MrMoonshineMan

alrighty, i checked the fuel lines, no prob there. i checkd the carb as well as i know how. the jet needle is fine, the hole where it goes puts out gas when the reservoir is full, the float works fine, there is plenty of oil, what else should i check?

No smoke. I'm kinda fuzzy on this: how could 1/2 of the timing be off? the last three work fine. oh yeah, maybe this would help: when i took out the 123 spark plugs, they were dry and did not smell of gas. the other three did indeed smell of combustion.

If i had the moeny to donate, i would, but i'm a struggling college student.:sleep: i'd just like to say that i think a key-chain of the club logo would be nice.

Alrighty, so i got it rebuilt for about $300, good deal i thought, thats with all the seals and gaskets and stuff. so i've put it on, and it turns out that the engine is now running on the last three cylinders, no joke. i checked the compression of them all, 145 across. i checked that they were sparking, yep, shocked the hell out of me. i took a look at the carbuerators, when i give it some gas, sure enough, it opens and sucks air, the fuel pump is obviously working as the 6-5-4 are working beautifully. i put all brand new hoses, so i doubt that there is a clog somewhere. help me out guys, i'm dead tired and at a loss as to what to do.

Geewhiz, thats a alot to do. the battery tray is pretty corroded, maybe i should just fashion a new one and take the old one out, in any case, thanks a lot for your advice!

ok, so i'd like to know what you guys recommend for rust removal, i'm cleaning out the battery well, and while i can get a lot of the rust out with sand paper/scotch brite, but under where the battery sits is really bad, and i have no way of getting to it. i've heard of "Naval Jelly", how does that work? Thanks a lot, after its all clean, i plan to just spray it with some rustoleum, any thing i should do in addition to this?

I've used it to fix a busted grey water tank on my motorhome, and then a few months ago i used it to fix the bumper cover on my mom's Geo. Useful stuff. Bondo has something almost identical that dries clear instead of grey.

ok, so i bought my first 240Z a few weeks ago, and it was running really sluggishly, so was looking around, and i saw that the hose to the advance was missing, so i fixed that and it gave it more power, but still not close to what it should have, so i checked the spark plugs, and number 4 was wet. I took the compression, and all the others were around 145-130, #4 was 0. so i took the valve cover off, and there was a rocker missing! so i got a new one, and as i was putting it on, i noticed that the valve spring was sitting much lower than any of the others, just wouldn't come up. so i just took the head off, which was fun for my first time taking one off, and thank god for the shop manual or the chain would have slipped down for sure. so i take it off and it seems that the admission valve seat has come loose and its stuck between the valve and the head. so i was calling around to find someone to rebuild it, and i got some qoutes saying anywhere from $125+parts to $250, new head and valves. to $1300 for a valve job. My question is how much should i be willing to spend, and for what? sorry for the long account, i'm just excited about my first project.