halz

If its not too rude, can I ask what you paid for it? I'm trying to get an idea of what the market is doing. The price for cars ranges from about $2K for a wheelbarrow full of rust with a 240z badge attached to low teens for a properly restored original. If you don't want to generally broadcast the info, you could email me at hayden.long@bhpbilliton.com... thanks. Also, you should post a pic or two of you car!:classic:

sure do - maybe he would have made it all-wheel-drive too!

Redline is usually set as a ceiling which can be reached for limited periods but generally not for continuous running. Racing engines are built with greater precision to allow for continuous running at high rpm (close to the danger zone). When you're certain that carburation, ignition, valves, cams and springs are all ok, the best thing you can do to enable safe high rpm running is to have the engine balanced.

My only experience with Delortos was on my Moto Guzzi bike which had a pair of 40mm ones. The trick to starting was about 4 twists on the throttle (and no choke). The carbs had accelerator pumps which gave a nice squirt of juice when ever they were snapped open! As for where do I get my parts... I'm a z-imposter here... I'm still looking for one! The one you bought almost fitted my criteria but it didn't have the original engine so (alas) it was out. Sounds nice though...:disappoin

Alfadog, if you've got it floored and your foot is off the clutch pedal then a slipping clutch will mean the revs will rise without the car accelerating as much as it should.

...I just saw your signature, it looks like the car I thought it was. I think it was originally 4-sale at $14k, sounds like a good one. :classic:

Hey ozlime,when did you get your Z? There was a lime green 240 for sale in Brisbane a little while ago with a 280 motor and dellorto carbs - did you buy that one?

OK, there's probably an Australian term for these but...what are the 'twice pipes' you guys keep mentioning? Are you talking about a dual exhaust?

Yep, his name was Albert Goertz. I believe he was also the designer behind the Toyota 2000GT and the original BMW 507 - both of which are very tasty looking cars.

(you will need a friend to help you). Turn the key to the start position and hold it there. Assuming the engine has not turned over, your friend (or whoever isn't holding the key in the start position) gives the solenoid a tap with a spanner or heavy screwdriver. This can help to jolt the solenoid into life. I've used this method on recalcitrant Corollas and Monaros, it should work on a 240Z. Of course its a pain in the backside but at least it will get you down to the auto parts shop (or your mate's house) for that replacement starter!

D'OH! He's gone and primed it... So much for the bare metal look! Hey, why don't you paint it in the orange and black "Super Samuri" colours?

Alfadog, a mate of mine may have a pic... I'll try to track it down.

I saw a P-40 Mustang fly over last Sunday - big slow revving V-12 with a brutish supercharger whine...tasty! So... you could clearcoat it, fit the brownings(?), longrange droptanks, airscoop for the blower, variable pitch prop... Ahhh hang on, this it a car we're talking about... Just stick with the clear coat, I saw a XK140 Jag that had it done and it looked fantastic!

Why not just clearcoat the brushed steel bodywork? Give it that old aircraft look..?

I'm interested in interrogating VIN# codes to find our whether its possible to tell if a car was orginally an auto or a manual. Where in the zcar.com site do I look for the VIN# code info?

Guys, Thanks for your replies. The changeover job is about what I'd expected and if I go ahead I'll be sure to have all parts on hand before starting. I'm still curious about the VIN# coding and transmission type and will continue to do my homework on that one. If I find out, I'll post the info for the benefit of all. Inerestingly, I looked at another 240 on the weekend... a very straight and honest car... shame about the colour, it is the Orange 918 and a bit faded. I'm going to scan the gallery pages to see if I can spot a car of the same colour but with a bit of polish..!

Thanks, small drill holes I can cope with and the mechanical work is no problem for me. (btw, car is a '72) Does anyone know about the compliance plate?

Or: "It was this or a Ferrari GTO - I made the right choice!"

How about: "I traded my E-type for the Z"

I'm currently looking at a very clean, original 240z to buy. One problem - its an auto. Now, I'm fussy. Up until now I've not countenanced anything as traumatic as transmission conversion due to the impact it would have on a car's originality . However, original cars are very thin on the ground... so I have a few questions: 1. Does the 240Z compliance plate indicate which transmission it was originally built with? If so, what do I look for? 2. Does an auto-2manual swap involve any irreversible work - eg. cutting the floor-pan? If I can be convinced that this operation will not significantly devalue an original-condition car, and that the swap can be competed to a factory-level of quality, then I may be able to live with myself . On the plus side, being an auto, the car has not had the thrashing during its life that many manuals have :classic:

You lucky, lucky b-!

Hey Aussie240, It looks like there are a few downunder members of this z club. I've been on the hunt for a 240 for about 6 months (my standards are high!). I recently discovered a great Australian site for parts and cars at http://www.ozdat.com. Check it out, there's a nice orange 1972 for sale at the moment in NSW (pricey at $12k but you could knock him down I'm sure). I ruled it out because it had been converted from auto to manual and I'm a bit (lot!) of an originality fanatic. In fact... when I spoke to the guy he said that he'd just put minilites on the car so there you go. Just to whet your appetite, here's a pic (with the old hotwire mags) Good luck and let us know if you find a car (I'll be jealous!)

Yep, I thought the wheels were minilites too - they really suit the 240z. Actually, the wheels on the trailer don't look too bad either! If that car is for sale in Australia I'd buy it in a shot!

I've gotta agree with HS30, good chrome (especially on a dark coloured car) really stops it from looking like a shadowy blob. Keep the chrome!

A supplier in Australia would be good...