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Every powder coater I have used has a minimum charge to cover the cost of getting set up and running the oven. Maybe your cost per part would go down if you had some more parts to throw in and have coated the same color.

Problem solved...it was the seat belt interlock. Un-plugged the under seat connections and it cranked right up. Everyone here is awesome! Thanks so much for the help. Now that it runs though it kinda bothers me that I have disconnected wires under there. How can I reconnect everything and not have this problem?

The click is coming from something in this area. Not sure what these on the firewall are though.

Dead cell in the battery has not been ruled out. I'll carry a voltmeter with me. I have not looked at fuses. I'll check them second. Checked the ground on the battery and all connections on the starter...all good. Is there some place other than those mentioned I should check? Thanks for your help.

Yea sure did. As a matter of fact when I got to the shop they had it on a charger thinking it was the battery. Thing is the body guy does not feel comfortable working on it so I'm going to go back to the shop and do it myself. I would like to know what I'm looking for before I go but on such a simple car I'm not sure what else it could be.

So I had a body shop friend of mine fix the rusty rockers on my 260. In the process the hood, fenders and cowl were pulled. The seats came out and the carpet was pulled back out of the way so the welding could be done safely. Went to pick it up yesterday and it would not start. When you turn the key you can hear a click from around the starter but the starter does not turn over. I used a straight screw driver to jump the starter and it did turn over. Figuring it must be the solenoid we replaced the starter and solenoid. Still have the same problem. Anyone have suggestions as to where I should go from here?

I used a $10 one from Harbor Freight on aluminum pipe and it worked great.

It does not matter what they offer it only matters what the true value is. Do your research to establish a realistic value (not 2-3x the realistic value) and then stick to your guns....don't let them intimidate you. Wreck was not your fault so it's on the insurance company to make you whole. If they are not willing to pay the realistic value go to your state insurance commissioner and file a complaint. Make sure the insurance company knows thats what you're doing too. Stay strong...they will pay. BTW - what I found in just a quick search on a 74 260 an average driver value is around 3k while a very good one is valued at 6k. Also don't get into a shouting match...it won't help. While they have to pay you they don't have to sell it back to you and if your dealings get to contentious they may decide not to deal with you on the buy back.

Hate to add to it as well but I ordered mine 12/3 and have not seen it either. I emailed the "Mike Gholson [sales@classiczcars.com]" address a few weeks back asking about it but never got a response. It's not a huge deal but I would like to know whats going on with it.

I know nobody has ever heard this story before but the rust is worse than I thought. The PO lied about replacing the floors. Alot of what was done underneath the car was done to hide problems. The inner rocker is almost completely gone and the floors need some pacth work. If I have to I will fab new inners also but I have located a 76 280 2+2 donor car that has very little rust. Does anyone know how different these are from my 260 and whether I could just cut out the whole rocker assembly?

I was afraid of that. I know there are subtle differences but 78 and earlier 280 2+2's should be close enough to use as is or at least sections from right. If I can't locate any 2+2 panels I was also thinking about combining 2 coupe parts to make one 2+2. For instance the rocker panels. I can buy new rockers from several places. What if I bought two drivers side rockers, cut them and the re-welded into one longer rocker for my car. Seems like that would work. Any thoughts or suggestions anyone?

So I have a few problem areas on my 260 2+2 that I want to fix ASAP. The PO replaced the floor and freshend the rest of the underside several years back. Unfortunately the shop that did the work did not do such a great job around the perimeter. The problem spots are the lower doors, rockers, lower rear quarter and the lower portion of the front fenders...behind the wheels. I am not in a position to restore at this point. What I want to do is fix these areas and leave in primer until I can restore properly. The question is what body parts from the coupes match up with the 2+2. I've always thought that the car from the door forward (including the door) was the same. Is this just wishful thinking on my part?

That's one beautiful Z! I'm not one for major modifications but a few subtile changes like lowering just a bit and the small flares look great. It's funny but I have never been a fan of the 2+2's. I wanted something the faimily could ride in also though. Now that I have one it's really growing on me.

So I have been lurking here for a while but this is my first post. I live in Canton Georgia about 30 minutes north of Atlanta. I have a 70' 240 that is partially disassembled. I'm not doing a full resto just fixing some things here and there although, I have to say, seeing some of the amazing things you guys have done makes me want to build a rotisserie and start tearing it down. I also just bought a 74 260 2+2 thats going to be my daily driver for a while. I've attached a few shots of the newest.