MKI4EVA

turned out to be a faulty relay $300 later......ouch.

thank you for being so kind and patient with a wiring newb.

Tested all the fuses they all seam to be fine. Not even sure what I'm meant to be looking for besides seems a mess of wires. Can someone tell me how I'm meant to test for an earth wire and positive wire using a multimeter? I know how to test for continuity now and obviously voltage......

I think the car is holding to my word that I would work out the wiring of the dash once I rebuilt the motor. ah well looks like the planned track day this sat will have to wait. I'll come back to you once I get a few hours to work on it. So hard during weekends with a little one and long hrs at work.

Yes there is a thick red wire going from the battery to the positive terminal of the starter but from the starter terminal there is just another wire that goes to the harness. No fuse on that wire? Also I've read many places refer to hazard light switch but my 72 Australian 240z never had hazards as far as I know. Is this possible?

Yes I also got the plug with the diode so the alternator is charging now. Seems to read a lot higher as the revs climb. Got a reading of 14.5V when I gave the throttle a rev. Looks like my brake lights are out too.....on both sides. It's so annoying. Don't think I'll make it to a track day this next sat with this issue. I used that awesome diagram SteveJ but didn't get very far. There was not interlink fuse from the battery to the starter motor and no white wire going into the harness. I found the flasher relay but wasn't sure how to test it.

I recently changed the head gasket on my motor and so had most of the big items in the engine bay removed. 72 240z. On getting it going again I broke down due to a flat battery and can remember the turn signals were still working at the time. At this point alternator wasn't charging anymore I guess. I charged the car up and drove at night where it rained heavily and almost broke down again due to flat battery and from then on my turn signals have stopped also. I'm really bad with electricals and have no idea where to start looking. I'm thinking it's probably best to get help on finding out why the alt has stopped charging. The alternator is only 1yr old and is the old external regulator type. As I initially thought it was faulty I've changed it now to the 280zx 70amp (internal regulator) one but still theres no charge with Voltage reading only 12.9V. Should I start by testing if there is power coming out of the alternator? I have an amp & volt meter. Thanks.

Any chance you can put up pics of how the other parts look in your engine bay?

Hi, how much did you pay for the alternator?

Hi would you mind sharing how the induction sounds is like now?.......

Would you believe I still don't have good pics of it yet.... I have a friend who helps me with the pink slip.

You guys are legends. I love you!!! . heres what I'm trying to get running.

Hi guys.....just wonder if the above is possible. I'm trying to save myself some time and have a running car whilst building another motor on the side. I've managed to damage a part of the valve stem retainer clip and just want to replace the top valve spring cap and the retainer clip. Any idea of there is a way of being able to do this whilst the cam is still on the head and the head is still on the block? Thanks.

could just make out P30? confused as ever: ENGINE DISPLACEMENT BLOCK CASTING CODE HEADS L24 (1970 240Z) 2.4 liter # E31 (flattop pistons) E31 L24 ('71-73 240Z) 2.4 liter # P30 (flattop pistons) E88 L26 ('74 260Z) 2.6 liter # P30 (flattop pistons) E88 L28 ('75-80 280Z/ZX) 2.8 liter # N42 (dished pistons) N42, N47 L28 ('81-83 280ZX) 2.8 liter # F54 (flattop/dished pistons, siamesed cylinders) P79, P90, P90a

Yeh block code is L24XXXXXX. I think.....hmmmm.