vtdds71

Thanks for the feedback. Maybe I'll take a closer look at the original stock header that was removed by the first (and only other) owner back when the car was relatively new. It didn't look too great at first, but maybe with some refinishing, it could be used. With this header I assume a stock size or about 2.25" system would be a better idea than the larger MSA pipes? What's the deal with these aftermarket headers anyway? If they fit poorly, aren't made a well as OEM, and don't improve performance, what's the point? I can't see where appearance is much of an issue, as they are pretty well buried below the carbs and intake manifold as is.

My 72 240Z needs a new exhaust system, including a replacement for its old Hooker header, and I am very confused as to what is best. My car is in stock condition, and will remain so for the time being. I would like decent quality, trouble-free installation, a deeper "sporty" tone (not a raspy "ricer" noise), and performance at least on a par with the original stock system. Forum threads have run the gamut. Choices mentioned include: (1) various MSA setups, (2) Monza/Pacesetter, (3) local muffler shop "custom" do-it-yourself. I have heard of no other options. MSA systems concern me because the pipe diameter is much larger than stock (2.5"), and some say this reduces back-pressure too much for a stock application. There is also no resonator installed "mid-stream", so extra booming noises have been reported. Finally, many have complained about difficulty of installation of the MSA pipes. MSA admits problems in the past, but they say they are better now. An "armor-coated" 3-into-2 header I received from MSA looked pretty, but has a definite warp in the mounting flange from one end to the other. MSA says "don't worry, it will flatten out when you torque down the nuts!". Is this true? The Monza/Pacesetter products have been largely criticized in the forums I've read. I guess they tend to rust out pretty quickly. But, do they fit well? How do they sound? Are they of similar quality to the MSA systems? Their pipes are smaller diameter, and may be a better match for my car. Comments? Also, the headers seem to be unavailable right now, but are supposed to go back into limited production in 3-4 weeks. For what it is worth, they are "made in the U.S.A.". I have to replace the header, no matter what. The Hooker is pretty rusty, and I really don't want to bolt the old original header on the car since it has been off for over 30 years. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. D. Nelson

I'm trying to find the best complete exhaust system for my '72 Z (pretty much stock 4-speed, and no big plans for modifications to engine, etc.). I did receive a coated 3 into 2 header and super turbo exhaust from MSA, but am concerned because 1) the mounting flange of the header has a slight warp to it from front to back (MSA says that's normal, and will straighten out when bolting it on (?!), and 2) the rest of the exhaust is 2.5" w/ no middle muffler or resonator, just ending in a Dynomax muffler. I've read many threads complaining about 1) poor fit of these systems (MSA says they've improved them lately), and 2) heavy droning at certain speeds due to straight-through large diameter pipe. I also considered the Monza system from Black Dragon, but they cannot promise they will ever again supply the headers, so that's out. Plus, I have seen many people complaining about poor fit and quality of Monza/Pacesetter systems. Any suggestions?

I'm looking for a replacement for the intake manifold thermostat that screws into the back of the rear carb manifold (NOT the main engine thermostat). It must be functioning, of course. If it works properly, it will be open to the flow of coolant until the temp reaches around 150 degrees F., then it's supposed to close and shut off the coolant flow into the intake manifolds. I may also need a replacement heater box assembly that isn't all warped and rusted like the one on my '72 Z. This is the metal box into which the heater core goes, and it has all the flaps that should open and close freely. If you have either of these parts, please let me know. e-mail at vtdds71@adelphia.net. Thanks

I bought my '72 Z (26K miles) in a "round-a-bout" way through e-bay in 9/04, and I will only share with my wife what I wound up paying for it! Probably some of you watched the auction with interest, as the car looked quite beautiful and impeccably maintained by its original owner. Yes, I spoke with this 83-year-old gentleman on the phone well after I bought the car -- what a neat guy, and a real enthusiast. Turned out the actual buyer got cold feet after sending in his check (actually, it would be more honest to say he is an incurable e-bay junkie who just loves playing the bidding game), and he offered to sell the car to me privately. So, we had a 3-way deal going for a month and a half until the car was finally delivered to me (the original buyer never even saw the car!). The car turned out to be just as physically beautiful as it appeared in the many crisp digital pictures, but its mechanical condition was greatly overstated by the e-bay seller (Classic-motorsports in Clinton, NY). I suppose I was naive to think that rubber parts, fuel system, carbs, hydraulics, not to mention engine tune had actually been kept up-to-date as promised in the e-bay ad, but they were not. So, I am at last undertaking a complete revitalization of these components. Yes, I paid too much for the car because the seller lied about its true condition. No, I would never buy another car through an e-bay transaction (unless its condition were professionally evaluated first). No, I wouldn't trust Don Stanton of Classic-motorsports any further than I could throw him. Yes, I will be a happy owner of a beautiful Z once I have completed my refurbishment of its mechanicals, mainly because the body of this car is, truthfully, rock solid and rust free. I have always felt it makes much more sense to rebuild faulty mechanicals in a car with a solid body, than to buy a rust-bucket onto which some hapless fool has already hung a ton of new parts. As to the current value of Z-cars, I have wondered, too, why the "high book" value in the NADA guide has dropped from about $18,200 in mid-'04 when I was considering this purchase, to about $12,600 now. Not good news. Could be there is just too much modern stuff available now that is fun to drive, trouble-free, easily fixed (when necessary), and easily replaceable when stolen or trashed. We live in a "disposable" society. Z-cars were made to be driven, not stored in museums. There are now lots of fun rides out there that have far fewer headaches than an old Z, and they cost around $20-30K. I love the early Z's because it was the car I wanted more than anything when I graduated from dental school in '71 (yeah, that makes me 60!), but there was a 10-month waiting list at the time, and the Navy Dental Corps wouldn't wait. I went with a brand-new funny little sedan called a BMW 2002 instead! Damn, wish I had kept that one! Keep the good ideas coming! Denny Nelson (Jericho, VT)

Thanks for the input. Still no luck finding the t-stat for the intake manifold, but I've sent out some more inquiries to the websites suggested. I live in the Burlington, Vermont area, so there's not a lot of classic Z activity up here. Most of them rusted away years ago, I guess.

Hi to all other members. Hope this website proves helpful over time. I bought a very nice (but neglected) '72 240Z about a year and a half ago, and I've finally started a systematic refurbishing of the whole car. I'm finding some parts are not obtainable, e.g. can anyone tell me where I can find a replacement for the intake manifold thermostat unit that connects to the rear carb intake manifold? Some say this unit can be eliminated, or by-passed, but I figure it is there for a good reason. Ditto the heater box assembly that holds the heater core and has the flaps that redirect air to the various ducts. Mine is quite rusted and distorted, but I may be able to salvage it with a lot of patience and hard work. Can't find a source for a replacements. Any suggestions or help would be appreciated. Thanks.