280z1975

I have now listed my car on ebay in Germany if anyone is interested ... http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemnext&item=200641176099.html It's a steal for anyone who is interested in a good clean Z that's had a majority of the work done.

Hello all, I hate that it's come to this, but I'm now going to be selling my 1975 280Z. It's hard to let her go but I'm just not in a position to let keep her going the way I want and give the project the time I want to. I hope once my business slows down and my time is more available I can pick up another project (or just go for a completed one and do the 'enjoying' part. Anyways. The car is located in Oudenaarde, Belgium. It's a 1975 280z with 57,000 miles and was originally from Texas. I brought it over with me when I moved here in 2007. More details can be found here: http://www.gregggermer.com/280z_4sale.htm There are tons of high-res photos in the flicker album and a Youtube walk around. Any questions just e-mail me at gregg dot germer at yahoo dot com. All the best, Gregg

What ever happened to the Mull Project? http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17399&highlight=mull I haven't been on the forums much in the last two years with starting my own business and today i was cleaning up the old hard drive and came across Mull's videos ... can't seem to find any information out there on Mull.tk and such ... What's the scoop?

Ok, so I have been a bad Z owners as of late. Back in the summer I was driving my car and it suddenly lost power. It just started to choke and no matter how much I hit the accelerator there was no power. It will turn over and start, but after just past idle the car just has NO go what so ever. I put the problem to the side as I had a crazy few months with work, switching jobs and now saving up for a new house and business. Today I fired up the car and shot a video of the problem so I can show everyone here and get an idea of what I might be dealing with. My best guess is a vacuum leak, possibly with the header or value cover. I would LOVE to get this sorted in the next two weeks before we move to make things a bit easier on me. So any ideas on where to start and what I could do? Here is the video link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=79a6WT5J6Gc -Gregg-

Hello all ... well I wanted to update you guys on this post and get some feedback on directions. Work for me has been SO crazy that I haven't found the time to get to working on the car till this week. So I hooked up a pressure gauge to the vacuum lines to test the pressure in the system. When the car is idling it is ok, but once you hit the gas it goes down to nothing. This has lead me tells me there is a vacuum leak in the system but I don't know how to start to find it. Any suggestions? Also, would a bad valve cover seal or exhaust manifold seal lead to this problem? Both of mine could stand to be changed I am sure, with the exhaust manifold the worse of the two. I haven't driven my car in 4 months and I'm itching to get this problem fixed, so any help would be great!

My 1975 EFI 280z is having trouble running past 3000 RPM's it will rev up then almost no power. You can floor it and nothing is going on. It all started after I filled up at a gas station and then BAM, it's power died about 2 miles down the road. I don't think it's bad gas as it was a good gas station. The only thing I can think is that I gave it diesel instead of gas, but that was on my mind when I filled up and I made sure to grab the gas pump ... any idea's on the problem. Also, it will start fine when cold, but when the engine warms up it has trouble kicking over. If it helps I can make a small video of the problem to post along with this. Any ideas out there on where to start ....

I would suggest putting a photo of each of the EFI components and then also a larger shot of the engine bay with them labeled. Since I suggested the idea I will also implement the idea to ... just won't happen till Monday or Tuesday as I have work all weekend long. On a better note, my car is now registered, licensed and insured to terrorize the Belgian roads ... that only took 6 months to complete!

some time to her after starting my new job ....

I found an old Smurf Toy and about 2 dollars of change (mostly from the 70's and 80's) ... since the car was "free" that means I was paid 2 dollars for the car ... then again the last time I totaled up all my receipts for the car says otherwise :tapemouth

I am thinking about getting a steam cleaner to help with the underside cleaning of my car. I've heard some people say it works well, others not ... any opinions out there on this type of cleaning? I am looking at a steam cleaner that is originally a Wall Paper Remover but has cleaning attachments. I also like the idea of doing it house cleaning with it and not having to use chemicals. http://www.wagner-group.de/portal/color_dts_5800_en_wag,98471,365.html Does the steam cleaner need to be sending out pressured water to work for cleaning? Thanks for the opinions.

I would suggest that you prep the outside of the body for paint and have an epoxy coat of primer to seal the car. It's not going to make the car look good (but a flat black won't be that terrible) but it will protect it from rust and corrosion. When you get back you can lay down the body filler and work on the car in sections without the worry of flash rusting or other issues. Talk to a local body shop, a good one will take the time to help you ... if the guy seems to brush you off, tell you you need a full paint job or doesn't seem to want your business ... walk away. As far as the engine bay, you need to get in there and get off as much rust as possible ... search for the POR-15 products Metal Ready and prep the surface as described then treat it with some sort of sealant to keep it from rusting (or spreading) till you can get back and deal with the rust. Just remember to get a control of the rust. Now be safe where ever in the world you are deployed.

My mechanic quoted me 3 hours work to do this ... there is a bit to be removed, but it's not as bad as one would think. So based on 3 hours work he is charging you around 100 an hour (if the part is supplied). What's his normal rate on the work then divide by his quoted cost, should give you an idea of his estimated time and what he thinks it will cost.

