RCR Z

View Advert Deck Lid Needed Need a Deck Lid to continue my 70 240Z restoration. A deck lid indecent condition from any fitting year will work. Advertiser RCR Z Date 12/06/2020 Price $1.00 Category Parts Wanted Year 1970 Model 240Z  

Sorry to have confused you. Hatch, lift gate, rear hatch, hatchback, they all reference a door that opens......Miriam Webster agrees!!

View Advert ‘70 240Z Lift Gate Wanted Looking for rust free lift gate for preferably 70 Z but can make a later Series 1 work. Advertiser RCR Z Date 04/19/2020 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1970 Model 240Z  

Not sure of their full offerings but have you tried Affordable Auto Color or Tasco Auto Body Supply in Austin? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

You aren’t nuts, but if the Tach worked before the Pertronix install and the wire as you found them, logically to me it may not be the wires found. The Tach fix described is easy to do and put back if it does not change the issue. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I had a very similar problem with my ‘70. Check out this link for the fix per Ian at Pertronix: Petronix Ignition Module https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Eclassiczcars%2Ecom%2Fapplications%2Ftapatalk%2Findex%2Ephp%3F%2Ftopic%2F59838-Petronix-Ignition-Module&share_tid=59838&share_fid=83168&share_type=t Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Mine also had cracks causing it to fall off easily. To avoid cutting away the foam, I used standard safety wire that is used for securing nuts/bolts on race cars etc. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Good news Guys, Ian at Pertronix had the answer! On the back of the Tach there is a white wire that is looped and fastened via a plastic block, metal bracket and 8mm nut. Ian’s instructions were to unloop the wire one loop at a time. As you can see there was only one loop. So I pushed the wire with the black band through the plastic block to make the loop larger. The Tach now revs through the entire range. At least up to 5200 where I decided to stop. Will have to wait for her to get on the road before checking it up to redline!!! Thanks for all your input and I hope this info helps others! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Thanks guys!!! Will let you know what happens! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

There is nothing electrical about the choke so I think it has to with the motor RPMs. To your point of current, as the rpms increase doesn’t the alternator current? The car is fitted with the MSA internal regulator alternator but don’t think that should make a difference? Alejandro at MSA told me today they have no idea why this happens on some but not others? Not sure if the earlier models had different wiring with respect to the Tach than did later models? More digging to find out but will let you know the outcome. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

At start up with full choke Tach reads zero. Once warmed up enough to decrease choke, the Tach begins reading at about 1500 RPM. I double checked the RPM with an external meter and they match closely. I don’t believe it is the Petronix II but MSA said that the 3.0 ohm would produce a hotter spark??? They could not provide an explanation or fix as this was described as an anomaly. My typical luck! I will take your suggestion this weekend a see what happens. I expect that it will return to normal. Thanks for your help. Dennis Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Hey All, Installed the Petronix Ignition Module and 3.0 Ohm Blaster Coil from Motorsport Auto on my 70 240. Per instructions for the 3 ohm coil, the ballast resistor was eliminated and leads connected together. The car starts and runs better than before with points but noticed that above 1500 RPM the Tach no longer works?? Has anyone had a similar experience and resolution? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Thanks for the comments guys. A PO switched out the Series 1 console and fitted what I believe to be Series 2. It is not in great shape with damaged fuse block cover and missing ashtray/cover. So I am planning to use the same walnut to fabricate new pieces to match the choke lever knob. Just a little custom wood bling to a non original console. Will post some finished photos. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Lowes carries 3mm M3- .50 x 6 that worked to replace the fine threaded screw on my 70. You may have to either drill the recess larger or grind down the head to fit the knob. Once the poly dries the broken/missing knob will be replaced this home custom walnut knob. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I am in! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

You are correct! The ITS racers are very creative with modifications to gain performance. I have what is left of one in my shed that only left enough metal to cover the air filter and hold the filter. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Looking to re-enter racing by going vintage with a 240Z already built race car. The more complete the better but not necessary. Does need to be basically rust and major crash free. Located in Texas but willing to road trip for the right car. Any leads would be appreciated. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Great day of vintage racing with four Zs in the field! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

The Bear Mountain Bridge Road and the Route 9s nearby must be a blast to drive in your Z!!! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile