Bill.Oakes

True, true - as long as you apply the 20/20 rule (20ft at 20mph) it looks great! Now to just get it all back together! -Bill

Hi all, I have the tranny out of my 240z (an '83zx 5sp) and want to change out all of the oil. I've seen a couple different capacity levels listed for filling. Is 3 1/8 pints an accurate capacity level for refilling? thanks Bill Oakes Libertyville, IL

Hi gang, I'm cleaning up the '73 (runs better than it looks) hoping to make it look as good as it runs. But after taking the engine out and cleaning up around the passenger side rail and inner fender I found a chunk of bondo holding a large piece above the rail. I'm attaching some pix. So, I know anything CAN be fixed, as it's hard to tell by just pix, but how critical is this area of rust? Would be better to use by rust-free '72 that has no interior or engine, and use the goodies from the '73? Maybe save the '73 for a pure race car with new frame rails???? I'm going to have a welding friend of mine look at it for some advice, but I trust the opinion of this crowd more. thanks in advance. -Bill pix available at: http://tinyurl.com/5ct4j

I haven't seen anything on the email list in a long time, and don't see it mentioned on the site anywhere now either. Is it gone or am I missing something? thanks -Bill

not sure, how would I check? I still have it, but replaced it with a rebuilt one I had as a spare, luckily. thanks

Having some debate with a neighbor as to which way the check valve should go - should it let vacuum go into the booster or out. Or maybe better to put it, which way should the air flow, toward the engine or away from the engine? By the way, I did replace the booster with a newly rebuilt one. The pedal is much smoother (the old one hung up about half way back up) and no hissing now. Still no brake pressure unless I pump it several times, but I fear it's the air bubble demons at work, isn't it?

Thought I'd better change threads for this one: I've been bleeding them like crazy with no results, but now have read more on the site about the booster and fear that might be it. There is a lot of hissing when I pump the brakes, lose all pressure when I start the car and the pedal sticks pretty bad on the way back up from stepping on it. I disconnected the pedal to make sure it wasn't the pedal itself, definitely coming from the rod that attaches to the pedal (and the booster). Damn, I have a race in 6 days, is there a solid test to prove that it's the booster, not air? thanks -Bill

I'm afraid I've inherited Marty's brake bleeding nightmare. I'm also using speed bleeders, have Toyota calipers up front and have just completed a full suspension upgrade. The good news is that the car is on the ground (for the first time in 6 months) and started like a champ. The coilover suspension is also very cool, very easy to adjust. The bad news, I have already gone through close to 2 qts of DOT4 fluid (which was in there before) and still next to no pedal pressure. When I start it the pressure goes away completely. I really doubt it's the master, it worked perfectly last year with the same set up, and I believe was replace by the PO about 5 years ago. Any miracle cures (sorry, have to ask). More importantly, how many quarts should I expect to use? thanks -Bill

It's not a big deal, but the guy I saw on Speed TV won $50,000 in Barrett-Jackson bucks. Rightous Bucks! He was the last guy in his circle of friends to not have a Muscle car to cruise Woodward Ave in. Guess he's got one NOW! I wonder what he bought? I too tried, but didn't win. They did a small feature on him on the Speed Channel, very cool. He end up buying a beautiful 70's Chevelle convertible. Sure would love to be there drooling over cars (instead of shivering here in Chicago)