samzhot240

I just bought a 71 240z recently as a donor for my 73, I have gotten what I need out of it but now I want to either sell it all or part it out. I have the complete engine that I don't need and I'd rather someone else who needs it, have it. What is a fair price to ask for it? I'm not looking to rip anyone off I just don't have any idea what its worth.

ever since i bought my car i have had the same problem where if i tried going up too steep a hill or go too fast (anything above 60) the engine would start to cut out like it wasn't getting enough gas. i put a "new" set of carbs on it and checked out the filters and all seemed to be ok but the problem never stayed away long. Finally my father clamped off the return line to the front filter and for some reason it seems to be working. is there something that could be missing from the system because i know the car had been messed with by its previous owner and we could be missing something obvious.

ever since i bought my car i have had the same problem where if i tried going up too steep a hill or go too fast (anything above 60) the engine would start to cut out like it wasn't getting enough gas. i put a "new" set of carbs on it and checked out the filters and all seemed to be ok but the problem never stayed away long. Finally my father clamped off the return line to the front filter and for some reason it seems to be working. is there something that could be missing from the system because i know the car had been messed with by its previous owner and we could be missing something obvious.

It's fixed finally! With a little custom work on my dad's part we made a small extension for the rod to where it connects to the pedal in order to give the piston on the slave cylinder more throw and finally got dome results.

I am 19, bought my car at 15 after falling madly in love with a local mechanics silver 240z. I set my heart on his but at 15 years old his $5000.00 price tag killed the dream. so i became a pro at ebay and bought 1973 online for $500. I got what I paid for at the time but I have also been re-paid ten fold by the memories I have with my father working on it and all the rides. It's no show room car but it is my most prized possession and I would rather die in my car than sell it or crash it. It is quite possibly the most obnoxious shade of grabber orange but I fell in love with it and no one could talk me out of it. My car sort of defines me, it's got its quirks but its got way more personality than most can deal with at one time...

Ok so there is adjustment on the pedal itself? because neither my father or i could find any kind any we actually tried changing the hole that the master cylinder piston attaches to but it didn't help at all. My dad really felt being able to adjust the throw on the pedal would make a difference but we couldn't figure out how.

Hi I'm just wondering if anyone out there knows of any "specialists" in the Central NY area i mean they don't have the be strictly a datsun tech but a good mechanic that you may have trusted with your Z at one time or another.

wow thanks for all the tips this should keep me busy for awhile in a good way. the car has always done it ever since i bought it and i can't say for sure how many miles except that i assume it is 180,000 and hopefully not 280,000. i have gotten it in reverse using the first to reverse method i just honestly didn't know if it could be bad for anything so i tried to limit it. I am pretty new at this stuff as well so all the advice is very welcome also if anyone out there knows of anyone that sort of specializes in Z's in like the Central NY area please leave me a note, i don't really trust taking it to the locals. Samantha

the free play is like 3/8in and the throw out bearing has been replaced and the flywheel and clutch were checked for trueness with a dial indicator.

we tried to adjust the amount of throw on the pedal by moving the hole fro the pin that connects to the master cylinder because it didn't feel like it was completely engaging but it really did nothing except make it even more difficult to put into the other four gears. the system has been bled several times and i'm quite sure that the master and slave cylinders are no longer the problem. My father looked at the clutch to check if it was warped and had it looked at by a local technician, He also tried to gauge as best he could to see if the pressure plate was ok and from what he could tell (he is quite mechanically inclined) it all seemed to be fine.

So ive had my car on the road for three years and for three years ive had to deal with it grinding into reverse. The throw on the pedal has been played the master and slave cylinder replaced and the clutch and pressure plate taken out and looked at. if anyone out there has any advice no matter how strange it may sound please pass it along i'm quite desperate to save reverse. thanks, sam

Okay so i just won a set of fairly nice 70-72 carbs off ebay with the intention of finally getting rid of my 73 flat tops. Thing is I'm not sure of is exactly what I need to make the swap. I know there are places that probably sell a kit or something like what I need but being new at this anyone out there with tips or experience with the topic please feel free to give some advice.

thanks for the responses and thats definitely my sweet ride! at 18 I have the coolest car in my college lot. hopefully my refund check for school will pay for a new set of carbs.

wow thanks that was really pretty much what I wanted to know and i will be sure to look the site up and see what i can find.

No its not happening this time of year because its not driven in the winter, it happens from spring to early fall. It started out periodically the second summer it was on the road and as the summer progressed to fall it happened more and more until I had to take it off the road early. There is a heat shield and both pumps do work and most of the time there is fuel flow and good spark I just can't say for sure that they are when it happens unfortunately I can't check it when it happens because I'm usually away from home and it never happens at an idle.

Is vapor lock a possibility on the 73 Hitachi flat tops because I am having some engine problems that can't really be pinpointed to a certain thing? There's usually a decrease of engine power after its been driven for around 10minutes. The loss is sporadic and sometimes only happens once but sometimes it will cause me to pull off the road to allow it to clear itself up.

Is vapor lock a possibility on the 73 Hitachi flat tops because I am having some engine problems that can't really be pinpointed to a certain thing? There's usually a decrease of engine power after its been driven for around 10minutes. The loss is sporadic and sometimes only happens once but sometimes it will cause me to pull off the road to allow it to clear itself up.

So I should be adding a flex agent right into the paint and do I add it to the topcoat as well Because I plan to run the black Stripes right down the air dam so I'll have to do the topcoat as well. It couldn't have been the weather that caused the cracking because I don't drive the car before April (whenever the snow melts) or after October( whenever they predict frost or snow). It was probably a combination of human error and lack of knowlegde on the topic so I plan to take it to an auto tech guy to see what he can recommend to me cause I really want it to come out perfect(or as close to it). Thanks for the tips this site was the best thing I ever came upon since I bought my car. My dad's pretty good with this stuff but me being only 15 at the time and his rustyness on the painting and restoration part I couln't have half the car without it. woo-hoo!