MrMoonshineMan

well, i checked the rear u joints, and there isn't anything similar to the front propeller shaft u-joint, the rear ones are all tight. but it feels like theres a prob in the differential, its got a looseness, a clunk, like i had gotten from the u-joint, but its inside the differential. is this normal, what can i do?

well things went great (mostly) got the new joints, took out the old ones, put in the new ones, and viola, it no longer does what i was talking about, so i'm mighty happy, although it still doesn't run along as smoothly as any other car i've had:( is this just the way a Z goes? with new struts, new tires, and now the prob with the u-joint fixed, i had imagined a much smoother ride. thank you all very much for your help.

gentlemen, it looks like we may have a winner. after reading your posts, i started reading in my haynes book, and lo and behold, under propeller shaft-universal joints, it says, "wear is characterized by a 'clonk', metallic squeaking and grating/shrieking sounds." which, if you all remember any of my old posts, my car has plenty. so i crawled under the car, gripped the propeller shaft before and after the foreward u-joint and gave it a twist, it has a whole lot of play, the rear one has none. i have very little money to buy a new propeller shaft assembly. so now my question is: does anyone have a picture WITH labels of the whole u-joint? cuz the book just starts spewing out things like race, spider, journals. and i have no idea what they're talking about. thanks!

so i've been having a shaking in the rear, felt like my tires needed to be balanced, so i checked them out, and each tire is missing quite a bit of rubber, making them out of round, so i decided to get new tires. took away some of the shaking, but the majority is still there, i was wondering what i should do to fix this. it shakes just slightly when i coast at high speeds, but shakes pretty bad when i put on more gas. so i guess its not tires, its not struts cuz i just changed the cartridges, what is it now? i'm all open. thanks.

okay, so i raised it up, put it in first, and let the wheels roll. the noise is not coming from any wheels/brakes, it seems to be coming from the middle of the car, its a rubbing noise, so i thought there could just be something hanging down onto the drive shaft, but i can't feel anything, heres how the noise progresses: i get a few sharp pings, then the grinding/rubbing noise happens, goes away when i press the clutch. it doesn't sound like the transmission is disintegrating(maybe just wishful thinking), although it looks like there has been a lot of fluid leaking out of this cable hooking into the transmission, i guess its the spedometer? what next, guys?

its been raining pretty hard ever since i posted, so i haven't had much opportunity, although i know its not the brakes, i'll go through the suggestions during the weekend and check back with the results. thanks.

i know that you're all going to tell me to take it to a shop because its tough to diagnose a funny noise without hearing it, but i really have no money to get it checked out. this happens sometimes when i'm driving, usually only when accelerating: i get a noise like something is rubbing very fast on an irregular surface, or maybe like a metal plate is shaking loose. it seems to be coming from the front right side of the engine. i jacked it up and checked things out, but nothing is loose. it is rythmic, and gets louder/faster when i put on more gas, when i let go of the gas, it goes away. like i said, i have very little money, but plenty of free time, please gimme something to look into! thanks.

Maybe my probelm is related: i have had a clicking or tapping sound going on for awhile, i checked the exhaust gasket, and the muffler nuts, but everything was ok, so i started looking for other things to fix, then, a few days ago whilst driving around, my engine began losing power at around 2,500 RPM, while the RPM's go higher. it feels like someone steps on the clutch at 2500. i haven't driven it since, and haven't had time to check things out yet, but i'd really like to see if our problems are related, and if they can be fixed easily and cheaply.

male. the majority of the z's i've see driving around have been driven by women, tho'. there was the green 260 up in tahoe, the tan 240 on the freeway, the blue 280 on the other freeway, the purple (yech) one getting the ticket, yep, all women.

roger that, manual says 120, top. some folks in my Kiwanis club told me stories about going 150-ish, stock, but i'm sure we all agree thats BS:)

um, from the last time i adjusted my carbs, i seem to remember that turning them COUNTERclockwise (when looking down on the carbs) leans the mixture. of course, i had very little sleep last night, so....

whoops, i thought i had posted this already. i have a 1973 240Z. everything besides the tranny is original, as far as i know.

btw, while we're talking about the igniton, what is the difference between a #6 and a #7? i went to the store to pick up another ignition switch, they had two different ones listed for the 240Z, i got the #7, which matched mine but the number 6 wasn't in stock so i couldn't take a look, whats diff. about the #6?

yeah, my oil pressure gauge is working fine now guys, thanks. hmmm, so then its most likely my temp sending unit itself thats acting up? its almost brand new (its different from the original, but the paper it came with said it had just been redesigned but would work perfectly), is there a way i can test it? anybody have any ideas what that other dangling wire might be to? btw, the outside of the temp sending unit is grounded, so i don't think it is a problem with a good ground. thanks!

someone tried to steal my Z out of my driveway the other night. thats right, peeling paint, dented fender, scratched windshield and all. lucky for me i had taken out the battery, taken out all the spark plugs, and had the coil sitting on my dining room table:) nonetheless, the guy thought jamming a screwdriver into my ignition would work, really tore up my ignition (and arm rest for some reason). he left my cd player for some reason, strange. makes me sad to know that we've got car thiefs (even idiot ones) up in my mountains.

ok, so when i ground the temp sending unit wire (what i hope is the right wire, as there are a few dangling unmarked) the gauge goes crazy, it'll jump up past 250, hang around in the middle, go to less than 120, just cruise back and forth, everything, what do you folks think this suggests? btw, the wire i'm using does not spark when i ground it, there is another red/orange wire very near to it that does spark and blows out a fuse when its grounded, should i be using that one? it doesn't seem to have any effect on the guage.

hey thanks, works great now.

any suggestions would be appreciated, anything at all.

the guy who had my z before me just put a short length of hose connecting those two nipple'd holes to the far left. is it doing anything bad or wrong to my car to have them connected like that? thanks.

well, Precision Z, a total Z garage near me, told me to put in tranny fluid, so that it covers the big ball on the tip. i'd love to hear what some of the z-heads on this board have found works well.

hey that looks really good, the guy i bought my Z off of decided he wanted to put a cd player in there, and for some reason felt he needed to snap the silver lining that goes around the heater controls and all that. he then made something of his own to put around it, and tried to melt it onto the heater controls. what a mess, luckily there are quite a few pick'n'pulls around me loaded with Z's. did you have to modify anything on your panel to get it in there?

so i've been fixing my door, and i'm going to be replacing the latch, but while i was at it, i decided to see if there was anything i could do for the inside door handle. its supposed to be pulled tight by the rod with the spring on it, right? well, it is very loose, it works alright, but i don't want to put the door back together and have it rattling and maybe coming off entirely. how can i tighten that rod so that my handle is tight? i hope i made sense in all that. does this maybe have something to do with not being able to lock my door easily? thanks!

If you do not get my email, i'm pretty sure i can take it off your hands.

hey there, finally got my car running pretty smoothly, however, the water temp gauge doesn't work at all, and the oil pressure stays around 0 when idling. with the water temp gauge, i'd appreciate it if someone could take a pic of that area in front of the engine, as the guy who i bought it from had no respect for proper wiring at all, and i suspect he just stuck wires whereever he felt like. how would i go about checking it out? with the oil pressure, i've read over what other folks have said about it, what would i do after checking it by putting it to ground? can i buy the sending unit from anyold auto parts store? ok, thanks for all your help!

ok, scratch that, i got all the cylinders working by adjusting the fuel/air mixture knob. now i'd like to know how to adjust the carbs, theres a huge difference in how much air they take in.