george71z

I had triple Webers on my '71 for years. Big bog at low end, until I put in a new engine w/ a performance cam. The linkage is critical. Make sure your linkage is rock solid and opening all carbs at the same time. I also used a Color-tune glass sparkplug to set mixture. Ran great with almost no need for constant adjustment. Only drawback was it used 1/3 more gas than the SU's.

I am here in Melbourne, Fla. Tee-shirt weather. I will not rub it in any more.

I had a spare motor when I sold it. The buyer didn't want the engine 'cause he was dropping a rotary in it.

I was in the market for a new car in 1972, but a Z was outside my budget. I purchased a Datsun 1200 coupe. I kept this car for 14 yrs. and sold it; the buyer drove it away. My boss used to call it a 120-Z.

I can help with two. One is my invoice from a car I purchased new in 1972, the other is the window sticker from an '86 I bought used in the late '90's.

Any body have any word about Mr.K.? After all, he is 104, and I'm sure he might have some health and age things going on. Personally, I would like him to keep on going! The world will be a sorrier place without him.

Here in Florida, we have the option of using a year-matching license plate on our over 25 yr. old cars. I had a 70-71 plate that was correct for my county on my '71. The plate is yours as long as you own the car. Well, back in July 2012, I unfortunately wrecked the '71. Got my agreed valuation from my insurance, and proceeded to purchase a '72 240. I had taken the plate from the '71 to return it to the friend who gave it to me. He traded me the '72 plate for my new toy. I sent the plate to DMV in Tallahassee with the requisite form and a check. They 'authenticate' the plate to make sure it is original and not restored. A month went by, no plate. My check had been cashed however. Then I got a notice to send a copy of my license, insurance card, and an additional $25. Complied with that. another month, still no plate. New check also cashed. Went online and found I could email a question or concern, and they would reply within 2 days. Sent them the story, and sure enough, 2 days later, got a reply. "CUSTOMER SERVICE RESPONSE: Thank you for your inquiry. Our records show the title for VIN HLS3023766 was cancelled due to an Out of State title on February 16, 2013. Please provide the license plate number. We hope this information will assist you." That VIN was for my '71. The insurance co. had the title and they are in Ohio. Absolutely no reference to my '72 plate. Luckily, they provide a phone number for further help. These maroons are gonna hear from me.

As the title says, I need to reinstall my tail-light lens and I am wondering what the best adhesive/sealant is to use. There was some fairly stiff white sealant on there, but it must have dried out over the years, 'cause the lens kept coming away from the housing. I cleaned it all off, and am ready to re-install. Any ideas are appreciated.

Hate to rain on your parade, but I thought # 13 was the lowest # Z out there. The first 12 were Nissan show cars and factory mules, IIRC. Bob Sharp had one of those that got the roof dented by a model at a car show. Please correct me if I'm in error.

Beermanpete takes the prize. I just mic'ed one I have on hand. 16mm it is.

Carl, I just couldn't let the Webers go. The console is there; just not in place. The engine/tranny got shifted to the right in the collision, and I pulled the console to see if I could get the car back in neutral. (shift lever was jammed against the tunnel) ARE's are 14".

I have been totally compensated. We are all settled. I just don't want my past 21 yrs. of labor to be crushed. I tried to buy it back, but they were asking too much; and I just can't do what I did 20 yrs. ago. I know this can be of use to anyone with a 240. There is just too much good stuff in there.

OK. My totaled '71 is finally up on the Cranky Ape web site. http://www.crankyape.com/default.asp?pg=DisItems&Cat=11&locID=18 It obviously doesn't run, but has a wealth of parts. There is a Crane cam in the head; The motor is out of a '72 and was rebuilt about 45,000 miles ago. Dash is mint; was recovered back in '92 and has NO cracks or blemishes. All gauges work, incl. the clock. Relays installed for the H/L's and fog lights. Crane XR-7000 electronic ignition. Taillights have been refurbished and are like new. Hatch is an original series 1, with the vents. (car was built in 2/71, so they were using leftover parts) There is no rust on any body panel. The entire right side is intact and undamaged. A.R.E. Libre wheels with brand new Sumitomo tires on them. The ad says it has a 5-speed; it's a 4-speed. I'm sure it will go cheap. Just needs to be transported to wherever you live, and dismantled. It is located at their site in Valdosta, Ga. Please, any east coast Z folk; don't let this go to a crusher. If you have the room and the time, this wreck will pay you back many times over. Auction closes on October 3.

