ZsRUSTIN

Hey Guys, I have searched and can't find anything about running Tripple Webers using vacuum advance. I have a 1973 240Z that is stock except for the Webers, Pertronix ignition and 6-1 headers. The Webers have 30mm chokes installed and run pretty well. I'm just looking to get a little better driveability and maybe better mileage. I have rebuilt the stock distributer and the vacuum advance starts to to move at 12 pounds of vaccume and finishes its "curve" at 15 pounds. The diaphram holds vacuum for at least 15 minutes, so its working OK. I believe the vacuume line needs to be on the air cleaner side of the throttle valve, but there are no fittings to connect to. I'm not sure how close the port has to be to the valve. I have read that the Mikunis have a port for this, but I'm not sure where is it located? If I connect the hose to the fitting on the Cannon manifold the vacuum advance pulls in right away. No good... Has anyone modified thier carbs to enable the vacuum advance? Thanks, Doug .

This is the exact same thing that happened to me. (PayPal on Feb 16th. Payment Sent (ID #9M175536U6526764C) I would have ordered and paid for a second one if I thought it got lost or something but I never got an answer. Still no CD... So now I just rely on great members like sblake01 for my parts #s. Doug

Stephen, thanks for the speedy reply, Doug

Thanks Guys, I also neded the part # for the bumper (face bar) itself. I called MSA, shipping was over $100 to NJ. Thanks again

Does anyone have the OEM nissan part #s for the 70-72 front bumper and L & R mounting brackets. My local dealer says he doesnt have access to 240Z parts guide. I have searched but cant find them. I have a 1973 Z and would like to install the earlier bumpers. I believe the original 1973 ones are NLA. These will be the last parts to go onto a 2 year total restoration. Thanks, Doug

I just got this Optical trigger ignition at a local you-pull junkyard off a 260Z. The guy charged me $6.95 with tax. I took the distributer,coil, and all the electrics you see here. It came with a epoxy type coil. The transister has a Motorola symbol on it. I took it home, cleaned the contacts, hooked it up to 12 V and gave it a spin. It ZAPPED the S**T out of me... I'm guessing they were pretty reliable. Thanks, Doug

I installed the 4X4 calipers last year and also had trouble bleeding them. I had the same symptoms as you do. Hard pedal, no braking action. The problem was I installed aftwermarket braided S/S lines from M/S. The lines were a bit longer than the stock rubber lines causing the lines to loop up from the mounting point and back down to the caliper. They were about 5-6 inches above the caliper and would not allow the air to flush out . I finally removed the cailpers, holding them above the SS brake line while bleeding and that did the trick. Good luck

Yes, it is very effective and environmentally friendly. The city I work for uses a portable soda blasting set-up to remove graffity and removing temporary traffic lines painted on street surfaces. There is very little heat build up as in sand so you dont have to worry about warping body panels either.

My '73 Z (MFG date 12-72) has a small upper and lower rubber tab on the front of each quarter window that mates up with the door weatherstriping. I see the later one piece long moulding for sale on E-Bay. Was this a update that will fit my cars quarter window? My Datsun restore book states "on later models, the metal backed moulding comes off by removing four screws", but I see no threaded holes on my windows. The seller states they work on all 240Zs, and the small tabs are no longer available. Thanks, Doug

I just got my car painted and had the fenders and sugar scoops painted seperately. I see in the parts book there is a "packing" between the two parts. The Nissan part # 83811-E4101 comes up not available. Has anyone found something to use for this. Is it just a rubber gasket or is it like the fender welting on the old VW beetles. I am guessing it is thin enough that you don't really see it when looking at the fender after its been assembled. My car had nothing between the 2 parts. The packing is # 30 in the picture. Thanks

Hi Guys, does anyone out there have the Nissan part number for a 1973 (mfg. 12/72) hood. I cant find my parts CD and my local dealer doesnt even have a book for the 240s. Thanks, Doug

Hey Guys, I got my new wheels a while ago and just had a chance to check out the fit. I had the front suspension apart installing new struts. I got the Ansen Sprints from American Racing. (#A695748, 15x7, 4/4.5) They are the same wheels MSA sells for $820 plus shipping. They call them the "flashback" wheels. I got them from Wheelsforless.com, with center caps, chrome lug-nuts & chrome stems , delivered to my door for $536. They are not the latest trick wheel, but IMO they look great on the early model Zs. I have bolted them up and there is plenty of clearance even with the Toyota truck caliper upgrade. They look like the wheels Bob Sharp sold in the old catalogs, except in 15". Yes, they are this shiney... I'll post some pics when I get them installed. I will be using Yokohama AVIX 205/60/15s

Hey guys, I knew you would like this. I showed the books to my wife last nite (all excited) and all she could come up with was "huh". To kenz240Z, the AM-FM comparison manual is from Hitachi, with the radio model # on it. This ones very technical. Funny stuff. Doug

So my '73 240Z is "out of service" for the winter and as I am bored out of my mind I decide to take a look at my non-working clock. I read a post yesterday about removing the clock through the back of the glove box. So today I go out to the garage and remove the glove box liner and look what I found. The books were in a sealed plastic bag and in perfect condition. It was a nice surprise, much better than the last surprise I found when removing parts. (RUST) The top one is a comparison of AM and FM, one is for the radio (the one in my car) and the consumer information book has acceleration and passing distances in it for all the 73 models. Here is the inside of the "AM -FM" pamphlet. I'm not sure what kind of car that is, but he seems to be getting a little sideways... I was so excited about my find I never got the clock out. Doug

Hey Guys, I have repainted my doors, fenders hood and front parts and now I'm getting ready to do the back half/roof area. My question is the car was treated by Ziebart in 1975, they did a great job because theres very little rust in the car. The problem is all the little 3/8 holes in the jambs and the back hatch area. Should I just buy some plugs and not worry about it or try to patch them up. I dont want to cause any problems by welding patches, and I think I will have a hard time since the "Gooey Mix" is everywhere, and might foul up the weld. All the holes are in blind areas. There are 8 holes in the rear hatch area alone. I'm not going to show the car, I just want it to look nice. Any idea for some "trick" plugs? Thanks, Doug