halz

When you ride in a group (even a small group), you are generally 10-15% faster than on your own. The group creates its own 'windless' riding environment and as long as the leaders are swapped regularly, a higher pace can be maintained than an individual on his own. Thats why you see the breakaway vs. peloton tactics everyday in the TDF...

A truly impressive performance - congratulations to Lance Armstrong (and the Discovery Channel team) on his 7th Tour De France victory.

Many will tell you that I'm a 'matching numbers' purist, so what I'm about to say will seem odd: It doesn't matter! The near proto-S30 age of this chassis overrides the fact that the original engine may be lost for all time. If the car is restored with an L20 engine (remember, this is a home-market car)and an appropriate documented history, it will still be a far more historic/desirable car than any later model with non-matching numbers.

The same force (time and tide) that created the twelve apostles takes them away too!

And the result?! What was the setup and tuning like? How much power have you got? Whats it like to drive?

Have a look at this thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15670&highlight=dyno

The W.A. 240Z and 260Z Register is about to become an incorporated club. This means we will be able to attend car show days and track days as we will have public liability insurance and (hopefully) CAMS affiliation. You can learn more about us at: www.wazcars.com. Come long to our monthly meetings and join the growing Western Australian Z-crowd!

Err, too late for the rust prevention goop I'm afraid! I wil do that after the body resto has been done... I'm going to take the trims to a local vinyl/auto trimmer/repair place along with some of the interior plastic peices which have also faded. They are able to mix and match new dye/paint, repair cracks and repaint. As my interior is Tan in colour (and I want to keep it original rather than black), I'll need professional help...

I'm planning to remove my door trims to have them refurbished. Removal will involve undoing the door lever, armrests etc (something I've not done before). Will I be able to leave the car in a driveable state while the trims are away being spruced up? ie, will I still be able to open, close, lock the door and drive the car without the trims?

Can's wait for the 2005 Goodwood DVD - hopefully there will be some action shots of Sam!

Who can recommend someone in Perth for this sort of work?

OK you lone-star zed-heads, I'm probebly going to pass through Houston in late August for work. While I'm there I thought it would be worth sniffing around for any hard-to-get Z-parts that I can take back home with me (to Australia). Is there a Z-specialist in the Houston area that would be worth visiting? I'm particularly thinking of things like rubber seals, badges, mirrors, bumper rubbers (small stuff mostly). Any ideas?

DBA is where Repco are sourcing their disks...might be worth approaching them direct. Thanks for the tip.

Ouch! I need to have my disks machined but I thought I'd check out the cost of replacing the whole rotor assembly (disk/hub) while I'm at it. The price from Repco in Western Australia is an eye-watering $203 each! I've replaced Holden disk rotors for about $30ea so this seems a little OTT to me... Can anyone suggest an alternative - one that doesn't require new calipers, or any special engineering work? Thanks, Hayden.

The storm was a good one. We had about 15 minutes of nearly constant lightning. On school that was badly damaged discovered that their piano was relocated onto their sports oval..!

W.A. is also an abbreviation for "Western Australia". In this case, it would be quite a long drive for you to attend this meeting pro240c, Is this an "Ozdat" meeting? Or a Datsun 510 meeting? Note that there is also a monthly meeting of the W.A. Z-register in Perth too (last Sunday of every month, www.wazcars.com)

Yep, they're the ones. I know that steel wheels are notorious for going out of round... Fortunately I do have self centreing lug nuts, so I hope the cure will last until I can affors some new alloy wheels!

Put me down for a copy too!

...A bit more to the above story.... I thought I had cured my problem but in actual fact I had just reduced it a little bit. The steering shake was still there at about 80km/h (50mph). My local mechanic rebalanced the wheels to no effect and also pronounced that the shocks, bearings, ball joints, steering rack and bushes were all in good shape... So what next? Well it turns out that having the wheels balanced on the car makes all the difference. The specialists in Subiaco who did the work said that they could see the whole front of the car vibrating wheen they ran the wheels up to speed! They balanced them on the car up to "speeds the car will never achieve!". The result is amazing - a complete transformation. Now I can enjoy driving it! The one thing to remember now is that if the wheels are ever removed then they should be replaced in the same stud position.

I would buy a RHD car in Australia. If you are coming from the US, take the opportunity to bring in as many rare parts as you can (interior trim, centre consoles, rubber seals etc.). The cost of these things really stings in Australia!

O for goodness sake! All F1 cars look nearly exactly the same (tusk-nosed williams of '04 was an exception) - its just the paint schemes that vary!

I have the same setup and wait with interest. Any before/after dyno charts would be good to...!

...and Brisbane's got the ..err, schoolies week thingo - and a windy river, yeh a river! They should run the F1 car through the harbour tunnel...on the roof!

Well I think I guessed that... Its just that there's a bit of a Melbourne v. Sydney rivalry thing going on...

Strange, they don't even have a F1 race in Sydney!