240kman

Hey guys, this subject is right up my alley, A 24OK fanatic that runs a suspension and steering shop. First thing to clear up is the difference between urethane and nolathane. The "spf" part numbers are super pro urethane bushes, and in my professional opinion are the only way to go when applying urethane. I had my castor bars machined with extended thread tp make them adjustable, this gave me abt 3 or 4 deg, before the wheels hit on the guards, Adjustable strut tops will give you more castor as well as more camber. Noltec in Australia make the only descent strut top that I have found, they have good adjustment and come in solid plate form. I recommend abt 5 deg positive castor if you an get it. 1 deg neg camber is good comprimise between handleing and tyre wear. A couple of mm toe in for the road. The whitline bar on the front is great, I have one on mine, I havn't tried the rear bar on a K , although my R30 has one std, it handles good. I wouln't go to strong on the rear bar though, it can mess up the whole independent idea. A rear bar will loosen the back up, so be carefull. I run King springs all round, though the front wasn't low enough so I cut a bit off ( I didn't say that) this is not recommended by Kings. They did become untrapped. The rear springs are a bit heavier than normal, out of our old speedway 240k, I'd have to check their rate. If you wan't a really good shock Koni are the go, but are twice the price of Monroe or Kyb. monroe and kyb are good for the money. If you need any help finding these parts or want any advice, I'm keen to help any 240k enthuisiast.

A couple of tips from someone who does this sort of thing for living. -To brake a tierod end taper you neen to hit the steering arm on the side where the taper goes through it. Use a descent size hammer and leave the nut on incase you miss. I don't recommend Forks, all they do is wreck the boots. A good ball joint seperator is handy, for a tidy finish. -There are brands of ball joints in OZ that are coated that don't get surface rust, I can look them up for you if need. -When tightning gland nuts on struts they need to be super tight, tighten the nut then tap it down with a punch ( Be carefull on the shaft) Then tighten again. Repeat steps again.

Thanks again for the information guys, I'm totally overwhelmed, by the information supplied and the effort gone to. JIM- these pictures are a great help, if I can't source these parts I might have a go at replicating them. One other question, the book of "chronological listing of skylines", is this book still available?

As a supension specialist, I Agree that urethane can give you a harsher ride. It does depond on what bushes you want to replace. I'm not sure where you live or what sort of car you are talking about, I assume a Z car. In Australia we have some good urethane brands and some crap brands. Good quality urethane is good on sway bar pins and things, but you can't go past origianal rubber for comfort. My Genuine Nissan dealer can get some of these bushes.

Check the linkage system from the throtle It may be allowing the butterflys to stay open causing high idle and running on.

Thanks stephen, at least I know I'm not chasing something that doesn't exist. Hopefully someone might no where to find the mechanisms.

Does anyone know if c110 skylines or 240k-GT's etc, came out with electric/power windows, mainly for the 2dr version. I wan't to put some in my 240k-GL coupe, I have found that the main contol switch from a c210 skyine centre consul fits perfect in the consul of the 240K. There is a lift out blank panel in the 240k consul that this switch bolts into, the screw holes are there and everything. This makes me think they were thinking about bringing out electric windows or they came out in other models and not the ones in Australia. If anyone can share some light on this topic I would appreciate it.

Tom- I'll try and get some photos together, this could take a little while, my computer skills are not up to scratch yet. I am working on a project K but it's a little slow going. It's been painted and is on the way back together. As for parts I can help you out there No worries.

Alfadog- Tailshafts are the same, so that's O.k. You will need to swap the speedo drives from the auto to the manual if you leave the auto diff in. (The speedo drive is the piece the cable screws onto in the box end, the 10mm bolt holds it in.) You may want to consider swapping diffs anyway. The 3.9 ratio from the manual gives you better pick-up than the 3.5 ratio from the auto. As for the pressure plate height most 240ks use the lower one, It's only normally a problem if someone has mucked around with it and put a clutch from a Z car or 260C etc. Just compare the new one with the old one before you start. I would just order a 240k clutch and see what happens. One other little thing you could replace are the gearstick bushes, as the are normally a bit sloppy. You will have to get those from Nissan, and try and talk to someone there who's prepared to look them up on microfische, some spare parts people don't like looking for the old stuff.

G'day Alfadog, I just registered into the Classic Z car club, by the look of your picture I take it you are refering to a 240K. This being the case I can help you. I have done this conversion numerous times (Being a 240k fanatic). The best thing about 240k's is that everything is so easily converted. Tailshaft, speedo cable, cross-member and mount are all interchangeable. Repco sells the spigot bushes(abt $5). Be carefull buying clutch kit, there are 2 different height Throw-out bearing carriers and the pressure-plate needs to suit. You will need (of course) a mastercylinder (repco), line (second hand) and slave cylinder(repco). The pedals are easy, the clutch pedal mount is already there, just slide it on. The brake pedals can be swapped. Rpm do a heavy duty street clutch kit at a reasonable price. I don't usually machine the flywheel (I'm a tight arse) but any machine shop can do it. One thing to remember is to join the Neutral safety switch wires together, otherwise she won't go. A clutch aligner is handy although not completely nessesary, any old datsun imput shaft does the job. If you need any other info just ask. I can also help you out with parts, I have a datsun graveyard, with abt 10 240k's. Datsun240kman@yahoo.com.au