As I posted here at the end of July, my 71 240 was totalled in an accident. The left front was pretty badly damaged, and the frame rail was bent. Insurance declared a total loss, and the car was picked up from my home by CrankyApe auctions, out of Kissimmeee, Fl. The ins. co. was willing to let me buy the car back for 4K. I can't do what I did 21 yrs. ago, so I took the full value settlement. CrankyApe is putting the car up for auction, and I would really like to see it go to a good home; i.e. some one who has the time and energy to get all the excellent parts off this car. It has a mint condition series-1 hatch, the interior has a mint condition dashboard and all gauges work, including the clock. The entire right side is in perfect shape. This car has won many awards over the past 21 yrs., including 2nd in Street Modified 240-Z at Z-con 2009 in Texas. If you are interested, the auction website is CrankyApe.com. I would really like to see my car be used to keep others alive and running.

Well, got the news today that they will let me buy it back (salvage title), but they want to reduce my payout by $4,000. Seems a little high. Has anyone else bought back a totalled car from their insurance co.? Can the buyback be negotiated somehow? What do ins. co.'s usually do in cases like this? Do they send the car to be stripped for parts (i.e. sell to Zcar source in Az.) or is it simply crushed? I will call my adjuster tomorrow and ask some questions, but if anyone has any experience with this situation, I would be most appreciative.

Lately, I've been burning DVD's from old VHS tapes my family has collected and recorded over the past 30 some-odd years. I had a few tapes that had no indication what was on them. Imagine my surprise when one of them held a Hemmings Motor News TV show that featured the 240 to 280 Z. The segment is only about 7 minutes long, but has some memorable footage in it. Old commercials, including the John Morton 240-Z, and footage from an early Motorsport Auto show. The disc is burned; and I may even keep the tape.

Got news today that insurance is declaring it a total. I asked about buying it back, with a salvage title. Will find out tomorrow. I will probably look for another early Z that has been 'finished' and make it my own. Hopefully I can part out this one. As it is now, the left front and door are the damaged areas, (including the frame rail) Everything else is perfect. We'll see what happens.

This past Friday, I was cut-off by another driver and rear-ended a mini-van. No serious human injuries, but my beloved 71 240 was trashed. I hit the right rear of the van with my left front. Since it has been 21 yrs. since it's restoration, and I now have some medical problems that would limit my ability to do the work on the car that I used to; I am posting pics of the damage and some details that are not apparent in the photos; with the question; can this car be restored, or should I total it and try to sell off the remaining good parts? The left frame rail is mangled, the radiator support as well. The left front inner fender is trash, as well as the left door.

The Z area was filled with an orange-metallic plastic that filled the space around the Z. Exactly like the emblems on the 260. I have one 280-Z fender emblem in excellent condition for $20 + shipping if you want.

Do the local police know your car is actually a growhouse?

For some reason, I have Mr. K in my thoughts. Does anybody know how he is doing? I know he has a birthday coming up in Sept.; 103, IIRC. We all owe so much to him.

FWIW, when i attended the 2011 convention in Savannah, they gave everyone a plastic mat to put under the cars that were in the convention center. When the judging was done, and the day was over, and the S30 group pulled their plastic mats out from under the cars, NOT ONE had a drop of oil on it. I was so proud.

I'm sorry, but that sounds like he turned on a vacuum cleaner. Also, note there is no exhaust heat coming from the back of the car. Normally you would see the heat waves in the video. Also, I think the 'Dolly Parton' feature is simulating air intakes found on real jet engines. As Tony D. would say, I call B.S. Notice the car never moves? He doesn't drive it, and it don't vibrate.

IIRC, the 70 and 71 doors are the same as far as the outside goes. However, looking at mine (71), the spring and hinge are the same as the later model door. You might be stuck(?) trying to get a series 1 door arse'y. or (if you're not concerned about originality) using a later model door. Good luck.

Mally002, upon closer examination, it doesn't look like the spring is removable. Are 1970 gas doors different than 1972?