moonpup

Hi, I'm 36 years old and foreign born. I love taking long trips with an occasional zip thru the fast lane! I flourish in warm sunny climates and react badly to rain and snow. Pamper me and shower me with gifts and I will give you years of happiness!

Check this thread out, it might help you. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29754

Thanks Arne, they belong to a friend that moved to Oregon and left them with me to sell for him. Said they were Enkei's and I just took his word for it. (The only markings I could find were wheel size & max weight load...no mfg. name)

I'll join in on this "fork in the road" :laugh: I've got this set of Enki 14x6.5 (minilight copies) for $350. No caps or lugs.

My service manual for the 240Z's auto tranny has an issue date of July 25, 1970. I wonder if these were put out before or after the auto equipped Z's began life.

At least that "torquey" driver appears the be wearing a set panasports! Edit: Upon closer examination, they look more like panasport knock-offs.

Total BS - likely from someone with no understanding of economics. I'm seeing alot of "he's" in the replys regarding the copy of this email I recieved and posted here in an effort to determine the accuracy of the information it contained. The email did not indicate who the author was, be it male or female. It was however, NOT ME!

That's a great pic of the window crank using the back drop of red stained wood.

Opp's...missed that!

Get your check book out and start shopping here, http://www.classicdatsun.com/. Much cheaper than buying someones car just for the interior.

Got this info in an email this morning and was wondering, is this truly helpful information or just more internet BS? I know the part about filling-up while a delivery is being made is true, but what about the rest? "May be worth sending out to our folks. Especially those field travelers who fill up multiple times a week! I don't know what you guys are paying for gasoline.... but here in California we are also paying higher, up to $3.50 per gallon. But my line of work is in petroleum for about 31 years now, so here are some tricks to get more of your money's worth for every gallon.. Here at the Kinder Morgan Pipeline where I work in San Jose , CA we deliver about 4 million gallons in a 24-hour period thru the pipeline. One day is diesel the next day is jet fuel, and gasoline, regular and premium grades. We have 34-storage tanks here with a total capacity of 16,800,000 gallons. Only buy or fill up your car or truck in the early morning when the ground temperature is still cold. Remember that all service stations have their storage tanks buried below ground. The colder the ground the more dense the gasoline, when it gets warmer gasoline expands, so buying in the afternoon or in the evening....your gallon is not exactly a gallon. In the petroleum business, the specific gravity and the temperature of the gasoline, diesel and jet fuel, ethanol and other petroleum products plays an important role. A 1-degree rise in temperature is a big deal for this business. But the service stations do not have temperature compensation at the pumps. When you're filling up do not squeeze the trigger of the nozzle to a fast mode. If you look you will see that the trigger has three (3)stages: low, middle, and high. In slow mode you should be pumping on low speed, thereby minimizing the vapors that are created while you are pumping. All hoses at the pump have a vapor return. If you are pumping on the fast rate, some other liquid that goes to your tank becomes vapor. Those vapors are being sucked up and back into the underground storage tank so you're getting less worth for your money. One of the most important tips is to fill up when your gas tank is HALF FULL or HALF EMPTY. The reason for this is, the more gas you have in your tank the less air occupying its empty space. Gasoline evaporates faster than you can imagine. Gasoline storage tanks have an internal floating roof. This roof serves as zero clearance between the gas and the atmosphere, so it minimizes the evaporation. Unlike service stations, here where I work, every truck that we load is temperature compensated so that every gallon is actually the exact amount. Another reminder, if there is a gasoline truck pumping into the storage tanks when you stop to buy gas, DO NOT fill up--most likely the gasoline is being stirred up as the gas is being delivered, and you might pick up some of the dirt that normally settles on the bottom. Hope this will help you get the most value for your money. DO SHARE THESE TIPS WITH OTHERS! WHERE TO BUY USA GAS, THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT TO KNOW. READ ON Gas rationing in the 80's worked even though we grumbled about it. It might even be good for us! The Saudis are boycotting American goods. We should return the favor. An interesting thought is to boycott their GAS. Every time you fill up the car, you can avoid putting more money into the coffers of Saudi Arabia. Just buy from gas companies that don't import their oil from the Saudis. Nothing is more frustrating than the feeling that every time I fill-up the tank, I am sending my money to people who are trying to kill me, my family, and my friends. I thought it might be interesting for you to know which oil companies are the best to buy gas from and which major companies import Middle Eastern oil. These companies import Middle Eastern oil: Shell...........................205,742,000 barrels Chevron/Texaco.........144,332,000 barrels Exxon /Mobil...............130,082,000 barrels Marathon/Speedway... 117,740,000 barrels Amoco............................62,231,000 barrels Citgo gas is from South America, from a Dictator who hates Americans. If you do the math at $30/barrel, these imports amount to over $18 BILLION! (oil is now $90 - $100 a barrel Here are some large companies that do not import Middle Eastern oil: Sunoco..................0 barrels Conoco..................0 barrels Sinclair.................0 barrels B P/Phillips............0 barrels Hess.......................0 barrels ARC0....................0 barrels If you go to Sunoco.com, you will get a list of the station locations near you. All of this information is available from the Department of Energy and each is required to state where they get their oil and how much they are importing."

