Kimi

I'm sorry that I haven't been clear enough with my question. I should have written more about the engine in my first post, my bad <O:pSo the P90 on the F54 had already been shaved .074" when I bought the engine. I was going to install the engine as it is, with the turbo and everything. This setup has been used before I bought it so it should work.<O:p</O:p Then I started to look at NA setups and thought that maybe this engine could be nice as a NA too.<O:p</O:p Now after the help and advice here I think that maybe the best solution for me is to keep this engine a turbo.<O:p</O:p Thanks for the link Been playing with the calculator, looks like the CR should be a somewhere near 8 with this setup (if it has a stock HG).<O:p</O:p I'll probably sell this L28ET and buy a L28 NA and start to work on it, if I don't decide to use this turboengine.<O:p</O:p

I ment with my previous post that maybe I should let the L28ET be as it is with the turbo pistons, and get a stock NA L28 instead for the project. The P90 was already shaved when I bought the engine, and has been used with the F54 block, turbo pistons and a turbo before I bought it. It has not been used with a stock L28ET ECU. Don't get me wrong, I really appreciate all the help I get here Now I just need to decide what to do with the engine.

Yes, I will check it if I decide to change the pistons. Now when I have more information I've started to to think that maybe I just should keep this L28 as a turboengine, becouse it should be a nice setup as it is. As Zed Head wrote I could sell it and buy a stock NA L28 and build it instead. I got to make a decision. I'll let you know if I start to work on this engine

A lot of good information here, thanks Ok, I got to check the mentioned things and then choose the headgasket after that. As far as I know the block should be stock, but that will be seen when the pistons are installed.

Thanks Diseazd Ok, sounds good. The compression should be pretty ok with this head then I know that the engine won't have the same hp as with the turbo setup, but it should be enough for me and my series 1 240Z Haven't thought about the cam yet, just been thinking about the pistons. Probably going to change the pistons first and try to find all the parts I need, and then choose a cam. Thanks for the tip too, I have to look at the Isky stage III specs. I think I will find Crane cams locally, but I have to check that too.

I begin with saying that I'm sorry that I make a question that has been several times asked before. Been reading the topics, but still felt that I wanted to ask you guys for help with my engineproject. I bought a L28ET (F54 block and a P90 head) for my 240Z. The block has new rings and bearings, stock turbo pistons. The head has been shaved .074", with the proper single cam tower shim, multi angle valve job, intake runners ported and polished, slight deburring of combustion chambers, exhaust side just had behind the valve seat cleaned. So this should be a nice turbo-engine, and when I bought the engine I thought that I would use it as it is+EFI, but lately I've been playing with the idea of making it a NA with the flat-top pistons. In that case I probably would go with: - F54 block + stock F54 flat-top pistons - the shaved P90 head - MSA header + 2,5" exhaust - early SU carbs - aluminium flywheel But now to the question, would the stock flat-top pistons clear the shaved head and what kind of compression am I looking at. Would it be near 9.5:1? Don't know how well the P90 cam would perform either. I don't know if it would be worth the effort to change the pistons and go NA, but the sound of a nice NA L6 is so...

The HLH arrived on Friday and I installed it today. Now the headlights works great without heat in the fusebox Now my car has the three Zs-ondabrain upgrades installed and they have fixed exactly the electrical problems the car had :classic: Thank you for the HLH, PLH and the alternator adapter!!!

Thank you guys for helping me. I'll clean all the connectors carefully and check if I can make the situation a little better before the HLH arrives. I'm not familiar with DeoxIT, but I'll check if I can find it here.

Ordered the HLH today, now I hope it arrives soon While waiting I'll try to find the cause to why the right side headlight fuse gets hot. It doesn't blow, but definitly ain't healthy either. I tested first with disconnecting the low-beam wire near the connection in front of the radiator. The right low-beam did'nt work of course and the fuse stayed cool. I then switched the hi-beam on and the fuse started to get hot. Then I tested disconnecting the whole connection, and the right side headlight didn't of course work and the fuse stayed cool. Didn't have time to test it more today, and I don't know if I understand the problem more than earlier. But becouse the left side work ok, I guess that the problem could be somewhere in the right front corner, or maybe it could be the red wire that goes from the right headlight. Does it go directly to the fusebox? I'll continue tomorrow, any suggestion what could be the cause and what I should try to look at?

