patjamejam

How Did you fix it...it seems like you got it Walter....it makes perfect sense. Thank you for the info

My 72 240z is taking me on a shop tour .....3 trys at 3 shops and I still have a rear wheel that is kinda stuck/ slow turning...binding up......not turning fluidy. Pretty sure brake related... Shop1....Start after I replaced driver side rear wheel cylinder....took back readjust... Shop2....Adjust brake seemed better....but after a short time sticking again bad.... could use of ebrake make this happen? (like it doesnt completely release?) Shop3..."yeah man that brake was locked up....we had to use a rubber malit on it and it broke the brake drum" well I got a new drum....they felt they fixed it....on the way home after a mile I heard a brake related rubbing but this time in Pass rear wheel.....I stopped called AAA again.... The rim was so hot.....only one like that... Please help any insight....or even a great z shop in la.... Love my Z hate this one dingleberry. thanks Pat

I live in venice, ca. The sound changes pitch from 3 to 4 and is worse/louder in 4th. The only shop(MIKE's Z) I've used is 45 miles away....They rebuilt my 4speed 8months /3000miles ago so in a way I hope it is the tranny My plan, check rear end fluid....then if still bad... off to the shop she must go.

arne....interesting..when i pull her out of gear at 60mph+ no more whine.

5th Thank you......but Jackpot lube?......is this rear end oil? If it is I love the term. please clarify

Ok todays issue is a whinning sound has developed... it seems like from the rear end but only starts in 3rd and 4th at 40+mph....? Just wondering rear end....trans or what this could be. Seems to be ok (no whin) in 1st n 2nd gear Basicly coasted home, in coast mode there was no whinning... any idea's??? thanks

zed- you are correct sir . gonna buy new coil and ignition

I believe I have stock, but I thought I had points too.....How can I determine?

So I looked at this mechs work, he wired it with out anything connecting to the ballast resistor? Is this a major problem ? shorts? The amp meter is bouncing in the + side when driving. please asdvise?

stevej got it back from shop, they cleaned up the wiring from coil to dist. (there were some janky connections) of course the car ran .....but time will tell. seemed to idle lower and ruffer.....Also learned i have that petronix inside dist electonic ignition....not points. Removing the cap the brass rail thing looks worn......the middle is black the rest is still brass......do these wear out?

When i say stop i mean turning the car off.

Stevej ok Car will start cold great......drive for 5miles to 50 miles stop...not long....starts up but then dies within 2 miles. Always does this after a stop......doesnt descriminated 5min or two hours it will start drive and die within 5 miles . Seems to do it under load....running 70 miles per hour and then it will die....then cut back on a sec later, then die......I throw it in nuet. and it idles but at like 700.....i put it back in gear power foe a sec but then starts cuting out under load.

Dave, thanks.Yes Stock Dist. Would the car run most of the time and then die sometimes if gap and/or dwell is off? The nightmare about this issue is it is intermitent.

FastWoman Thanks, I have changed many of those items listed: plugs ,cap wires. Have not changed points, condenser or rotor. Or coil what and where is the drop resitor located? Thanks

MY 72 240 stock BABY HAS BEEN DYING ON ME EVERY SO OFTEN, ONLY TO START BACK UP LATER....MOST OF THE TIME! TODAY SHE DIED.....AT THE SHOP... THE MECH WAS TESTING THE SPARK AND SAID IT HAS A WEAK SPARK FROM COIL HE WAS NOT USING A METER JUST A VISUAL .... WHY WOULD I HAVE A WEAK SPARK? Car runs great most of the time, has been doing this dying thing more and more often. PLEASE ADVISE? Thanks in advance. Pat

mark thanks, i know they were on a 260.... the backspace to mount? should it be exactly the same?

I have some 5 slots and just realized the fronts are different than the backs on the fronts- 5.5wide the backs look 6wide. was this normal? dealer option stock or just totally a miss match set i bought. Damm will they work on my 72 240

I WENT AND LOOKKED AT THIS ONE. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1972-DATSUN-Z-Series-240-Z-RESTORATION-NICE-straight-/320637071201?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item4aa7756f61 LAST TAGS 1988....93k looked all stock all matching numbers orig orange rust on hood,(right where radiator is) overheater perhaps why parked 1'' x 4 rust on doglegs (not bad) typical ffloors(2 dents)but look good but have the sound deading stuff on it Rear floor deck looked good except the on one ®of the storage boxes latch screws where covered by sound deading stuff (never seen that b4, perhaps accident replacement?) rear hatch panel rusting, Hatch lil rust arond glass rails are good a few jack dings Roof has 3 dents glass is good (2 chips in windshield) orig seals this car is straight and was probably a easy fun restore when parked. it took a beating in storage. looked like it took on water, beyond just leaking. Carbs had oil still in them clucth nothing, breaks to the floor, tranny moved fine looks to have orig, oem braided hoses this is listed at $3000 too much $$$for too much work for me but im a novice at this resto thing so i dont know what matters most. this is a so cal car, with not much rust....but the dents in the roof concern me. Anyway hope it helps someone.

I SOO Feel your pain. Gotta feeling it isn't solely carb related . I would now look at a short in the dist ....frayed wire / Bad connection...or from coil to dist. Recently I had the same problem....went on for months....in summer was convinced it was vapor look.....if i waited a while she'd start right up..... sometimes could keep it running w/choke but ruff. Then one day she was running great then...smelled gas in the cabin...then died. Had Canned Air (dust off) in car so figured i'd blow off the dist and coil....besides dust it blew a wire from its connector at coil. After examing the end of the wire it had some fraying ....cut it re connected and my Z doesn't let me down any more... I'm all stock ....points and all....

i got kyb shocks....now to try and put em in. I had major issues with doing weatherstripping....called the shop $300 to put them in....i cant do that...so i'll try to put them in.

update- gear oil changed, big improvement beyond rpm thing.... tranny is smoother? you guys know my baby better than me....thank you happy holidays.

underground parked no heat....but socal so only like 60 f...I'm Hoping the gear oil does it.

Steve /Dave - thank you, i will change it and see how that works. Thanks for all your posts they really help. I'm still a novice but i do follow instructions well and this forum is amazing. Dave - loved your grn z chronicle..and all the upgrades.

Doradox- way less after it warms up....maybe50- 100 rpm......After a trans rebuild and new clutch do you usally needs to adjust anything after driving a while? I have done nothing since rebuild. thx

No noise, had amy 4speed rebuilt and New clutch in 3000 miles ago, would just go back to the shop but it is 50 la miles away(traffic central) AND I have come to the conclusion that I need to learn and do all my own repairs. I have owned 240's my whole driving life 44yr and so often have been disappointed in the work after shelling out my hard earned dough. This board has been like a manuel for me....and excited me to learn. Thank you