Looks like someone glued a pair of jeans to the dash. But hey....I'm old school with a purist streak, what do I know! If it works for you, that's all that matters.

In Sugarland, Tx, a suburb of Houston, they just put out some Dodge Chargers with stealth graphics that are hard to see unless viewed from certain angles. (They are reflective at night though.) In Houston itself, they're using beat-up siezed cars, rentals and strech limo's as spotter cars! http://www.click2houston.com/investigates/15524095/detail.html

From another source: Generation X defies definition by Jennifer Jochim, Outpost Contributor Generation X can technically be defined as the generation following the Baby Boomers. Xers were born between 1965 and 1980, 1961 and 1981, 1964 and 1979, 1963 and 1979, 1965 and 1975 or since the mid-1960s, depending on which source you use. For practical purposes we will say that Generation X was born between 1965 and 1980, now ranging in age from 17-32 and usually judged by characteristics assigned to them by the media.

Mark nailed it alright, but more with the above statement. When the automotive guru's talk about a particular generation wanting and purchasing the cars of their youth, it's those vehicular jewels that were unobtainable due to cash flow or parental restrictions ().

Ahhh...you're both dwelling on the wrong date subject! Per Wikipedia, "Generation X is a term used to describe generations in many countries around the world born from the 1960s and 1970s to 1982, although the exact temporal boundaries of Generation X are not well defined." So the Gen-Xers would have reached driving age (assuming 16 yrs old) at the earliest 1976 and as late as 1998! The majority of which was long after the glory days of the muscle cars and the hoopla of the 240Z era. These were not the cars of their youth.

Actually, reversed text can work and your "signature pic" is a good example of how when done right, it really pops!

Harry Henderson handles the harness hangers that the harness hangs on! Sorry... couldn't resist that. :eek: Your local Nissan dealer can probably still get them for you. If not, check eBay or I'm sure someone here is bound to have some they're willing to sell or let you have for the price of postage.

I was frustrated with that same problem. I solved it by increasing the length of both the air supply and siphon hoses, adding springs over the hoses at kink points and zip-tying it all together. Problem solved!

As far as I'm concerned, it's a great deal for the money. I've got the same unit (8 yrs. old) and am very happy with it. Looks like they moved the lighting to an outside mounted enclosed unit verses one mounted on the inside like my older one. I added a shelf and casters on the bottom to move around if needed.

There's been alot of "Ohhhh's & Ahhhh's" from the folks here when viewing the "Mull" project, most of which has been farmed out. Are his efforts now to be "tarnished" because he has not done this with his own hands? I'm pretty sure it would be extremely hard to find someone who has done 100% of their own restoration. One may have expertise with metal work/paint/mechanicals but how are they with upholstry? See what I'm getting at. So where does anyone draw the line?

Most blasting media will peen/mark the surface (albeit uniformly) especially on soft metals like aluminum thus causing more labor (think lots of sanding on your part) just to get back to a point at which you started with. If you wish to polish an aluminum part, keep it out of the blast cabinet.

That depends on what finish you ultimately want for the valve cover. If you're attempting to clean the cover via blasting with the intention of eventually polishing it, you'll just be creating alot of extra work for yourself. (Trust me, I made that mistake) However, if you want a nice satin/matte finish, then glass beads do an excellent job. For ease of maintenance, you can spray the finished cover with a coat of high heat clear. Be aware though that the clear will darken the final color somewhat.

The following may help you decide what's best for your particular application. Glass beads & aluminum oxide are what I'm currently using. http://www.nortonsandblasting.com/nsbabrasives.html

It is truly a beast....too bad it's in a ho-hum body. JMO :tapemouth