moonpup

Ronnie, Where are you coming up with these cars. First it's Fuelie Corvettes & SS Cameros and now a Alfa Romeo Disco Volante. Is there something in the water over there in Mansfield, Georgia.

Hey Arne, Does this mean you're gonna put in a "Period" CB radio also? Breaker, Breaker 19 ...You got your ears on? What's your 20?

Good snag Arne. If you squint your eyes, it even kinda looks like the stock unit (less the cassette part) :stupid:

Yowzer.....that's some nasty looking sh*t. Cleaning it from this point depends on what you have more of.... time or money. Personally, I'd look for a good used one to buy. If you want to salvage those, maybe soak in solvent for a while then scrape away. When all residue is gone, then paint, cad plate or chrome, your choice . Good luck.

Buy this, follow directions in the FSM and you should be good to go. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240Z-Carb-Air-Flow-Meter_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33551QQitemZ8038523473QQrdZ1 Edit...(yes it's in Houston, no it's not me)

Don't forget; A) Proper tire pressure Clean air filters C) Correctly gapped spark plugs D) Amputated lead foot...(Optional):eek:

Ain't that the truth! It's very possible that the previous owner and car had been in the Arizona area for some time and had vapor locking problems. A local dealer/mechanic suggests the wrap as a solution and voila ...here we are today. Assume the worst (Asbestos) and remove carefully, give it a shot without the wrap, and if you experience vapor lock you can then try some of the solutions suggested here or re-wrap. Good luck.

Well, I never needed that item, so I'm not sure what direction to point you in. It was a dealer item, so you could start there. However, before you replace it, you might check with others in your area to see if its really needed or if there is another alternative to keeping vapor locking in check.

The asbestos wrapping was in response to vapor locking problems the 240Z was experiencing. You can remove it and see if you have any problems but you do live in an area known for hot tempatures.

Hi Will, I agree with Tom. If your main objective is to insure the smoother operation of your cables, then I say save your money for something you really need. I removed, cleaned and "re-lubed" all mine in addition to lubricating all the pivot points on the items they operated, and the difference was night and day. Never had a problem for the next ten years.(Don't know about after that cuz I sold the car! ) Graphite might be the best way to go for the cables but I just used WD-40 both to clean and "lube" and like I said they worked great.

Good score Bill!

So other than screwing up and saying S30 as opposed to 240Z, I was correct in the spirit of the thread that the 1973 HLS30, the original topic of discussion, was not designed for AC. My guess is that the wrong illustration/s got sent to the printer. I would be interested to know the answer also, however, until someone who was there and involved in the decision making process enlightens us, we'll all just be speculating until we're blue in the face and we'll still not know for sure. Hey, isn't it time for some of you 8/73 & up 260Z owners to pipe in here and shed some light on the subject? Jump in, the waters fine.

Boy Alan, I don't know what to tell you. I've never owned those particular models, but I've been a junkyard dog for 30+ yrs, scavaged thru hundreds of Z's and I don't ever recall seeing a LHD with the blower motor on the LH side. Seems like it would get in the way of the pedals. Have you seen a RHD with the blower on the RH side?

I sent 20 puns to my friends with the hope that at least 10 of the puns would make them laugh. No pun in 10 did!

Hey Alan, I believe post July / August 1973 the blower remained on the right side of the dash in the LHD models. It is interesting that they had a system designed for the S30, yet they waited until 1974 to offer virtually the same system in the 260Z to the U.S. market.

What's funny is that when I was first writing my reply I had written "240Z", but changed it to S30 in an effort to be politically correct. I'll be more careful in the future or maybe that's what got me here in the first place.

If you're still planning to pull the system, which I assume you are, then to answer your earlier question, YES you will need to seal the holes left in the firewall from the high and low pressure hoses. I would try and find some type of rubber plug similar to the ones used in your floorboards. You might also check with a local company in your area that installs and works on AC units. They may have a plug designed just for that purpose.

The main problem with these units was not the units themselves but rather the fact that the S30 was not designed for an ac system. The evaporator unit was mounted such that the blower was forced to SUCK air through it. (not very efficient) Most modern units are designed to have the blower do what it was designed to do and BLOW air through the evap. unit.(mo effecient) Now combine this with vent hoses that have diameters the size of softballs and it's like trying to fart thru the Holland Tunnel! :stupid: I went rotory and replaced everything I could on my 72 and the best it would do was just keep me from sweating at highway speeds. Forget stop & go traffic...had to shut the damn thing off to keep from overheating. (Remember, we're talking Houston, TX in the summer!)

Welcome Alissa, looks like you've already jumped in with both feet are on your way to having a great ride! Hope all goes well for your project. Are you gonna keep it silver or are you considering changing colors?

As noted in the Service Bulletin, Vol.220, Introduction of Datsun 280Z Model S30 Series (1975 Models) On page 40; All California models feature a catalytic converter. In addition, these models are equipped with a floor temperature sensor which monitors any abnormal floor temperature rise." On page 97; NON-CALIFORNIA MODELS "On the non-California model, the premuffler has been installed in place of the catalyzer. This unit is not equipped with any heat-shield plates." Note: Gross Vehicle Weight (sorry, I don't have the 1978 Numbers, as I don't have that Bulletin) 1975 - 3175 lb. 1976 - 3185 lb. 1977 - 3185 lb.

I thought the factory system had the evaporator directly behind the heater control panel in the center of the dash and on top of the tranny hump. Also nobody's mentioned it yet but what kind of compressor are we talking about?

Today's Horoscope for deadflo: You are about to make new friends and come into unexpected wealth!

Do we know how deep in the bolt broke? If cj71z got lucky and it broke near the surface of the cover and it was a pretty clean break, then he might just have an opportunity to use an ez-out. Otherwise I would agree with Ed and the cover's gotta come off. Another case of BrokeBolt Outin' Brrraaaahhaaaa!

Excellent! That's almost double Victor's WAG. I was actually trying to count from memory and thought Victor was pretty close. Now we know. Thanks for your help 26th-Z, and I'll tell my friend about MSA.

Sorry..... It's in storage AND 500 miles away at his parents. (and no, i don't have one available to count either.)