MKI4EVA

turned out to be a faulty relay $300 later......ouch.

thank you for being so kind and patient with a wiring newb.

Tested all the fuses they all seam to be fine. Not even sure what I'm meant to be looking for besides seems a mess of wires. Can someone tell me how I'm meant to test for an earth wire and positive wire using a multimeter? I know how to test for continuity now and obviously voltage......

I think the car is holding to my word that I would work out the wiring of the dash once I rebuilt the motor. ah well looks like the planned track day this sat will have to wait. I'll come back to you once I get a few hours to work on it. So hard during weekends with a little one and long hrs at work.

Yes there is a thick red wire going from the battery to the positive terminal of the starter but from the starter terminal there is just another wire that goes to the harness. No fuse on that wire? Also I've read many places refer to hazard light switch but my 72 Australian 240z never had hazards as far as I know. Is this possible?

Yes I also got the plug with the diode so the alternator is charging now. Seems to read a lot higher as the revs climb. Got a reading of 14.5V when I gave the throttle a rev. Looks like my brake lights are out too.....on both sides. It's so annoying. Don't think I'll make it to a track day this next sat with this issue. I used that awesome diagram SteveJ but didn't get very far. There was not interlink fuse from the battery to the starter motor and no white wire going into the harness. I found the flasher relay but wasn't sure how to test it.

I recently changed the head gasket on my motor and so had most of the big items in the engine bay removed. 72 240z. On getting it going again I broke down due to a flat battery and can remember the turn signals were still working at the time. At this point alternator wasn't charging anymore I guess. I charged the car up and drove at night where it rained heavily and almost broke down again due to flat battery and from then on my turn signals have stopped also. I'm really bad with electricals and have no idea where to start looking. I'm thinking it's probably best to get help on finding out why the alt has stopped charging. The alternator is only 1yr old and is the old external regulator type. As I initially thought it was faulty I've changed it now to the 280zx 70amp (internal regulator) one but still theres no charge with Voltage reading only 12.9V. Should I start by testing if there is power coming out of the alternator? I have an amp & volt meter. Thanks.

Any chance you can put up pics of how the other parts look in your engine bay?

Hi, how much did you pay for the alternator?

Hi would you mind sharing how the induction sounds is like now?.......

Would you believe I still don't have good pics of it yet.... I have a friend who helps me with the pink slip.

You guys are legends. I love you!!! . heres what I'm trying to get running.

Hi guys.....just wonder if the above is possible. I'm trying to save myself some time and have a running car whilst building another motor on the side. I've managed to damage a part of the valve stem retainer clip and just want to replace the top valve spring cap and the retainer clip. Any idea of there is a way of being able to do this whilst the cam is still on the head and the head is still on the block? Thanks.

could just make out P30? confused as ever: ENGINE DISPLACEMENT BLOCK CASTING CODE HEADS L24 (1970 240Z) 2.4 liter # E31 (flattop pistons) E31 L24 ('71-73 240Z) 2.4 liter # P30 (flattop pistons) E88 L26 ('74 260Z) 2.6 liter # P30 (flattop pistons) E88 L28 ('75-80 280Z/ZX) 2.8 liter # N42 (dished pistons) N42, N47 L28 ('81-83 280ZX) 2.8 liter # F54 (flattop/dished pistons, siamesed cylinders) P79, P90, P90a

Yeh block code is L24XXXXXX. I think.....hmmmm.

are you sure? I have P79 stamped on my pistons and it's definitely in a L24 block. Or am I missing something?

Pretty important item to replace but I'm not quite sure which is the correct gasket. Reason is I got an early L28 model one and it's nothing like the one already one the motor. Thanks in advance.

Went to get a leak down test done and after it was parked for 5 mins and restarted the dreaded white cloud came from the exhaust. It's definitely burning coolant and coming out of the exhaust as I can smell it. Will see what the cause is once I pull off the head tmrw.

I will do this and get back to you guys. Atm I suspect the head has a crack in one of the water jacket journals. I've just realised the milky oil maybe due to water from the catch can coming back into the crank case after a hard drive when the catch can was full of water.

looks like water is getting in somewhere. Seems to have power still but I got a mechanic to look at it and to my surprise creamy oil all in the cam cover. This motor only had about 15,000km on it too...... Motor build time. Thanks guys.

The valve cover pipe goes into the catch can, then theres the PCV hose that goes into the catch can as well. The catch can itself has a vented filter and a drain plug. But since the catch can isn't catching any oil I might vent the PCV to atmosphere.

The PCV valve was on, I just took it off to show the goo that was in there. Hmm maybe the oil catch can breather needs to be cleared out as that's the only part I haven't cleaned. It's just a cylindrical air filter.

Yeh I noticed this was happening some months ago after I first purchased the car. So the first thing I did was to change the oil. Oil colour looked fine and wasn't browny and there was no coolant in the oil as far as I can tell. I have not tried to see if there are bubbles in the rad as the car is warming up. I'll try that and get back to you. It's a 1971 and I may have exaggerated the oil catch can size - it's a big unit and i'll put up a pic shortly. I drive the car say 3-4 times a week and it would just be getting around town. They are quite short drives. The car was set up for track so it maybe just a case of being too cool for punting around town. I haven't pulled off the valve cover as yet. Dip stick seems fine in terms of the colour of oil coming out. Nice a black oil not a brown of any sorts. That pic is of the crank case and the hose is off the crank case. I run a pipe from the valve cover to the oil catch can and a exit hose from the oil catch can back into the crank case. I assume this is normal. Obviously there is a vent filter on the oil catch can itself. I'm going to run a radiator fluid chemical test this week and that should settle things. I have done a cylinder compression check on all 6 chambers and they all read consistent 170'ish PSI. It's a low comp motor with a mild cam so nothing special and is pulling roughly 150PS at the wheels (L26)

Hi Guys, I recently emptied out my oil catch can and to my surprise it had been collecting water. It would have easily been 2L of water. I also took the block breather hose out to have a look to see if the water was going back into the block and saw a large build up for white greasy froth build up. On touch it it's like greasy blubber fat looking and has a strong fuel smell. I assume the fuel smell is because my car is running rich and it maybe just the excess fuel running down the cylinder walls. As for the water I take it to be a collection of condensation as my car runs a large oil cooler without a thermostat sandwich plate. Anyhow my question is if anyone knows what the greasy froth build up is? or if it's damaging to oil supply to the motor. BTW pics where taken after a drive and motor had cooled down but still a little warm so it doesn't look like the substance melts away on heat.

Please continue with the updates. This is fantastic. Also how much was the kit?