mholmes

Sorry, here are some more specifics - fuel injection, plugs and wires have approx 6k miles on them,

As almost all of you know Z's are notorious for having problems running if the gas tank hasn't been re-lined. I had mine done at a local radiator shop, lining is black material that they said would never come off. Car ran great after having this done up until about 2 weeks ago. Roughly 8 months. However, son has replaced the fuel filter twice so far and says it's still sputtering and dying. I haven't looked at it yet but does it sound like I have trash in the tank again?? Any help would be appreciated.....thx

Injectors are new. On the firing up, it usually turns over for 3 - 4 seconds before it cranks.

My son's car is a bear to start when it's moderately cold. It will immediately fire up run for a second or two and then die. You can re-crank it but it will die again. This will go on for at least 3 tries before it will stay running. Needless to say with the recent cold spell that we are having this is causing major problem. Is this a bad cold start valve? Has any one else experienced this? Need help asap plz. Thx.

:cross-eye Today I did a complete brake job on my son's car. i had my stepdaughter's boyfriend help me as he is more knowledgable about brakes than I am. I now have several questions. The rear drums were a &$)%&%$# to get off and put back on. Is there a trick to getting them back on as we spent over 30 min on one of them alone. Is adjustment needed each time new shoes are put on? I did replace the wheel cylinders as I was doing this too. One of the left front pads was almost completely gone and the remaining still had some pad left. However, the right side pads were still in good shape. What caused this and how do I correct it? After bleeding all system went for a drive with my help and got on a straight road and applied the brakes pretty good and the car pulls to the left like crazy. It didn't do this before the new brakes. Guessing that this is related to the condition of the old worn out pad but now I'm concerned for my 16 yr old son to be driving it. Any help that you can give to this novice is greatly appreciated.:cross-eye

Ok, thought this would be simple to find on my CD Rom service manual...but where is the ballast resistor located?

it's not a hard process to drop the tank, but you will wish that your hands were much smaller before you're done

Dropping and cleaning the tank on all old Z cars should be something that is to be expected. I have learned this the hard way that the engines, systems are very finicky and require clean tanks. For less than $200 you should go ahead and have it done cause you will have to eventually anyway.

Great, thx, funny that I can do wiring in a house and don't know squat about car systems

I hot wired my BCDD but I know that I did it incorrectly. I have it wired directly off the battery so it's a constant on. The battery is now dead on the car and I thinking that it's due to the BCDD being wired this way. What is the correct way to wire the BCDD so it's not a drain on the battery. I know the BCDD is bad since the car now idles down when shifting.

You may want to consider pulling the gas tank and having it boiled out and re-lined. I was having similar problems and went through about $1500 in repairs to a mechanic that never bothered to think of the gas tank. These cars are very picky on having super clean gas tanks. The cost is about $150-200 and a lot of radiator shops do it. As soon as I re-installed the cleaned tank my hesitation problems went away. Just something to think about.

Thanks I haven't had a chance to check the cold start valve.....hopefully this w/e. I got burned when I took it to a mechanic as one of the main problems I had with the car was the gas tank but he refused to believe that it was causing my hesitation problems. Needless to say this is what has me questioning if my car is really cold natured....I appreciate all help on this one.

I've had the '77 280z since Jan but as it's been a work in progress it never got cranked when it was cold until now as the temp here in TN has dropped. The mechanic that I had do some work on it told me that these cars are notorious for being cold natured. Is this the case ? I cranked it on Mon mrng to drive to work and it immediately died. It recranked again but died again. On the 3rd try it stayed cranked. My concern is 1) are all fuel inj Z cars like this 2) do I have an easily fixable problem....once it gets warm it's fine except for my idle problem which has been with the car since I got it...going to try to eliminate this idle problem soon.

When shifting up and down the idle remains high (2000 - 2,200) for 2 to 3 seconds before dropping down to normal (800). I've checked for vacuum leaks and can't find anything but I'm at my wits end on the idle problem. I'm trying to get the bugs worked out before my son gets his license. If I can take it out of the loop on the stock throttle body I would just as soon do that.

Can I disable this to solve my idle problem? If so are there any problems resulting from this?