moonpup

At least Zs-ondabrain's units are better suited to the Z than these. http://www.zcar.com/forums/read.php?f=1&i=647213&t=647191#reply_647213

Check this out. This thing is almost as bad as that 70 flame job! http://houston.craigslist.org/car/151159866.html If you end up calling the owner....SPEAK REAL LOUD I understand he has trouble hearing.

It just means that there's alot of rust hidden behind the sheet metal and its come through at those spots. Actually, the seller is being honest and telling everyone that this is basically a rust bucket. Besides telling us about the wheel wells, he also states nearly every panel has blisters (I read...rust) under the paint!

Here's six reasons why you should forget about this car.

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Why ask for recommendations when obviously you had already picked a place and had the work done?

This one in the U.S. went for $156 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CAM-COVER-DATSUN-240Z-NISSAN-2400-ROCKER-VALVE-S30-L6_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ34202QQitemZ4626836593QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW Another in Great Britain got up to around $280 or something and didn't meet reserve.

Turko's a lightweight...He needs: Marrrrrrrrrrrrrrvin Zindler, EeeeeeeeeeeyeWitness News!

I've seen several early Z's, including mine, that had the screws in the bottom of the door panel as mentioned. All these were located in Texas. However, several members from other states have stated their cars also had them. So unless the Dealers nationwide were directed to correct some flaw using these screws, I'd say there's a good chance that they are original to the car. Edit: ( In another thread, I mentioned my car was #3548, the twin to Wick's car. Did some further checking and I was off by one number. My car was #3549. Still close and oh yeah, they both came thru the port of Houston.)

http://www.zzxdatsun.com/

Did you ever check if the needle valves were working properly by blowing in to them as your mechanic suggested?

They are ambidoortrous. (they'll work on either side) I can put together a 'set' but again, they will need to be painted on your end.

I hope this doesn't mean your 12 peps had chili before they got in!

Here's some pic's of the mirrors I have. If they are the ones you need, PM me and we can work out a deal. All the mirrors I have will need re-painting. I can bead blast them before shipping for a little extra.

Your profile doesn't mention where you live, but if you're in one of the HOT southern states you will definitely want a good dependable AC system in your daily driver. That eliminates the 240Z from your picks.

California cars had a 'V' in the vin# (example: HLS30UV) and all other states didn't. Their computers should pick that up when they enter your vin#. Or just bring your FSM with you and show them. It's in the front General Info section.

Thanks for the pic's guys, Well, I've only got a dozen of them. Is that enough?

There's a rubber bumper that goes there. They get knocked off fairly easily. If you don't want to replace it with the original part, I'd at least find a plug of some sort to put in there. Dog legs rust easy enough without a big hole to let water in!

Can you post a good close-up pic of one? I've got a mess of mirrors from 260's and 280's and may have what you need.

Someone did.

That's correct, except the turbo had an extra piece on the air intake end of the blower motor that curved down below the block to help draw in cooler air than what was available in the engine compartment. Just some trivial info that doesn't help us cuz we can't see that either.

I know the front bumper was different on the 73's but if the back was the same as the earlier ones, then here you go. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240Z-NOS-OEM-Rear-Bumper-Face-Bar-Ends_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ40017QQitemZ8051653425QQrdZ1

It's the front.

Where are you located? I've got a NOS 73 bumper but it'll cost you the same as what the dealer would want. (Brand new ain't cheap)

You're right, the floats don't just suddenly go out of adjustment. But accidents happen and they might have gotten out of whack while you were checking the needle valves. Just trying to think of reasons why a float bowl would overfill and debris and adjustment were the first two obvious things to come to mind. Another obvious situation would be a compromised float that had become saturated with fuel and thus was no longer able to float but I'm sure you would have spotted that. The only other thing I can think of is the float kinking at the hinges or possibly the float slipping off one end of the rod during re-installation.