You might be the first candidate for the 240z to 280z bumper degrade (the opposite of the upgrade)!! I'm sorry for this to happen. I hope you find a good hood soon. I think the problem is the Z car has such a low profile and people are so use to "large and tall" cars and trucks now they forget there are actual sports cars out there. The long engine bay is also the problem for most people, they don't expect it that long.

You should try to contact the company and ask if they would be willing to sell you the part you need at cost (since you already cad-plated the wrong part). Any company that is worth their weight in customer service will give you this option. They aren't out money and you save on the cost of the part. Everyone is happy.

For me it's been all of the parts involved with my cycling the past 10 years. I will say though the last 3 as a professional I have been able to go into the positive, but with complete bikes in the 2500 to 4000 USD range it's not cheap. Growing up I could never bring myself to spend more than 50 dollars on a pair of regular shoes. The extra cost for the "bling" didn't do it for me. But when it came to my cycling shoes I wouldn't blink at dropping 150 dollars or more. Oh the way the mind works ... For the moment I've stopped cycling and gone back to regular work, so the only thing taking up money at the moment is our little Cocker Spaniel Belle, she eats like a dog twice her size!

<p align="center"> </p> <p align="center"><img src="http://www.gregggermer.com/photos/280z_harness/IMG_6146.JPG" width="640" height="480"></p> <p align="center">#41 (Windshiled Washer Motor), 12.5mm wide, 7mm tall and 29mm long</p> <p align="center"> </p> <p align="center"><font size="5">All these are inside the firewall (cabin)<img src="http://www.gregggermer.com/photos/280z_harness/IMG_6153.JPG" width="640" height="480"></font></p> <p align="center"><img src="http://www.gregggermer.com/photos/280z_harness/IMG_6149.JPG" width="640" height="480"></p> <p align="center">*#2 Blade connector (Black, White, Green), Female, 13 connections, 44mm wide, 25mm tall and 37mm long</p> <p align="center"> </p> <p align="center"><img src="http://www.gregggermer.com/photos/280z_harness/IMG_6151.JPG" width="640" height="480"></p> <p align="center">*#3 6 Male Blade, large, connector</p> <p align="center"> </p> <p align="center"><img src="http://www.gregggermer.com/photos/280z_harness/IMG_6152.JPG" width="640" height="480"></p> <p align="center">*#4 Female 10 barrel connector (3mm size)</p> <p align="center"> </p> <p align="center"><img src="http://www.gregggermer.com/photos/280z_harness/IMG_6154.JPG" width="640" height="480"></p> <p align="center">*#6, Black Female Blade connector, 5 connectors with rubber hood</p> <p align="center"> </p> <p align="center"><img src="http://www.gregggermer.com/photos/280z_harness/IMG_6155.JPG" width="640" height="480"></p> <p align="center">*#7 (Tach Resistor)</p> <p align="center"> </p> So there is my progress at the moment. If anyone would like to compare the connectors to the ones on a 240z, 260z or other 280z's I would be glad to look for them also (I want to compile a list of the various plugs used for each harness, this way we all know what to buy to make our own). I have compiled all this information on my webpage dedicated to this project: http://www.gregggermer.com/280z_harness.htm Thanks for the help and I hope to work out much of the details in the coming weeks. BTW, the Nissan Part Number for this guinne pig harness is "24012 - N7603(8)"

