mjfawke

There's been some investigation done into this previously.... link

Try jacking your car into the air and see where the wheels point. They are supposed to stay pointing ahead (when modified), but I think you will find they toe in quite a bit. You will get the opposite under brakes, with the wheels toeing out. The stock geoemetry works O.K. with stock ride height - lowering the car moves it into a worse position on the bump-steer curve. The intention of Nissan was to get roll understeer, which normally comes from the rear suspension with live rear axle or semi-trailing arms. With the Z rear not providing any toe change, they built it into the front suspension instead.

Doh! Should have considered that it might be the P90. And you must be running one hell of a cam to be getting close to the pistons. Re. the springs - fatigue life is usually measured in cycles/hours of operation, and you would probably have to have regular X-Ray or penetrant die test to find the beginnings of the cracks - they do not sag just before they let go. What sort of springs are you running? I run an FIA 72 cam in my 260 2+2 (.490 lift), and the springs I used are supposed to be good up to around .550 lift. I can't remember the brand name, but they were purchased from SSS Automotive (now Stewart Wilkins Motorsport). Beyond .550 lift, the springs are supposed to be replaced regularly... Both my cars have modded front crossmembers, with the original hole welded up and the original 'washer' spot welded on where the new hole is (has to look factory). But the mod should not be for neg camber - the hole should be moved up by 19-21mm to remove the front bump steer, and a about 6mm out for neg camber and clearance. The top inner edge of the control arm needs to be ground back to clear the crossmember when the suspension is compressed. Try this mod - best handling change I ever made (until the coil over mod was done ).

Don't they care what you do after inspection? Here, you have to have an engineers report done and pass an inspection with the new driveline.

Mine would prefer I sold the car...

Full cage? Not street legal in the ACT - did you check the WA rules before fitting? Hmmm... E88 Injection skyline head. Supposed to be one of the best combustion chamber shapes. Don't sweat on taking more off the head, as they are usually safe up to around 2mm anyway. The cam towers were shimmed, weren't they? You would have to change lash pads if adding more shims. As for springs - replace the entire set now. If one has fatigued and broken, more are on their way. I know someone who lost an engine this way when a second spring broke and the valve got taken out when it floated. And what was the dodgy crossmember mod?

Love the project, Mull. You must be single - no wife/girfriend would put up with such a project (I have wife plus 4 children - I can't even get time to service the car, let alone restore it!). Have fun building the engine. A friend of mine has an R33 GTR Vspec-II, and another friend built an RB30DET engine for it - 320KW at the rear wheels on 1.2 bar boost on the factory computer and injectors. The Apexi computer and big injectors are being fitted this week. His other car is a 1970 240Z with a VG30DET motor, only 180KW at the wheels but tyre smoking torque, and insane fun for a Z ( I drove it one day and couldn't stop laughing!). You might want to consider traction control in your build... Edit : I've also noticed that the stock gearbox mounts are still in the tunnel... they will have to come out for the GTST gearbox.

The later driveshaft with 'staked' (not broached) uni-joints can be machined to allow the uni's to be removed, and can then fitted with early style uni's. Probably easier to find an earlier style driveshaft, however.