george71z

I have a Japanese battle flag that I occasionally drape over my open hood at shows. Have caught some comments about it but nothing overt. I am just displaying my cars heritage, not making a political statement. I also had a boss many yrs. ago (over 30) that drove a Toyota. The rear bumper had nothing but USMC stickers on it. He was definitely a WW II vet. Letting bygones be bygones.

Is there any way to tighten up the swivel of an interior mirror? I got a brand new one from a friend, and its flopping around. Can't see any way to tighten or adjust it.

I am going to resist the urge to get on my soapbox with this topic. However...I have a magnetic sign I made for the tailgate of my truck that reads,'Guns don't kill people, drivers with cellphones do,. I also have a mirror-image printed sign that hangs from my pass. visor that says 'Get the F**K off the phone, A$$hole!; so they can read it IF they look in the mirror. What did y'all do before they invented this scourge on humanity?

If you don't have retractable shoulder belts, don't use them. I can't drive with those things on. Can't even reach the heater controls, etc.

I think this is carrying the 2 + 2 concept a bit too far.

Oh man, I got all excited, thinking you were looking for an old Russian fighter plane. They look awesome when they are restored.

It's a plug. All the lower thermostat hsgs. I could find from early cars were trashed, so I used a later year.

I know a Z owner here in Fla. that purchased a Z new in '70. He got sent back for another tour in S.E. Asia, and sold the 'new' car to a buddy. Cut to now. He and his son travel to Cali to check out a truck project; and look up this old buddy. Turns out, he still had the Z, in original shape and unmolested. He sold it back to the original owner for the same price, and the guy drove it home to Fla. It is now being freshened with all O.E.M. pieces and looks as good as ever. My best Z story.

I once drove my '71 to a local dealer, just to kind of show it off. First salesman out the door asked me if I wanted to trade it in. Another fairly young guy came out and asked another salesman 'Did we make that?' However, my closest dealer is pretty knowledgeable about the 240 and can usually get an available part.

Sean, We're gonna miss you at the convention in October at Daytona. I remember your car from the Z-fest's in Orlando. Good luck on the relo'. We'll be waiting to hear the 'I put my Z up for the winter' stories from you.

Seems to be a lot of triple carb questions lately. Here are some pics of my Weber set-up and hand-made linkage. I am by no means a machinist, but I had access to some hard aircraft aluminum (7075), a bandsaw and a grinding disc to get the shape I wanted. The linkage rod is 5/16 stainless rod with the stock Z U-bracket welded on the end, so I could use the stock setup from the firewall. The uprights and links to the throttle plates are Heim joints from a local speed shop.

Is the wording and layout of the door jamb VIN plate the same for all S30's? I realize the stamped info will be different as well as the year of manufacture, but is the rest of the plate the same from year to year? Anyone have any good pics? Thanks in advance.

I did mine without taking out the dash, so it is possible. Since I'm getting too damn old to be playing contortionist in a Z, I took out the passenger seat and put a piece of 3/4 plywood on the supports. A bit easier on the back. Also have a good trouble light available so all the hidden screws can be found.

I made a new door plate using thin gauge aluminum cut to size and rub-on lettering. Went to a local artist/office supply place and had to special order some of the fonts; but it's hard to tell from the original. Metal-stamped the date code in, and hit it with a bunch of coats of clear Krylon. If you can get a good photo of the engine plate, and know your original #'s, it shouldn't be too hard to make a duplicate. By the way, I used rivets to attach it to the doorframe.

Here in Florida, we have a process known as Year of Manufacture for old plates. You can buy a Fla. plate from a plate vendor that matches the year of your car; if the car is over 25 yrs, old; and send it to the state capitol DMV office. They will validate that it is authentic; i.e. not restored and still pass the reflectivity standards; it is sent back ; and it is your plate forever. Each county in Fla. at one time had a code number that led off the plate number based on the population of the county in the 1930 census. My county code is 19. I have a 70-71 code 19 plate on my 71 240.

If you have a friend in the military, defense industry, or check the Tyco Corp. website; there is a product known as an environmental splice that is excellent . It is basically a metal sleeve that gets crimped onto each end of the wire, and covered with a plastic sleeve that is then heat-shrunk and provides an indestructible connection that will not corrode as long as you own your car. Also, the metal pins in the connectors can be removed for cleaning, if you have the time and patience. A straight dental pick can be pushed down into the connector to release the lock tab on the metal pin. Just diagram the wire colors before you dismantle, so it goes back together the right way.

We once had a guy at work who would call the operator, and have her page Marty Cohn. The spanish-speaking workers had a blast with that one.

I can believe that the 'garage' is gone, as it was just a set created for the commercial. My firm had the same company build some aircraft mock-ups for us, and I got a CD of the 'Dream Garage' being constucted for the commercial. Luckily, there are shots from the ad on the CD so I have pics of all those Nissans.

uuhhhhh,---dare I say 'Talladega Nights'? OK, I'll redeem myself with 'Road Warrior'.

Have you tried the anti-vibe mounts for the carbs? I put them on my triples and they really cut down on the heat transferred to the carbs from the manifold. http://www.racetep.com/avibe.html

I must have a 'mutt'. My 2/71 build date Z has the vented C-pillars with metal Z emblems, but the hatch has vertical defroster elements and vents. There was no evidence of an accident that would preclude hatch replacement. The lighter is just above the ashtray and the steering wheel has holes in the spokes. It has the 2 slot plate on the console for the choke and throttle, but only came with the choke lever. I feel that Nissan used up parts that were on hand as the production changes were implemented.

Don't know how 'heat effective' it is, but I just put a flat sheet of aluminum, cut to size, on three studs that screw into the bottom of each of my Webers. I have it spaced off the bottom of the carbs by about an inch. I do know that it keeps the Weber 'gas puking' from dripping on my headers. Can't really post a picture, as my car is in the shop getting re-painted.