280z1975

I have now listed my car on ebay in Germany if anyone is interested ... http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemnext&item=200641176099.html It's a steal for anyone who is interested in a good clean Z that's had a majority of the work done.

Hello all, I hate that it's come to this, but I'm now going to be selling my 1975 280Z. It's hard to let her go but I'm just not in a position to let keep her going the way I want and give the project the time I want to. I hope once my business slows down and my time is more available I can pick up another project (or just go for a completed one and do the 'enjoying' part. Anyways. The car is located in Oudenaarde, Belgium. It's a 1975 280z with 57,000 miles and was originally from Texas. I brought it over with me when I moved here in 2007. More details can be found here: http://www.gregggermer.com/280z_4sale.htm There are tons of high-res photos in the flicker album and a Youtube walk around. Any questions just e-mail me at gregg dot germer at yahoo dot com. All the best, Gregg

What ever happened to the Mull Project? http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17399&highlight=mull I haven't been on the forums much in the last two years with starting my own business and today i was cleaning up the old hard drive and came across Mull's videos ... can't seem to find any information out there on Mull.tk and such ... What's the scoop?

Ok, so I have been a bad Z owners as of late. Back in the summer I was driving my car and it suddenly lost power. It just started to choke and no matter how much I hit the accelerator there was no power. It will turn over and start, but after just past idle the car just has NO go what so ever. I put the problem to the side as I had a crazy few months with work, switching jobs and now saving up for a new house and business. Today I fired up the car and shot a video of the problem so I can show everyone here and get an idea of what I might be dealing with. My best guess is a vacuum leak, possibly with the header or value cover. I would LOVE to get this sorted in the next two weeks before we move to make things a bit easier on me. So any ideas on where to start and what I could do? Here is the video link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=79a6WT5J6Gc -Gregg-

Hello all ... well I wanted to update you guys on this post and get some feedback on directions. Work for me has been SO crazy that I haven't found the time to get to working on the car till this week. So I hooked up a pressure gauge to the vacuum lines to test the pressure in the system. When the car is idling it is ok, but once you hit the gas it goes down to nothing. This has lead me tells me there is a vacuum leak in the system but I don't know how to start to find it. Any suggestions? Also, would a bad valve cover seal or exhaust manifold seal lead to this problem? Both of mine could stand to be changed I am sure, with the exhaust manifold the worse of the two. I haven't driven my car in 4 months and I'm itching to get this problem fixed, so any help would be great!

My 1975 EFI 280z is having trouble running past 3000 RPM's it will rev up then almost no power. You can floor it and nothing is going on. It all started after I filled up at a gas station and then BAM, it's power died about 2 miles down the road. I don't think it's bad gas as it was a good gas station. The only thing I can think is that I gave it diesel instead of gas, but that was on my mind when I filled up and I made sure to grab the gas pump ... any idea's on the problem. Also, it will start fine when cold, but when the engine warms up it has trouble kicking over. If it helps I can make a small video of the problem to post along with this. Any ideas out there on where to start ....

I would suggest putting a photo of each of the EFI components and then also a larger shot of the engine bay with them labeled. Since I suggested the idea I will also implement the idea to ... just won't happen till Monday or Tuesday as I have work all weekend long. On a better note, my car is now registered, licensed and insured to terrorize the Belgian roads ... that only took 6 months to complete!

some time to her after starting my new job ....

I found an old Smurf Toy and about 2 dollars of change (mostly from the 70's and 80's) ... since the car was "free" that means I was paid 2 dollars for the car ... then again the last time I totaled up all my receipts for the car says otherwise :tapemouth

I am thinking about getting a steam cleaner to help with the underside cleaning of my car. I've heard some people say it works well, others not ... any opinions out there on this type of cleaning? I am looking at a steam cleaner that is originally a Wall Paper Remover but has cleaning attachments. I also like the idea of doing it house cleaning with it and not having to use chemicals. http://www.wagner-group.de/portal/color_dts_5800_en_wag,98471,365.html Does the steam cleaner need to be sending out pressured water to work for cleaning? Thanks for the opinions.

I would suggest that you prep the outside of the body for paint and have an epoxy coat of primer to seal the car. It's not going to make the car look good (but a flat black won't be that terrible) but it will protect it from rust and corrosion. When you get back you can lay down the body filler and work on the car in sections without the worry of flash rusting or other issues. Talk to a local body shop, a good one will take the time to help you ... if the guy seems to brush you off, tell you you need a full paint job or doesn't seem to want your business ... walk away. As far as the engine bay, you need to get in there and get off as much rust as possible ... search for the POR-15 products Metal Ready and prep the surface as described then treat it with some sort of sealant to keep it from rusting (or spreading) till you can get back and deal with the rust. Just remember to get a control of the rust. Now be safe where ever in the world you are deployed.

My mechanic quoted me 3 hours work to do this ... there is a bit to be removed, but it's not as bad as one would think. So based on 3 hours work he is charging you around 100 an hour (if the part is supplied). What's his normal rate on the work then divide by his quoted cost, should give you an idea of his estimated time and what he thinks it will cost.

You might be the first candidate for the 240z to 280z bumper degrade (the opposite of the upgrade)!! I'm sorry for this to happen. I hope you find a good hood soon. I think the problem is the Z car has such a low profile and people are so use to "large and tall" cars and trucks now they forget there are actual sports cars out there. The long engine bay is also the problem for most people, they don't expect it that long.

You should try to contact the company and ask if they would be willing to sell you the part you need at cost (since you already cad-plated the wrong part). Any company that is worth their weight in customer service will give you this option. They aren't out money and you save on the cost of the part. Everyone is happy.

For me it's been all of the parts involved with my cycling the past 10 years. I will say though the last 3 as a professional I have been able to go into the positive, but with complete bikes in the 2500 to 4000 USD range it's not cheap. Growing up I could never bring myself to spend more than 50 dollars on a pair of regular shoes. The extra cost for the "bling" didn't do it for me. But when it came to my cycling shoes I wouldn't blink at dropping 150 dollars or more. Oh the way the mind works ... For the moment I've stopped cycling and gone back to regular work, so the only thing taking up money at the moment is our little Cocker Spaniel Belle, she eats like a dog twice her size!