73240z

What is the condition of the interior? Do you have a center console?

If you decide to part out the car, I would be very interested in some of the pieces. Namely the dash and center console.

No it's not mine. I found it looking for parts and pieces myself.

I have been checking around for new for my 73 240Z. I found some by Centerline in 15 & 16 inch that had the correct offset.

Wouldn't the additional log on (user name) administration create even more work you?

Headers don’t “make” horsepower – they simply relieve the engine from the task of shoving exhaust gases out through stock manifolds. Installing properly designed exhaust systems frees up any energy wasted pushing out exhaust, and allows it to be used in propelling the vehicle. This increase in efficiency can be thought of as “free horsepower.” Engines (especially those with emission controls) are designed to operate most efficiently with a designed amount of back pressure. I have had numerous mechanics tell me that headers won't do anything for you until you hit at least 5000 RPM, but I have never seen it in writing.

Try this item for sale at E-bay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1812101299&r=0&t=0

I always seem to have trouble with my 73 passing emissions. I try to set my carbs according to the procedure and then the HC are too high. My carbs probably need to to be overhauled, but I can't afford the Ztherapy treatment (translated: my wife says it too expensive). I recently purchased a ColorTune off the Internet for $40. Cute little toy that allows you to see into the combustion chamber. You then set the fuel/air mixture by the color of the flame. I am pretty tickled with it, and my Z passed emissions with plenty of room to spare.

You didn't say if you had completed a complete "tune-up" prior to your first emissions testing. It is important to have everything else in proper working order BEFORE attempting to adjust the carbs. This means checking plugs, points, wires and valve clearances. Did you balance the carbs before setting the mixture? Here is what emission test result indicate: CO tells about the ratio of fuel to air, basically richness or leanness. It doesn't necessarily tell us about how efficiently the mixture is being burned. HC tells how much of the available fuel was NOT burned. (High HC = sooty smoke) Low HC is good (no soot). High HC is the result of incomplete burning of the fuel mixture. High HC can result from anything causing incomplete combustion. O2 tells how much oxygen is left over, normally 1 to 2 percent. O2 emissions should be fairly stable until the air/fuel ratio goes above 14.7:1, then they rise quickly. That makes O2 a good indicator of a lean condition. CO2 is a measure of combustion efficiency. High CO2 is a good indication of combustion efficiency, and CO2 readings will peak when the air fuel ratio is at its highest efficiency.

I was told the reason you do not want to leave a shoulder on the needle is that it will require increasing the setting on the fuel mixture nut to accommodate the increased restriction in the nozzle. This increased setting will cause the carbs to then be too rich when you open the throttle (effectively changing the taper of the needle). Seems logical, but I can't prove it. I would think though you would causing some added wear to the needle and nozzle, thereby shortening their live.

I had a similar problem three years ago on my 73. It ended up being a bad condenser.

Out of curiosity, what make/model car are the seats out of?

Here is some info I copied off a page a few years ago. Paint Codes and Interior Colors 1970 Through 1976: 1970 and 71 Model Year Cars 901 Light Metallic Gray or Silver Metallic 903 Blue (till 8/71) 904 White (till 7/75) 905 Red (till 8/71) 907 Dark Green (till 8/71) 918 Orange 919 Yellow (till 8/71) 920 Gold (till 8/71) Added/Changed for 72/73 Model Year Cars 110 Red (from 9/71 on) 112 Yellow (from 9/71) (aka: Lime) 113 Green Metallic (from 9/71) (aka: Leaf Green / Avocado) 114 Bronze Metallic (from 9/71) (aka: coco / dark brown) 115 Blue Metallic (from 9/71) 260Z / 280Z Colors 215 White (from 8/75 on) 214 Dark Brown (from 8/73 - 7/76) 240 Green Metallic (from 8/75 on) 301 Brown Metallic (from 8/73) 302 Leaf Green Metallic (from 8/73) 303 Green Metallic (8/73 - 7/75) 304 Gold Metallic (8/73 - 7/75) 305 Light Blue Metallic (from 8/73) 306 Silver Metallic (from 8/73) 307 Blue Metallic (from 8/73) 362 Dark Purple Metallic (from 8/75) 517 Beige Metallic (from 8/76) (aka: Lt. Gold) 611 Wine Red Metallic (from 8/76) (aka: Burgundy) 901 Silver Metallic