Thanks Dave, I installed the PLH and now the fuse stays cool. The parkinglights seem to be brighter too Installing the harness was really easy, it was totally plug and play. Really nice!!! Thank you for this awesome product!!! Only problem I had was getting the new harness to fit inside the plastic cover. When I finally got it in place, I thought that I'll test the parking lights once more now when the cover was in place. I almoust got a heart attack when the lights didn't work. Checked the fuses and everything was ok. Then I used some not that nice words, cursing that plastic cover. Started to think that maybe I had broken something while I installed it. I tested the lights again and I heard the relay click, and now the lights works. Don't know what could be the cause, but now it works When I tested if the fuse stays cool, I thought that I'll test the driving lights fuses too. The left sides fuse was cool, but the right was really hot. Starts to sound that there is some kind of a problem in the right headlight (earlier the parking light fuse blew when the right side parking light was connected with the right side headlight). Got to open the headlight and check it. There is also a red wire connected with a black wire coming from the switch that goes to the other side of the steering axle, probably to the blinker switch. That wire gets warm too when I turn on the headlights. Maybe it's time to order the headlight harness too But first I got to check the headlights wires.

I disconnected all the parking lights, side markers and the licenseplate bulbs. I also disconneted the connections under the dash (they looked dry and ok). I found out that if I left the front blinker and parking light on the right side disconnected (not just the bulb but also the connection in front of the radiator) the fuse wouldn't blow. I used now a 10A fuse (even if there should be a 20A fuse I think) and it still worked. I found a wire that went from the blinker/parking light to the headlight. But it was connected only with one wire, so I think that wire could have been the problem, becouse when I disconnected it the 10A fuse was ok (also 20A of course). Maybe it had got wet or something and started to ground? I don't need the parkinglight in the headlights, so it's ok. Now all the lights work again, but the fuse (tested with 10A and 20A fuses) gets really hot, the fusebox actually melts around the fuse on the inner side. I think it has done that earlier too, but probably not as much as now. Can this problem be fixed with the parking light upgrade harness, or should I continue to search if there is a wire grounding or something? I disconnected the right side parking light but the fuse got hot even if it was disconnected. I can try to disconnect one bulb at the time, and test if the fuse stays cooler. Is it common that the parkinglight fuse gets hot even if it doesn't blow?

Thanks Dave. I'll try that. I really hope I can fix this, it's the only thing that has to be done before I'm able to get the car on the road

Hi Dave, It was a 20A fuse, and I tried to replace it three times. The draining is fixed, and all the lights was working fine when i put the car in garage. I thought that I let the car dry in the garage, but maybe there is water now in some connections. I already have that awesome parking light upgrade harness Just haven't installed it yet. I think I try to fix this problem first before I install it.

I have this problem with my series 1 240Z. The headlights, brakelights and blinkers work. But not the parking lights (side markers, rear and front, licenseplate) or the gauge lights. The fuse blows almoust at once when I put on the parking lights. The car is stock, and everything has worked nice until now. In the beginning of this week the car was out from the garage and it was raining really hard. I noticed that water was coming in under the dash on the right side of the car. Found out that the water came in becouse the hose that should stear the water out on the side of the car was not installed :stupid: There was water on the wires under the dash above the kickplate. I have not used the car after that. Should I start going through those wires or do you think the problem is somewhere else? The fusebox looks ok.

Thanks geezer for this information :classic: It's awesome how much Z-information is found here, thanks guys My 240Z is manufactured in 9/70, and the serialnumber starts with HLS30-09 so I should be ok with the ball joint for the later cars. Found new 14mm ball joints locally. Going to have them installed in next week, and after that I should finally be able to have the car on the road after I bought it two years ago