel in my mind. I am stuck on the fact that the fuel was nearly on empty when it stalled. I did put gas in, and there's fuel being pumped, but I seem to remember something similar happened last year.

Well, well - to my surprise, it's NOT points - it has a Pertronix Ignitor under the Dizzy, so I was caught off guard. So I'll need to check that in addition to the coil...

Fantastic work!

Ok, long day yesterday = kuncklehead in the morning :stupid: My car has points, I was looking at the coil, and I knew as much. My bad... I will take off the Distributor cap and check the points for wear and gap. I'll also check to see that the coil is operating properly.

Post a video! Who did the engine work - was it the Z-Doc?

Yes, everything is fine here. Did not check that. However, it has a good charge even after stalling, so I did not suspect the alternator is an issue. Did not check that either, but I'll make it a point to do so. Aftermarket, unsure of manufacturer. Label is not on the module, but it does say "Made in USA", so I don't think it's a ZX module. Need to see if this is the cause, didn't once suspect the ignition, but the points made here are sensible. Thanks for the advice - I will report back what I find...

Wow, bummer - George Carlin was one of my faves. I remember his 80's "comeback" after he had a few heart attacks, as biting as ever. What a great comic, he will be missed.

Kalitta Air was quite a success. Having been a lifelong drag race fan, I always knew he had the freight business, but it wasn't until I began traveling as part of my job that I knew the scope. I always see Kalitta Air jets at Newark Airport - always smiling to myself that I knew a little more about them then my fellow passengers.

Took the float bowl covers off - there's fuel there. I've checked the fuel filter, looks clear, although that's just a visual. I did not take the fuel filter off. Since it's definitely not getting fuel, and there's fuel in the float bowls, it must be something related to the carbs. I am not an SU expert, but they are similar to the CV carbs I had on my Harleys, and I rebuilt quite a few of those. Since there's fuel in the bowl, then it would mean that the needle wasn't lifting from the jet to let fuel in or there's a clog somewhere. I do agree with you though, the likelihood that both are clogged is slim, and since I could only spray ether into one carb at a time (and the car STILL ran), it would support what your comment about running on 3 cylinders - it may be crap, but it should still run (or at least cough/sputter when starting. Very frustrating, I can't pinpoint it and I am sure everything up through the carbs is fine. I've got spark, I've got gas in the bowls, I can turn it over on ether, there's full charge to the battery. Same thing happened to me last year, and I couldn't start the car for the rest of the summer....

Reviving an old thread - I have something similar in my '72 240Z, but the control unit sits on top of the center console, just aft of the shifter, ahead of the ash tray. It has a snowflake on the knob and an embossed graphic of the United States with a logo that says "Factory Air". There are wires connected to it, but there's no switch to turn on a compressor, nor does it work as far as I can tell. I know ARA and Frigi-King were the period correct dealer options. I've had a devil of a time identifying this - any ideas? I'll try to post some pics later...

Enrique, No - I haven't checked that. I just checked again, I had the car running as long as I kept spraying the starter fluid, so even my thought of loss compression is debunked by that. So if fuel is getting all the way to the float bowls, then I suppose it's possible it's not actually getting to the venturi/combustion chamber. I can actually lift the piston, so I am assuming that if fuel is getting through, it should be getting to the venturi - could it be a clogged jet?

Mike, It will run if I keep spraying starter fluid. My guess is that I ran out of gas and whatever was being pulled through the fuel lines is the culprit. I do have gas in the float bowls, so I know delivery is happening, it's just not igniting. My car has always been a hard starter. Assuming that's not the case - is it possible anything is causing compression to drop? That's a long shot I suppose, as the car normally runs fine, but I am perplexed....I'll try to continue to spray starter fluid until it goes.

Like Poindexter, I too go to the Summer Nationals every year - since 1970, when I was 2. I've known of the Kalitta family since I am a child, and remember Scott's introduction to the sport in the early 80's. This is a tragedy, and my prayers to his family. Englishtown is one of the great, classic tracks, one that's been under fire by the local "NIMBYs" - this won't help. The problem with the runoff area is that it bumps up against Texas Road, so there's not much they can do to extend it unless they put an overpass (certainly possible). The Napp family are pros, and class acts. I hope this doesn't impact their fight. However, it's all irrelevant when considering a young man is gone....RIP Scott Kalitta, you will be missed

Battery is good, still charged nicely and the car's starter turns fine. I was decelerating when the car died. I thought at first I ran out of gas - that's what it felt like, and my tank was low. However, I did have an emergency tank (my wife brought) and put some 2 gallons in, so I know it's not empty. Yet still, after many turns, no dice. It's now been sitting in front of my house for about 5 hours, I just tried to start, and I had no luck.

Had my car out for a drive today - everything was great, beautiful weather! Anyway, while driving, my car suddenly stalled and I could not restart it. I pushed it into a parking space and tried, in vain, to get it running again. I sprayed starter fluid into the carbs, it coughs, but doesn't catch once the ether is burned off. As I had a similar issue last year (never identified), I have checked the following: Getting spark? - YES Fuel pump working? - YES Carbs getting gas? - YES In fact, as I said, when I spray ether into the carbs, the ether ignites and the car will turn over, but for some reason it doesn't stay running. I never checked the fuel filter, but the carbs ARE getting fuel - quite a bit, honestly. I thought it possible it was flooded, but since I was driving around and it was running fine, I don't think that's the case. Ultimately, I had to get towed home...car still won't start. Any ideas????

Yep - I posted this in a previous thread, a few months back!

Didn't affect the high RPMs at stop. I greased them, still high revs (around 2000 - 2500 rpms, then slowly drops to about 1500). Pedal doesn't feel like it's sticking (I put my foot under it to lightly pull back).

I tried to grease the dogbone cups - nothing. The gas pedal trick is worth trying, but worn shafts seems logical.