beezee

Nate, After cleaning up and treating your inner rocker ,using the panel adhesive you could bond a sheetmetal patch over the solid area of your rocker without welding a patch risking panel warpage A light grind and a skim of filler would finish the outside panel. This is what I was refering to.Mine needs a repair at the wheel lip and small area of the rocker I have the MSA repair dogleg and thinking of trying the panel adhesive to do this repair. BTW Ron, I have a 496 stroked Super Bee just finishing a 10 year rotissorie restor ation

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/panel-adhesives-81978.html Some testimonial on the Norton metal adhesive. Rick

http://www.nortonautomotive.com/media/documents/S0000000000000001044/SpeedGrip%20Auto%20Line%20of%20Adhesives%207663.pdf Nate, Theres metal adhesives available to bond metals vs welding.You could use this to put the metal back in your panel surface repair.

Yea, and simple math at that. I removed the spring for more accurate measurement,the spring coil length 2-1/8"+1-1/2"+1-3/8''=5'',this set up is on the car.Ihave a 260 spare engine and measures 4-3/4" hole to hole 4 bolt S.U,s and what I believe is the proper heat shield by the bent out tabs to hold the spring hook,but the springs are missing.The shield on the car is drilled so the springs are just fitted to tension the throttle.I haven,t touched the car since I,ve owned it just over a year,all work and mods by previous owners.The spring is close to .060'' wire dia. ,circumferance 7/16"

I have the same setup, 3 bolt su's on a '74 260. The spring measures 5'' overall 2 1/2'' on the coil 1 1/2'' on each side, probably aftermarket. here are the images..

Had that same problem years ago in a 340 Dodge I once had ,turned out to be a worn crank pilot bushing. It would shudder and vibrate right up the shifter.

Smoke from the carbs would be fuel vapor coming from the cylinders with open intake valves that loaded at high rpm when the ignition was turned off. Not sure on the high idle unless something is sticking in the throttle or misadjusted

That,s how mine is connected. Took the starter out today to clean the terminals as experiencing intermitent solenoid -starter clicking

GPS tracking

Have the padded cup holder armrest , just sits in the consule recess tray.Looks great,is practicle , adds comfort and hidden storage, yes I would buy it again Rick.

52 Two weeks today.

Looking at a wiring diagram in the Haynes manual, key switch terminal 5 green-blue early S-30,s and green-white, later 240,s from the ignition switch to the tach induction loop ,then black-white to the coil + Terminal 5 is powered only in key start position.Terminal 2 black-white powers fuse box ignition in key run . Across wires 2 BW and 5 GB or GW is shown a resister,providing reduced coil voltage such as a ballast resister,when the key is on. Looking at the tach operating on the coil positive induction circuit I would guess the MSD + tach should work with out any modifications to tach wiring.I have a 74 260 with MSD ,the tach operates on the coil negative. It has a ballast resister at the coil and MSD #8910 Tach adapter for points dizzy There is an in line resister in the main harness between tach and coil negative located where the harness passes through the firewall.Ichecked resistance at just under 2.2 k ohms.My tach looks like the 280 tach . Hope this helps Rick

Looking at the tach with out the wiring is identical to a three wire tach I have from a 74 260. Wiring according to 74 FSM ,top screw post (green) to 10 amp fuse, bottom screw (black)to ground.The stud connection to coil negative.There is a resister in this line between tach and coil .Looking at a MSD wire connection diagram use coil positive to MSD red wire,MSD orange to coil positive,MSD black to coil negative. The MSD white connects to dizzy Your 4 wire tach should be ok as in the ignition feed to coil positive

The FSM shows a resister in the blue wire from the tach to the coil negative .It,s a single pigtail wire male-female connection where the harness passes through the firewall.Resistance checks @ 2.17k ohms

Just had a look at a wire harness from a 74 260 ,should find what looks like an in line fuse holder taped ,single blue wire in and out.Check in the passenger side between the fuseblock and firewall grommet in the harness going to the engine compartment

I have a 74 260 automatic fuel range around 200 -220 miles .Its running rich at idle with round tops,needing minor tune up

Tube Technologies reproduces Mopar exhaust systems the 71-74 B-body slotted tips are well suited for the application, but very expensive. http://www.ttiexhaust.com/Tips.htm#slo

The green-yellow female plug to EGR solenoid The black-yellow female to throttle opener solenoid,black and green 2 wire female to water temp switch,yellow-white to thermal transmiter Distributer is green-red green-white,for man. trans

Jim,I just posted complete harness part #,s front to back in the consule harnes post.I have 2 complete 260 under hood wire harnesses 1 correctly dated removed from 1/74 car. The connecters for the EGR ,throttle and distributer are part of the main engine room harness.Diagram BE144 shows connecters in 74 260 service manual. Maybe someone can scan and post Jim the vin on the 01-260 is RLS30-021428

Here are the #,s off of 260 z harnesses removed from 01 and 05 -74 Underhood 24012 N3600 Rear Body-Taillight 2+2=24014 N4100 Coupe 24014 N3600 Main Dash 24013 N3600 Fuse Block And Relay Interior 24019 N3600 Console Harness And Rear Harness Plugs In Here Fuel Pump And Gage Underbody 24015 N3601

Jim,I will take pics when I have a moment and PM .

Jim ,I have 2 complete harnesses from 260,s with 01 and 05 date codes.The console harness is 18 inches long connecting the radio speakers defog ,antenna etc.No part number ID.If this is what your looking for I can help you out. Rick

GM had this option in the 70,s http://h-body.org/library/hbodyscans/1976_Chevrolet_Accessories/GEN0005.HTM

Any engine oil with an API C1-4 rating has ZDDP[zinc] for use in pre-catalytic converters and flat tappit cams. I'm using Shell rotella t 15-40 in my mopar and my Z http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/flat_tappet_cam_tech/index.html