george71z

Believe it or not, your local ACE hardware store may have what you need. Like John Madden says, ACE is the place. They have a real good selection of metric and stainless metric hardware, as well as metric threaded rod. If there is one near you, check it out when you determine the correct size y'all need.

Bite the bullet and get her media blasted. I had my 71 done that way in 1992 for about $350, and the paint still looks new. It went down to bare metal, and then my body guy ospho'ed it and started the rust repair. To this day, I still get compliments on my 89 Maxima pearl white finish, and folks are amazed the paint is 13 yrs. old.

You would need a clutch/brake pedal assy. for the interior and a clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder, as well as all the hydraulic piping for same. You may also need to modify the console for the manual shifter. The flywheel is different also. Any body else that has actually done this, feel free to jump in and correct/clarify/expand on this info.

Got 2 of them. $5 incl. postage. (ea.)

I have spoken with a few early 240 owners lately, and we all are wondering if anyone makes an aftermarket duct. This is the plastic, accordian-like thing that attaches to the radiator support and directs air into the fender and on into the interior. They all seem to be cracked or broken or missing. I am sure they are NLA from the dealer. Anybody know a source for these things?

Haven't seen too much lately about the seat mechanism covers that GunnerRob was planning. Any news?

good thing this guy didn't have a gun.. Maybe if he thought YOU had a gun, the situation might not have happened. But since you live in the Peoples Republic of California, you can't legally carry, even in your car. An armed society is a polite society.

I have fixed a plastic hinge from a 71 door with two small cabinet hinges and some pop-rivets. I had to notch the metal 'cover' that goes over the plastic and has the mtg. screw holes in it. This keeps the geometry of the hinge intact.

Something in red always stands out, and gets a lot of looks. I always had the notion of painting a WW II Japanese battle flag on the underside of my hood.

I dis-assembled mine and took the housings to a professional polisher. It can be done at home, if you have the proper materials and tools. LanceM is absolutely right. You don't want any debris getting into the works.

Why go to all that trouble? I have a really nice emblem with the orange fill stuff in perfect shape I can let you have for $25, shipped. It even has the mtg. posts on each end with the barrel clips. (middle post is missing)

I was given one of those as a gift about a year ago; and it is definetely the most comfortable mousepad I've ever used.

You might want to take out the passenger seat and put a small piece of 3/4 plywood over the seat mount brackets so you can lay (reasonably) comfortably while you are upside down under the dash.

Most likely it's the headlight switch. Since they are positive-switching, there is an awful lot of current going thru those teeny-weeny contacts in the switch. They are more than likely corroded or burnt a bit. Replace the switch(can be cost-prohibitive) or dismantle and clean the contacts(patience and dexterity).

Had an 84 Toyota van that would die out of nowhere on my wife, but would start and run fine when I got to it to drive it home. Finally grabbed a can of freeze spray and a heat gun; and after checking the codes on the blinking test lights that said 'ignition', I duplicated the problem in the garage. Hot and then cold. Turned out to be an 'igniter module' in the distributer. My guess is some semi-conductor device in your distributer is the culprit. (side note: the part was $400 at Toyota, but there was a 'silent recall'; they would replace it under warranty as they were discovered. Got it fixed for free.)

Pg. 178 of the Wick Humble 'bible' shows him gluing the rubber bumper on the fender channel. The parts CD or microfiche book also has the p/n for this piece.

Make sure you search past posts for advice and tips on the notorious spindle pin replacement job at the rear suspension. Don't tackle this, or replacing the rear wheel bearings, without getting some forewarning and hints. The FSM and even Wick Humble's book don't do these projects justice.

Are the rumors true that she is a distant cousin of Dale Earnhardt Jr.? Seems like they share the same publicist, at least. As for Sarah, I hear she's going racing in the Winston West series.

Are the calipers on the correct sides? If they are reversed, the bleed screws will be at the bottom, and you will never get all the air out. Did you bench-bleed the M/C before you installed it? Just a thought.

Get the front spook. It will not detract from the lines of the car; if you decide to remove it, only you will know the mtg. holes are there; and it helps keep the front end down at the speeds you KNOW you want to drive!

The blue/red stripe wire is the up lead, the blue/white wire is the down lead. The antenna body is ground.

I just bought a Harbor Freight tranny jack (the rolling scissor jack style) for $49. I also have the adapter for the floor jack. That puppy is way too high when its on the jack. Your car has to be about 2' in the air. I also agree that the #1 step is drain the tranny first. I had the trans on my 1200 dump on my chest when I pulled the driveshaft during my first clutch job.

Also check the moustache bar bushings. If they are broken up, or missing, it will also contribute to the 'thunk'.

Don't feel too bad about it. I had a (young) Nissan salesman ask an older one if Nissan had made the 240 as I was showing my car to someone at the dealership.

Use a 27mm socket. DO NOT forget to take the ratchet off the bolt before cranking the engine!!!!! (experience talking here)