Trudge

I purchased two brand new OEM Nissan fenders from my local dealer and paid $165.00 each. The parts manager is a personal friend and the president of our local club. He says they are true OEM. I don't know how they compare to the "Origianal OEM" but they fit perfectly. They came with all the normal Nissan stickers and part numbers. I had always heard that the diffrence between true OEM and aftermarket is that the aftermarket makers have to make subtle changes in the angles, corners, cutouts, etc; so they don't break any copyright laws. So how can you tell if you have the real thing? Steve, you can get your fender NEW from Nissan.

Here is a link to a 280Z fuel injection manual in electronic pdf format http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/efisystem/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf I hope this helps...

I'm about to start reassembly of my early 77Z and I need to purchase all the body rubber and seals. The list includes windshield, rear glass, quarter windows, door windows, doors, rear hatch, hood, and fenders ( inner and outer ) - literally every rubber seal and bumper for the body. Now, I know that there are probably others that I don't know about, but I do know that MSA, British Victoria, and Courtesy all have various OEM and after market parts. So, I am interested in hearing reviews from those who have actually used parts from those suppliers, and other suppliers as well, to include durability, quality, fit, and cost. It would be nice to see reviews on the complete kits also.

I found another "Rust Neutralizer" called "Rust Mortar" from SEM. It netralizes rust and leaves a Zinc Oxide type finish. Similar to Metal Ready from POR15. It has the same active ingedients as Metal Ready. It is relatively inexpensive and can be purchased from you local SEM dealer. However, I am not sure how good it is since I have not heard of anyone else using the product. I am planning to liberally spray it into unreachable areas such as the door sill, inside the lower fender wells, inside bottom of the doors, and the cowl area. It seems to do a good job neutralizing surface rust and is supposed to prevent rust. Anyone have any experience with this product?

I've completely stripped the floorpans and treated them with "Marine Clean", "Metal Ready", and "POR15", so I have some of the Metal ready left over. The Metal Ready product etches the metal and leaves a Zinc Oxide finish. I did the same thing on the Headlight buckets but I applied SEM Self Etching Primer instead of POR15. It sounds like I've been doing it right all along. I'll clean and prep the bare metal with "Metal Ready" and then spot prime with SEM Self Etching Primer. Thanks

I am preping my 77Z for a new paint job and in the process of sanding I have cut through the original paint and exposed bare metal in some places. What should I do to protect the bare metal from rusting. It will go to the paint shop in about a month for a Base Coat/ Clear Coat paint job. It is stored inside my garage. Thanks

Wow! EScanlon thanks a bunch. That explanation is what I was looking for. I'm a novice at body work but I'm getting better. I know what to do with bare sheet metal and fixing rust issues but I was unsure what to do with bare door hinges. That is a different kind of metal. This won't be a show car but it won't be a daily driver either. She'll go to local car shows, drive-ins, and ZCar events. She has been my daily driver for the past 8 years and has served me well, so its time for her to retire. She's getting all new paint, front and rear glass, rubber seals, updated interior, and modern suspension. She'll be as fun to drive as my 2001 Corvette Coupe.

Wow! EScanlon thanks a bunch. That explanation is what I was looking for. I'm a novice at body work but I'm getting better. I know what to do with bare sheet metal and fixing rust issues but I was unsure what to do with bare door hinges. That is a different kind of metal. This won't be a show car but it won't be a daily driver either. She'll go to local car shows, drive-ins, and ZCar events. She has been my daily driver for the past 8 years and has served me well, so its time for her to retire. She's getting all new paint, front and rear glass, rubber seals, updated interior, and modern suspension. She'll be as fun to drive as my 2001 Corvette Coupe.

Hey Fun_In_My_Z ! What the heck were you trying to say? :nervous: It sounds like the general consensus is to prep the hinges with Zero Rust and then attach them to the A-Pillar then topcoat the A-Pillar and Hinges with BC/CC. What about using ZeroRust on the A-Pillar where the hinges attach. I wonder if this would prevent rust between the hinges and A-Pillar.

I have removed and beed blasted my door hinges to get rid of old paint and rust. Now I am ready to paint them but I don't know how to prepare them for paint. I plan to paint the entire car including jambs with BC/CC ( Original Color = 411 Sunburst Yellow 77SE). http://zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary http://zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/411yellow.jpg Should I prime the hinges and if so what type primer should I use. Should I BC/CC the hinges as well?

I used a product from SEM called Rust Mortar. It does a real good job neutralizing rust and it puts an some kind of oxide finish on bare metal to avoid flash rust. Then I use the POR-15 3 step process to clean and then seal the rust and bare metal. To get to the rust inside the cross members I used a spray bottle with a red tube like the the one on a can of WD-40 and sprayed the RustMortar into the seat crossmember through any hole I could find. You could even drill small 1/8" holes if you like but you will be creating more bare metal if you do. Then I shot compressed air into the same holes hoping that all that air turbulance would help to distribute the RustMortar. After 24 hours I mixed up a 50/50 mixture of POR-15 and thinner and shot that mixture into the crossmember holes and then used the compressed air to blow it around inside the crossmember. Maybe this will give you some ideas. Good luck!