Ok, so I finally got around to working on figuring out the engine bay harness. I have labled all the connectors and am in the process of sourcing them, but I am going to post my finding first instead of searching for hours only to find out someone else on the board has found the information already. After a couple of days I will begin the search for any miscellaneous connectors. <p>In total there are 9 Female, 2 Male Bullet connectors, 7 blade connectors, 10 eyelet connectors (plus 1 large one) and 24 plastic connectors. </p> <p> </p> <p><font size="5"><strong>Varios Plugs:</strong></font></p> <p align="center"><img src="http://www.gregggermer.com/photos/280z_harness/IMG_6113.JPG" width="640" height="480"></p> <p align="center">#9 (Check Connector)- 18mm in diameter, 30mm long, marking AX5 on the plug and AX6 on the cap. 7 wire plug but only 3 wires going to it.</p> <p align="center"> </p> <p align="center"><img src="http://www.gregggermer.com/photos/280z_harness/IMG_6115.JPG" width="640" height="480"></p> <p align="center">#11 (Headlamp-Left): Marking XA6, 34mm long and 17mm diameter</p> <p align="center"> </p> <p align="center"><img src="http://www.gregggermer.com/photos/280z_harness/IMG_6118.JPG" width="640" height="480"></p> <p align="center">#14 (T.S. & Park Lamp) - 34 mm long, 17mm (19) diameter</p> <p align="center"> </p> <p align="center"><img src="http://www.gregggermer.com/photos/280z_harness/IMG_6121.JPG" width="640" height="480"></p> <p align="center">#17 (Side Marker Lamp): 13mm wide, 7mm tall and 29mm long. Marking X86</p> <p align="center"> </p> <p align="center"><img src="http://www.gregggermer.com/photos/280z_harness/IMG_6124.JPG" width="640" height="480"></p> <p align="center">#19 (Unknown at the moment), T-connector with rubber boot. 25mm long, 15mm tall, 10 and 7mm wide</p> <p align="center"> </p> <p align="center"><img src="http://www.gregggermer.com/photos/280z_harness/IMG_6131.JPG" width="640" height="480"></p> <p align="center">#25 (Pressure Switch (A/C only)): 35mm long, 20mm wide and 16mm tall. Marking B8</p> <p align="center"> </p> <p align="center"><img src="http://www.gregggermer.com/photos/280z_harness/IMG_6132.JPG" width="640" height="480"></p> <p align="center">#26 (Magnet Valve Vaccume Source): 35mm long, 22mm diameter</p> <p align="center"> </p> <p align="center"><img src="http://www.gregggermer.com/photos/280z_harness/IMG_6135.JPG" width="640" height="480"></p> <p align="center">#29: 6 pin connector (Black) Female blade connector, 28mm wide, 12mm tall and 30mm long</p> <p align="center"> </p> <p align="center"><img src="http://www.gregggermer.com/photos/280z_harness/IMG_6136.JPG" width="640" height="480"></p> <p align="center">#30, same as above, but white</p> <p align="center"> </p> <p align="center"><img src="http://www.gregggermer.com/photos/280z_harness/IMG_6145.JPG" width="640" height="480"></p> <p align="center">#39 (Wiper Motor), 18mm diameter, 29mm length</p>

Darbij, What type of license plate is that on the front? It looks like a European one?

Some progress, but not as much as I would have liked. I ended up putting the project on hold till the September to focus on my cycling career as the market to ride bicycles as a job is tough (so tough I haven't been able to find a contract for next year). I then was busy setting up a business with my wife to bring people over here to experience the Spring Classic bicycle races. But finally my life has slowed down and I am about to get into the wiring harness. I have located a cheap(ish) source of wiring from England and have been looking for sources on the internet for different size plugs and such. I think today I will get to business and work on the wiring harness project some (finally finished a built in desk my wife has been wanting, her list of ideas and projects never ends :lick:). Once I have more of an update I will let you guys know.

Try Starbucks Coffee, it's great part time work. You can get benefits with only working 20 hours in the week and the hours are quite flexible. Best of all they are everywhere, so one has to be close to you . That was where I worked when I needed a flexible job between other things when I lived in the USA.

A sovereign nation, yes ... English as an official language, yes (but more for logistical reasons than anything else) But one "culture" American ... please tell me what is American culture ... America was founded by immigrants from hundreds of different lands. The closest thing to American 'culture' that I can think of is more what I call the "American Idea" ... the idea that anyone with the will to succeed can through the use of America's freedoms and free market economy. America became so great because the people that arrived at the start were bold, adventurous and most of all ambitious people looking to make things better. America was founded by idealists and this is what made America great. Ambitious people with a country of great resources at their disposal and a free market economy to allow them to prosper.

Arne ... you are to fast ... plus I shouldn't show my wife the article so she "has" to read it before I can post my reply

Snoeps.com is a great resource for wadding through the numerous e-mails that are forwarded everyday. http://www.snopes.com/politics/obama/anthem.asp Now let's not get into a political debate ... it never turns out good. All I have to say is that for me voting is never fun ... I am always unimpressed by the politicians I see on both sides of the spectrum every time I go to vote. I feel like I a choice between dumb and dumber. Just be glad your not in Belgium, there are 11 political parties to chose from! And this week they are voting on if the country should be divided along it's phonetic lines (Flanders and Wallonia). (BTW, I am American, still vote when allowed, but only in Federal elections as I live outside the US and voting locally seems kinda stupid to me :classic:)

I have only seen one Z car since I moved to Belgium in February and it was racing at the 6 hours of Spa. In fact there was a HUGE classic car meet that day at the race track (the Belgian Classic Car Club is a sponsor of the race and if you brought your classic car to the race you got to do one lap 'parade' around the course). There must have been over 500 classic cars, but not one Z (or Datsun for that matter). Oh well ... once my Z is up and running (parts finally arrived on Friday) i will get out and do some of the local Z meets. The good thing about driving a Z when there aren't many about here is they sure do get people to turn their heads. I have seen at least 10 or more Ferrari's since I have been here (and I haven't even been to Knokke Heist area of Belgium, it's the tax haven area of the country :lick:).

I had a similar(ish) problem. The car got VERY weak spark, would start for a few seconds with starter fluid but then died ... The diagnosis. Bad wires between the coil and the ignition module. They were ok when you did a standard conductivity test with a test lamp, but the internal resistance of the wires was so degraded it wouldn't hold a proper signal (this is what the mechanic told me after using a scope to test it). Like others have said, it's a good chance the wires are degraded, butchered, split or other .... post any other information you find out ...